need advice replacing oil injector lines 1995 speedster

[danielg5]

Hello. I just acquired a 1995 Speedster. The previous owner had had the oil injector lines replaced on the starboard engine, but they badly need to be replaced on th port engine.

I would appreciate any advice or insight into the process that any of the members of this forum can provide, including the best way to access the pump and fittings in the very tight space under the carbs. I have removed the breather cover, but it is still tight. Additionally, the current lines are crimped onto the fittings at either end, so if you have a good suggestion as to how to remove those, I would appreciate th advice.

Finally, I would be interested to know your experiences with bleeding the lines once they are reconnected.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

[bigJake]

can't help you with the access part as I have skis, but I easily got the crimp clamps off with the 90 degree pick from this set
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

just open the bleed screw til oil comes out, close it then with the engine running at idle, manually hold the pump wide open and the injector lines should fill in a few seconds. don't go past snug on the bleed screw, it WILL snap off.

 

[LouDoo]

On your boat the oil pump is located under the carbs., do yourself a favor and go ahead and remove the carbs., it will be well worth the effort, you don't even have to remove the cables, just lay the carburetors in the hull. Use 3/32" tygon fuel line, I get it at ACE Hardware and use cable ties instead of clamps.

Change the oil filter and bleed to the pump like Jake suggested, this is where I do it a little different. Remove the spark plugs and ground the caps, turn the fuel valve off. Turn the motor over while holding the pump open and bleed the injector lines, don't run the starter for more than 20 seconds, you will see the oil in the lines and pump through the injectors.

Check the alignment mark on the oil pump arm with the mark on the oil pump post, it probably won't change since you didn't remove the cable.

Lou

 

[danielg5]

First, thanks for the advice.

Second, the lever on my oil pump is different from the illustration in the shop manual. It is pointed up and appears to turn clockwise with the throttle cable engaged. In the shop manual, it is the opposite (pointing down, turns counter-clockwise to open). Should I be concerned about this? Has someone installed this thing backwards? There is oil in the injection lines.

I have removed the carburetor from the block,but it is still connected to the block with one short hose. This doesn't allow me to set it aside. I can move it around for slightly better access, but it is clamped on to the engine with that hose.

I tried Ace Hardware, and they don't have tygon at my location. I read that hobby shops may have it.

I also read in another forum post to use cable ties to secure these lines. Is that a good idea?

Thanks

 

[bigJake]

any place around you that does repairs on lawnmowers, chainsaws, weedeaters, etc will have the tygon line

don't know if it is possible tp put the pump in backward.

umm, there won't be oil in the injector lines after you replace them

zip ties are ok.

where the injector lines connect to the intake, there are check valves, blow some air thry there to make sure they are clear while you have everything apart.

 

[Guest_User]

McMaster Carr...

6614K51 Smooth Body Nylon Cable Tie, 3-5/8"l,5/8" Bundle Dia, 18# Tensile Strg,uv Black

6614K62 Smooth Body Nylon Cable Tie, 5-1/2"l,1-1/8"bundle Dia,30# Tensile Strg,uv Black

6614K53 Smooth Body Nylon Cable Tie, 7-5/16"l,1-3/4"bundle Dia,50#tensile Strg,uv Black

5552K22 Fuel and Lubricant Yellow Tygon PVC Tubing 3/32" ID


you can get several sizes of tygon, and these are the metal tang zip ties... they hold tight...

 

[danielg5]

don't know if it is possible tp put the pump in backward........where the injector lines connect to the intake, there are check valves, blow some air thry there to make sure they are clear while you have everything apart.

Thanks! I figured out the pump lever issue. It was un-wound from the springloaded position. I spun it back fully around counter-clockwise, and it is now positioned correctly and springloaded again. I am concerned that in the position it was in, the oil was not getting to the engine, but there was oil in the previous lines, so hopefully it was getting some. It runs pretty smoothly.

I checked the lines, and they are clear.

 

[Guest_User]

Thanks! I figured out the pump lever issue. It was un-wound from the springloaded position. I spun it back fully around counter-clockwise, and it is now positioned correctly and springloaded again. I am concerned that in the position it was in, the oil was not getting to the engine, but there was oil in the previous lines, so hopefully it was getting some. It runs pretty smoothly.

I checked the lines, and they are clear.

when a cable snaps and the spring unwinds the wheel/lever will default to wide open. this was a designed fail safe. providing the oil pump was in good working order and not rusted or stuck in any one position.

 

[LouDoo]

I don't have a service manual for your boat, but I think in this case the manual is wrong. Any oil pump that I have seen for a 717 or smaller the arm is at 12:00 and is pulled clockwise, I'm going from memory and I'll double check when I get home.

Lou

 

[Guest_User]

this is for a 96-97, shop service manual link...

http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/JETBOATS/1996-1997/JBOAT_A/1996/LMRV1_A.PDF

 

[danielg5]

Thanks for all the responses. I have one more for you all:

I took LouDoo's advice and removed the spark plugs and shut off the gas. I had my son crank the ignition while I held the oil pump lever open and watched to see the oil advance. It advanced pretty quickly through the forward line but took a little longer in the aft line. Also, It would move forward for a couple of seconds then seem to stop. So, I would have him stop cranking then start again. As soon as he started cranking, it would advance again them seem to stop. After a few times of this, it made it into the engine block with no bubbles. Since the oil did advance throught the line, am I good, or should I be worried about this stopping and starting from the pump in the aft line?

Thanks

 

[LouDoo]

It sounds like you're good to go. Congrats.

Lou

 

[danielg5]

So, one more question:

If I am concerned about enough lubrication being in the engine immediately, would putting a little oil into the carburetor or directly into the cylinders bofore closing it all back up be advisable or would you advise against it?

Thanks

 

[LouDoo]

Your point is well taken, that's exactly why I bleed the lines using the starter instead of the way the manual says, so I don't think it's necessary.

Lou