Necessary to dry start after being on water all day?

[Gordynk]

Quick question, I see a lot of guys after they load up their runnner's out of the water pull over and dry start them to I guess flush some of the remaining water out...my question to you is that necessary to do? I have never done it, but making sure it isn't something I should consider?

Thank you
Gordy

 

[JJinSC]

Well some here are proponents of doing so. But I can tell you that I have had mine for 18 years and have never done it (fresh water only) and have never had any issue. You can never really get all of the water out anyways. Some water stays in the waterbox no matter how hard you blip the throttle on dry land. To me things rust worse in open air untreated. So you would actually be better off fogging after each use.


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[mikidymac]

We all have out own routines as JJ said.

I like to start it on the ramp out of the water and blip the throttle a few times to force any remaining water out of the pipe, cooling system and water box. And pull drain plugs. Some will stay but the more out the better.

Then when I get home they get fogged every time.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Not crucial, but it does help clear what will be sitting water in the raw water cooling system as well as the exhaust. For me, i'd rather it be dry and not sitting water.


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[Apeman]

Hey Miki,
When you perform your fog after use:
1) Do you use any special fogging spray?
2) Do you fog till the engine chokes, as in fall storage, or just a certain amount?
3) Any different between RFI versus Carb regarding procedure?
4) I'm freshwater only, still a good idea to fog, for water displacement purposes?
5) Will I need to clean the plugs periodically if I start doing this? (I don't get a chance to ride much, 1-2 times per month)
Sorry if this has all been covered in other threads. If you know of them, feel free to tell me where to go...

-az-
(BTW, they are always trailered, never left floating)

 

[AdamXP800]

Not necessary but I HIGHLY recommend doing it



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

 

[Dr Honda]

I do it. But not 100% necessary.

 

[mikidymac]

Hey Miki,
When you perform your fog after use:
1) Do you use any special fogging spray?
2) Do you fog till the engine chokes, as in fall storage, or just a certain amount?
3) Any different between RFI versus Carb regarding procedure?
4) I'm freshwater only, still a good idea to fog, for water displacement purposes?
5) Will I need to clean the plugs periodically if I start doing this? (I don't get a chance to ride much, 1-2 times per month)
Sorry if this has all been covered in other threads. If you know of them, feel free to tell me where to go...

-az-
(BTW, they are always trailered, never left floating)

I use Klotz FogOn but just because it smells awesome but any brand will do. I pull the top of the airbox off to make less of a mess and just spray it long enough to see smoke out of the exhaust and then do a quick spray down each sparkplug hole (remember to ground the plug wires) then bump it over once or twice. Then reinstall plugs and done.
No clue on the RFI or DI, never owned one.
I always run in fresh and do it every time. I have seen many fresh water skis that have been sitting with surface rust on the cylinders.
I have never had a problem with fouled plugs, it just smokes a little more at first startup the next time.

If you only ride 1-2 times a month I would do it every time.

Honestly it takes me less than 10 minutes to fog and pull the battery to sit on the tender.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

We used to have many years ago, a 1995 seadoo and I don't recall ever running it after removing from water. But I think we did. I also don't recall ever fogging it, except maybe for winter I'm sure it may or may not have been fogged.

I fog my 951 seadoo and I dry start it after removing from water. I fog until I see a good bit of smoke, when I don't plan on using it for a weak or more.

And I prefer to use fogging oil for this but TCW3 mineral works great, I''ve got a bunch of it people leave here often for some reason so that's what I'm using, it's cheap and made for corrosion resistance in outboards.

I recommend not using any kind of synthetic oil for fogging unless it's specifically made for fogging and says so on the label, I can explain why if you really need me to.

DI and RFI need fogging too, or if you prefer you can squirt some oil into the plug holes and turn the motor over a few revolutions to distribute the oil over the iron cylinder walls. Make sure there's enough to wet the walls or they'll rust.

I just fog through the carbs till there's smoke, my analysis by examining the plugs afterwards is sufficient to convince me this practice puts a good coat of oil on the cylinder walls b/c the spark plug is wetted with oil when doing this.

 

[jammin777]

I've always dry started after taking out of lake or after flushing to remove excess water from he exhaust.

 

[Joshualmarley]

I also start the machine out of the water but I made a little device to blow air through the flush out hole in the back of the ski with my compressor once I get home. It works great and takes all of 30 seconds


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[Prime Target]

I've always done it. I'd rather have less water in the pipe.

 

[tkarvelis]

Hmm learned something today. I watched someone do that on his seadoos yeaterday and i was wondering what he was doing. Now I know

 

[Bonmotwang]

I have never successfully fogged the engine through carbs. The fogging oil just cannot be sucked into the engine. Or takes too long to leave the engine on.
What I have been doing is: spray to the spark plug holes for 15 seconds each and turn over by hand a few times, then start the engine for about 5 seconds and a lot of white smoke comes out.
I guess it is doing the same thing?


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[soccerdad]

I have never successfully fogged the engine through carbs. The fogging oil just cannot be sucked into the engine. Or takes too long to leave the engine on.
What I have been doing is: spray to the spark plug holes for 15 seconds each and turn over by hand a few times, then start the engine for about 5 seconds and a lot of white smoke comes out.
I guess it is doing the same thing?


