RESTO NEED HELP/ADVICE 1999 sea doo gsx ltd

[briansimpson829]

I just purchased my first jet ski for 150$ it fires right up and runs good, the guy said it could use a wear ring because it’s a little sluggish until it’s gets moving a little bit. So I pull the jet pump off and see something that doesn’t look normal to me. Need opinions and advice as to whether or not this is normal, if it isn’t normal what should I do about it or will it affect it any at all? I’ve not had it in the water as it is still cold here in North Carolina.

 

[briansimpson829]

 

[Matt Braley]

Yes that's not right someone did a terrible thing in there. Good used parts are very reasonable though and you got a great deal on a great model. Your wear ring might be OK because what I'm seeing will definitely cause cavitation. The impeller boot is on the shaft backwards also. It's from a Solas so you may have an aftermarket impeller.

 

[GGuillot]

I just purchased my first jet ski for 150$ View attachment 39322it fires right up and runs good, the guy said it could use a wear ring because it’s a little sluggish until it’s gets moving a little bit. So I pull the jet pump off and see something that doesn’t look normal to me. Need opinions and advice as to whether or not this is normal, if it isn’t normal what should I do about it or will it affect it any at all? I’ve not had it in the water as it is still cold here in North Carolina.View attachment 39321

I'm restoring a GSX at the moment and did some gelcoat work on the bottom, I can tell you this for certain, judging from the pics, you'll need at least the wedge and possibly the hull plate. To change the wedge both the ride plate and hull plate need to come out, you'll need to remove the ride plate first, 6 bolts (13mm) holding it on, remove the grate first 2 bolts (10mm). To me it looks like you need the hull plate also, unbolt the 4 15mm nuts inside the hull, then carefully pry it off the hull. I used a tube of black silicon II made by GE from Home Depot to reinstall the hull plate, wedge and ride plate. Then you may need to recheck the jet pump alignment.

Your first step is to find the parts, someone has a bare hull sitting around with those parts still attached. May want to contact https://www.westsidepowersports.com and see what they have.

 

[briansimpson829]

I'm restoring a GSX at the moment and did some gelcoat work on the bottom, I can tell you this for certain, judging from the pics, you'll need at least the wedge and possibly the hull plate. To change the wedge both the ride plate and hull plate need to come out, you'll need to remove the ride plate first, 6 bolts (13mm) holding it on, remove the grate first 2 bolts (10mm). To me it looks like you need the hull plate also, unbolt the 4 15mm nuts inside the hull, then carefully pry it off the hull. I used a tube of black silicon II made by GE from Home Depot to reinstall the hull plate, wedge and ride plate. Then you may need to recheck the jet pump alignment.

Your first step is to find the parts, someone has a bare hull sitting around with those parts still attached. May want to contact


Thanks. I have come to the conclusion that it’s just the shoe which is what I assume you’re calling a wedge? But I’m getting a new shoe and pump support

 

[briansimpson829]

Also if you know where any good write ups with pictures are on how to replace the pump support bracket and shoe that’d be great!

 

[mikidymac]

On your model there is just the pump support bracket as the "shoe" is integrated into it. Here is the part number 271000954 but it is discontinued through seadoo. You will need to remove your old one but be very careful removing it because there should be alignment shims behind it, you need to note exactly where they go and keep them separate and reuse them on the new plate. You will probably need a new pump seal ring number 293200051.

You also need a new VTS boot as someone just covered it with silicone.

It looks like whoever worked on it before was a hack mechanic so check everything.
I would also check the carbs, fuel and oil system before you even think about putting it in the water.

If you can't find a new old stock plate contact Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports Seadoo for a clean used one.

 

[briansimpson829]

On your model there is just the pump support bracket as the "shoe" is integrated into it. Here is the part number 271000954 but it is discontinued through seadoo. You will need to remove your old one but be very careful removing it because there should be alignment shims behind it, you need to note exactly where they go and keep them separate and reuse them on the new plate. You will probably need a new pump seal ring number 293200051.

You also need a new VTS boot as someone just covered it with silicone.

