Need diagnosis on '96 XP VTS

[Powell Junkie]

VTS on '96 XP wasn't working. Removed VTS housing, opened box, motor was very corroded. Removed motor, replaced with tested working motor, replaced blown 7.5 amp fuse in rear electrical box, and nothing.....only a "click" when depressing either up or down VTS switch.

OK.....so figure it must be VTS housing.

Find brand new VTS housing, install motor, connect cables. Same result. "Click" when depressing either up or down VTS button; worm drive not turning.

What am I failing to check here?

 

[timmyboy76]

check to see if nozzle assy aint hung up...

 

[Powell Junkie]

The nozzle assembly is not on the boat; so that's not the problem. I have the VTS housing only with the worm drive rod; was looking for that to spin, but nothing.

 

[kustomkarl]

Check out this link on the VTS;
Step A, Testing the Power Circuit and Limit Switches:

A-1. Disconnect all of the wiring from your VTS box. You do not need to remove the box from the boat. There are connector plugs on the wires that come out of the VTS box. The wires are quite long and the connectors are located in the front of the boat under the cargo compartment. Unplug both of them (3 on SPX and some XP models). Set your multimeter to the ohms setting. Be sure to connect your meter to the connectors (plugs) that go to the VTS box, not to the ones that go back to the boat s wiring harness. Connect one lead of the meter to the black wire on the connector that has three wires. Connect the other meter lead to the red wire. The meter should indicate infinite resistance between these wires. A defective unit will typically read 180 ohms or less. If the reading is less than 10,000 ohms the box should be replaced. At 10,000 ohms the VTS will be draining the battery at one milliamp ALL THE TIME, even though the lanyard is removed. Less than 10,000 ohms will mean that the battery is running down even faster. 180 ohms will run the battery down in a few weeks or less if the boat is not operated.


Worm Screw Spin this to move trim.

A-2. Make sure that the trim system is not full up or full down. You may have to remove the motor and spin the screw with your fingers to get the trim to about mid point. Again with the multimeter set to ohms, connect the multimeter to the black and purple wires going to the VTS box. Put the red meter lead (+) on the purple wire. Put the black meter lead (-) on the black wire. The resistance should be 10,000 ohms, +/_20%. A very low resistance could cause a burnout of the boat s computer module. A high resistance indicates that the VTS box will probably not work. A resistance of about 6.7 K ohm or 3.3 K ohms indicates that one or both of the magnetic limit switches are stuck (failed) in the on position.

Sliding Shaft w/worm removed. You can slide this to move trim up
and down.

A-3. Now you can test the operation of the full up and full down magnetic limit switches. Connect the multimeter to the black and purple wires like you did in step A-2 above. Move the trim rod (sliding shaft) to the full forward position. The resistance between the purple and black wires should drop from 10 K ohm to about 6.7 K ohm. You should be able to move the trim rod back to where it is not quite at full forward and the resistance should go back to 10 K ohm. Likewise when you move the trim rod to the full aft position, the resistance should drop from 10 K ohm to 6.7 k ohm. This test tells you if the two magnetic switches are working. These switches stop the motor from running when you reach full up or full down. Their proper operation is critical to the reliability of the VTS. If they fail to close when your trim reaches full up or full down you will have an overtravel situation probably blow the 7.5 amp fuse if you are lucky. If one of the switches sticks closed then your trim will only operate in one direction until the end of travel is reached and then the motor will stop. If you are not lucky, other bad things could happen.



I hope this is the test your looking for.

Karl

 

[Powell Junkie]

Help me with the A-1 test.....you are referring to checking resistance between wires of the 3 connections that lead from the VTS module to front of ski. My connectors have the following colored wires:
3 wire connector: blue, black, green
2 wire connector: brown, brown w/ white stripe
1 wire connector: purple w/ white stripe

You say to connect between black and red. By red, do you mean purple, or do you mean a red wire elsewhere in the ski?

 

[Powell Junkie]

I am still having issues with the VTS.

I purchased a new VTS unit from SeaDoo, and a used motor from a local guy who builds race skis for his son.

The motor works fine when connected directly to a battery; moves the worm drive in and out.

All of the resistances mentioned above seem to check out with the VTS unit wiring.

When I depress the trim button, either up or down, I hear a "click" in the VTS unit, but the motor doesn't operate. It does not appear that I am getting a voltage reading out of the wires FROM the VTS TO the motor when depressing the trim button. All of the fuses, both in rear black box and in front gray box are intact.

Is it possible that SeaDoo sent me a bad VTS unit? Or could the motor, which operates fine when attached directly to a battery, be drawing too many amps and there may not be enough juice to operate it? Or am I overlooking something else?

Thanks in advance.