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But that does not really lube the lower end. Not sure if it needs it as much, but in a two stroke, it come in the lower end, up the transfer ports to the top. So you really need to send it in through the carbs to get everything lubed.

 

[Apeman]

Tried it on the 787 RFI, and the Old Yeller 587 last weekend.
Sprayed while idling till blue/whote smoke appears in the exhaust, and shut her off.
Easy.
-az-

 

[Coastiejoe]

My small 2-stroke engines have run for as long as I owned them. All I have ever done is remove the sir cleaner, start the motor, spray full force fogging oil into the intake/carb, once it starts to smoke shut it down.

This coats the carbs and pretty much the complete internal and the cyclinder walls of the engine.

 

[Bonmotwang]

So the metal mesh has to come off right?


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[96spxpos]

[MENTION=68537]Bonmotwang[/MENTION] , there is a little black buttplug on the top of the airbox, that comes out, and if you have a spray tube on your fogging oil can, you can just rotate it generously throughout and itll absorb into the metal mesh flame arrestor and down into the carbs...
I personally only spray a bit down there (for lower end, like others above said) and I do a majority of my fogging thru the spark plug holes.. I take my plugs out after each ride anyway to check them AND to clean them up.. so to also make sure I've got maximum protection, after I fog the plug holes, rotate the PTO by hand a few times to properly coat the cylinder walls, then I put the plugs back in and I DONT start it, as I prefer not to burn ANY of the fogging oil until the next time I go out, which makes huge plumes when first started.. I know other people have other ways of doing things, but for me, living in between the bay and the gulf (only a few hundred yards between both) I need ALL the protection I can get from this damn salt water air...even WITH a cover on AND being inside the hull... this air down here is relentless.

 

[98GCLimited]

So the metal mesh has to come off right?


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No, dont remove the metal mesh.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I have never successfully fogged the engine through carbs. The fogging oil just cannot be sucked into the engine. Or takes too long to leave the engine on.
What I have been doing is: spray to the spark plug holes for 15 seconds each and turn over by hand a few times, then start the engine for about 5 seconds and a lot of white smoke comes out.
I guess it is doing the same thing?


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Yes, it's the same thing. And probably just spraying the aerosol can into the carbs without getting a huge plumb of smoke is good enough for short storage periods (a couple weeks up to a month).

What I do is buy my fogging oil by the gallon and pour it into a squirt bottle. The reason is, many of the aerosol cans don't deliver enough volume to get a heavy fog going like we need for winter storage If winter fogging is done correctly, the plugs will be wet with oil and you'll have a huge cloud of smoke. This will wet the plugs ( with oil) then everything else is coated too. If you do this regularly, the plugs will foul pretty quickly, this is why we start the season with new plugs (they were likely fouled from winter fogging).

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

[MENTION=68537]even WITH a cover on AND being inside the hull... this air down here is relentless.

You sure got that right, it's no exaggeration. I can always tell a boat that was run in salt, even if it was just a short time like about a week.

I spent 2 hours prying a stern drive off a boat just today, I could tell it had been run lightly in salt and the drive hadn't been off in half a decade or more b/c it was stuck on there but good. The driveshaft splines were stuck in the PTO with dried out grease and some rust.

For salt, we always recommend winter storing sterndrive boats with the drive removed.

 

[Luv2Camp]

I start after each use to get the water out. I do fog each time but only squirt in the spark plug holes and with the plug wires on the grounding post I turn It over a few times. I am fresh water and really not worried about fogging the lower end between uses but rather to coat the cylinder walls to stop any moisture left on the exhaust side from starting to rust. Previous owner never fogged except for winterizing and it was almost 17 years old when I bought it. But with the rebuilt motor I have decided to care a little more for her

 

[benjilafouine]

Now I am going to sound stupid for most of you but English is not my mother tongue and although I am very good at it, some expressions just elude me. Fogging in one of them.

Winterizing an marine engine is one thing we need in Canada (and boy do we need it here along with tending ATV batteries at -30 Celsius because after one night in the winter, your ATV will not start...) but when I leave the cottage on a Sunday night and leaving the Sea-Doo on a bouey for five days, is there anything I should do that I am not doing aside from covering it????

Should I spray some gizmo's stuff in the cylinders or in the carbs? Honestly, I have never seen anyone do this around here or mentioning it to me.

But true, my engine gave out after 124 hours so there must have been something I did wrong...

Funny, when I was younger, I used to take out my 9.9 HP outboard motor inside in the basement in the heat and that was easy. But a whole Sea-Doo in a basement is a whole different thing... And I am new to Sea-Doo's ... but learning fast...


Benji.

 

[Mickirig1]

Fogging oil comes in a spray can. It makes a cloud of oil droplets. That oil coat surfaces and sticks to protect them. It can be found on the Internet. Antifreeze is put in the cooling system then drained out ,to in theory to take the place of any water trapped in water jacket. So it does not freeze and crack the engine.
You said Sea Doo attached - (floating?) - to a buoy for 24 hours ? You know most are not certified to be left in the water over night? Something may leak and it will sink if no bilge pump and a great battery.