It looks like whoever worked on it before was a hack mechanic so check everything.
I would also check the carbs, fuel and oil system before you even think about putting it in the water.

If you can't find a new old stock plate contact Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports Seadoo for a clean used one.

Thing runs really good, it’s 30 degrees here and I hit the start button and it fires right up. I’m going to get what it needs as I only have 150 in it. I’m currently trying to “polish a turd”

 

[mikidymac]

Thing runs really good, it’s 30 degrees here and I hit the start button and it fires right up. I’m going to get what it needs as I only have 150 in it. I’m currently trying to “polish a turd”

Running on the trailer will tell you absolutely nothing other than it starts.

The 951 in your ski is a very high strung engine and lean from the factory for emissions. As you can guess "lean" and 2-stroke are a dangerous combination. Any flaw in the fuel system on your model will melt the engine down. Only the correct 100% synthetic API-TC oil and a perfectly clean fuel system will keep it going. After seeing the pump hack I can tell you the owner didn't maintain this ski correctly.

So you spent $150 now spend another $150 on the fuel and oil system and have a fast, reliable ski for $300. You have been warned about the fuel system.

 

[briansimpson829]

Running on the trailer will tell you absolutely nothing other than it starts.

The 951 in your ski is a very high strung engine and lean from the factory for emissions. As you can guess "lean" and 2-stroke are a dangerous combination. Any flaw in the fuel system on your model will melt the engine down. Only the correct 100% synthetic API-TC oil and a perfectly clean fuel system will keep it going. After seeing the pump hack I can tell you the owner didn't maintain this ski correctly.

So you spent $150 now spend another $150 on the fuel and oil system and have a fast, reliable ski for $300. You have been warned about the fuel system.

Speaking of that that’s another thing, the oil injection system is bypassed, so I was thinking a 40:1 mixture of dominator or castor 927. I’ve road dirtbikes my whole life and am a mechanic. This may be my first ski but I’m learning quick and don’t think there’s much over my head. Haha but your input is very much appreciated!

 

[briansimpson829]

Speaking of that that’s another thing, the oil injection system is bypassed, so I was thinking a 40:1 mixture of dominator or castor 927. I’ve road dirtbikes my whole life and am a mechanic. This may be my first ski but I’m learning quick and don’t think there’s much over my head. Haha but your input is very much appreciated!

And I totally agree. It was just rode and put away. Like I said I only have 150$ in it so I don’t mind to put another 5-600 in it to get it right and keep it right

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure they bypassed the oil injection correctly. The fittings on the intake manifold should be capped correctly and the oil pump should be blocked off or at least the plastic drive in the MAG cover should be removed.

In all honesty the seadoo oil injection system is so reliable that I never recommend removing it but on all other brands, Kawasaki, Polaris and Yamaha it is the first thing I remove. The seadoo system only needs the correct oil, filter changes and the little 3/32" oil lines replaced every 10 years. It really is that good and will save you a ton in oil costs.

But to answer your question, No 927 as it is not a marine oil and will gum up your power valves, also no Dominator, Super M or anything that says TCW-2. The oil for this ski has to be Full synthetic API-TC oil only. If you want to use Amsoil use Interceptor ore the seadoo XPS is just as good. FOr premix you will be fine at 40:1 unless you will be riding long distances at WOT then go 32:1.

 

[briansimpson829]

Make sure they bypassed the oil injection correctly. The fittings on the intake manifold should be capped correctly and the oil pump should be blocked off or at least the plastic drive in the MAG cover should be removed.

In all honesty the seadoo oil injection system is so reliable that I never recommend removing it but on all other brands, Kawasaki, Polaris and Yamaha it is the first thing I remove. The seadoo system only needs the correct oil, filter changes and the little 3/32" oil lines replaced every 10 years. It really is that good and will save you a ton in oil costs.

But to answer your question, No 927 as it is not a marine oil and will gum up your power valves, also no Dominator, Super M or anything that says TCW-2. The oil for this ski has to be Full synthetic API-TC oil only. If you want to use Amsoil use Interceptor ore the seadoo XPS is just as good. FOr premix you will be fine at 40:1 unless you will be riding long distances at WOT then go 32:1.

I’ll probably just have it on the lake playing around! No really long distance stuff. This thing has already come a long ways!

Here is what it looked like when I bought it (2 days ago)

And now after a few hours buffing on it

 

[GGuillot]

Also if you know where any good write ups with pictures are on how to replace the pump support bracket and shoe that’d be great!

The good write ups are right here, just follow the steps of unbolting the ride plate, grate, hull plate and then gently pry the thing off. Pay attention to the shims and put them back where they were. Seal it back up, see what I used on the above response doing this on two different skis, then check the jet pump alignment.

You still did good paying only $150 but gotta love the previous owner telling you, "it just needs a wear ring". What a jerk...

 

[briansimpson829]

The good write ups are right here, just follow the steps of unbolting the ride plate, grate, hull plate and then gently pry the thing off. Pay attention to the shims and put them back where they were. Seal it back up, see what I used on the above response doing this on two different skis, then check the jet pump alignment.

You still did good paying only $150 but gotta love the previous owner telling you, "it just needs a wear ring". What a jerk...

Yeah that’s true, but I hoped for the best and expected the worst. Idk what they go for but when it’s said and done I think I’ll have around 600 in it to have it worthy to put on the water and new tires on the trailer, but I think at 600 I’ll still be sitting pretty good value wise! And it’ll be a bunch of fun this summer for me and my girlfriend! A big upgrade from the kayaks lol, but I’ll still put my kayak on the water for some fishing!

 

[mikidymac]

Once cleaned up it should be a $1,55-$2,000 ski.

For sealant, follow the manual, either Permatex "The Right Stuff" Or Ultra Black RTV.

 

[briansimpson829]

Once cleaned up it should be a $1,55-$2,000 ski.

For sealant, follow the manual, either Permatex "The Right Stuff" Or Ultra Black RTV.

Will do. I’m gonna need o rings too because they just used silicone and black rtv on everything! Also gonna get a new impeller and wear ring. As of right now what I think it needs to be put on the water are a new impeller and wear ring, and a new pump support which is $306 I’ll attach some pictures below

 

[briansimpson829]

Someone try to shim this?

 

[mikidymac]

Not that I can see?

Remove the rubber ring on the outside. Hard to tell with all the silicone.

 

[briansimpson829]

Not that I can see?

Remove the rubber ring on the outside. Hard to tell with all the silicone.

I’m talking about the little wire between wear ring and pump housing

 

[etemplet]

I think the same that worked on your ski did some maintenance on the 2003 GTI I bought. I sure agree with Miki.. check everything. You can follow incompetance like a snail trail. Their butchery is everywhere. Check and double check the ski. You do some good polishing there. Nice ski !!

 

[briansimpson829]

I think the same that worked on your ski did some maintenance on the 2003 GTI I bought. I sure agree with Miki.. check everything. You can follow incompetance like a snail trail. Their butchery is everywhere. Check and double check the ski. You do some good polishing there. Nice ski !!View attachment 39347

Thank you! And yeah when I get time I will check over everything!

 

[etemplet]

Brian make sure those o-rings you get are the correct part. I think those are not just regular orings but grommets. I don't have a picture so.... here ya go. Get the correct ones. You'll need 3.

WATERTIGHT SEAL Part No. 293250084

Seadoo/Sea Doo Watercraft Genuine OEM Parts Watertight Seal 293250084 | eBay

 

[briansimpson829]

Brian make sure those o-rings you get are the correct part. I think those are not just regular orings but grommets. I might have a picture.

I picture and or power numbers would be great. I may be on here when all of my stuff comes in for a more detailed write up and help on where exactly all those go and what not

 

[etemplet]

Yes I'll be interested in seeing how changing that plate works out for you. I'd definitely check the engine alignment while you got that apart and to make sure it is correct going back together. I'm not expert by a long shot but I"ve been wrestled a few lately.