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My recent details.....

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suke

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I've posted this other places, but since I've done a couple skis.....and both Sea Doo's figured I'd start posting some here too.

I've been detailing on the side for approx......wow 17 years now. I've done countless cars/trucks. I've owned skis in the past, but never really got into detailing them much other than my own recently. Had a buddy pick up a pair of skis, one he was just going to flip, but one he wanted me to clean up. Later decided after seeing his RXT X that he wanted the RXP also cleaned up to sell.

Seadoo RXT-X
Before





They wanted the numbers ripped off since they are getting new ones. So off they went.


Not exactly sure what happened here.

Buffed out quite easily.


Buffed out most of the scratches at this point, but haven't got pics of it all.

All cleaned up atleast.

Seat came out pretty good, not great.


Before





After




50/50 shot


Before



After

 
What I'm currently working on.
Testing out a spot. Picked up a new buffer to try out on this one.


After


More befores






Black is pretty faded like normal



After a mega cleaning. Actually doesn't look half bad. It'll get a full buff anywho and should look amazing!








 
Nice work. What do you use on the black plastic like the storage compartment lid?

I used a porter cable using Adams Polishes 4" focus pads, with adams polishes product called revive. It's essentially a cleaner polish. I use it on decals and vinyl as well that have become dulled. You'd be surprised what it can bring back from the dead. Has to be a shiny plastic, otherwise it won't really work.

Also used the same process on the chrome bits to get rid of the water spots. I'll do the same on the RXP.
 
Numbers buffed out on this side.

All cleaned up and ready to be buffed. This was actually worse than the RXT and was a PITA. Especially this side.

Apparently this is Seadoo quality gelcoat. You can see a wave in the gel. I thought maybe it had been painted, but apparently my buddies other ski has the same thing on it. Buffing out nice though.

You can see some gel coat defects in the peak of the nose indention here.


I'll get back working on it tomorrow. Didn't get much done tonight, but the numbers really would not buff out.
 
I used a porter cable using Adams Polishes 4" focus pads, with adams polishes product called revive. It's essentially a cleaner polish. I use it on decals and vinyl as well that have become dulled. You'd be surprised what it can bring back from the dead. Has to be a shiny plastic, otherwise it won't really work.

Also used the same process on the chrome bits to get rid of the water spots. I'll do the same on the RXP.

Thanks for the tip. I think i'll try it out on the boat windshields.
 
50/50 Shot.


50/50 of the grab handle after taking a heat gun to it.

Other side that hasn't been treated.

All done

Before



Before taking the heat gun to it


All done and treated



All done






 
[MENTION=59515]suke[/MENTION] excellent work... have you noticed any dulling on the grey color close to the numbers before you detailed the ski?? how/what did you do to get rid of it??

the grey on my gtx is faded some right by the nose and the hood.. used quite a few things different things to get rid of it. andd its still faded haha

thanks in advance!!
 
[MENTION=59515]suke[/MENTION] excellent work... have you noticed any dulling on the grey color close to the numbers before you detailed the ski?? how/what did you do to get rid of it??

the grey on my gtx is faded some right by the nose and the hood.. used quite a few things different things to get rid of it. andd its still faded haha

thanks in advance!!

Fading or oxidizing is a fairly common issue on gelcoats. Both of the skis I just did were faded/oxidized pretty bad. I had to buff off the oxidation with compound. Depending on the severity it could take a minor cut compound or a heavy cut compound. To even out the numbers once I pulled them off both skis took a heavy cut followed by a finer polish to bring the shine back out. Both were done with machines and not by hand. Gelcoat is pretty hard to mess up and can be tackled by someone new to buffing.
 
Fading or oxidizing is a fairly common issue on gelcoats. Both of the skis I just did were faded/oxidized pretty bad. I had to buff off the oxidation with compound. Depending on the severity it could take a minor cut compound or a heavy cut compound. To even out the numbers once I pulled them off both skis took a heavy cut followed by a finer polish to bring the shine back out. Both were done with machines and not by hand. Gelcoat is pretty hard to mess up and can be tackled by someone new to buffing.

did you use a sand grain compound? or one of those metal grain compounds?
 
Hey suke great work.
Would you be willing to share with us some fundamentals? Such as eqiupment, product lines, techniques/applications, do's and dont's?
Minimizing the learning curves would be a big help. Thanks
Again, impressive work!
 
Hey suke great work.
Would you be willing to share with us some fundamentals? Such as eqiupment, product lines, techniques/applications, do's and dont's?
Minimizing the learning curves would be a big help. Thanks
Again, impressive work!

Oh boy.....putting 17 years worth of experience down would take a while. Lemme see what I can pull together.
 
This is the buffer I use on boats/skis with gel coat. It's a rotary buffer and should not be used on your vehicles clear coat. Rotaries and car paint should not mix......ever in a newbs hands.
313.jpg


This is what I use on heavily oxidized gel coat 21h2JveK3nL.jpg
http://www.amazon.com/3M-05954-Supe...F8&qid=1371402138&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+compound
Followed by
41oy6erNwIL.jpg
http://www.amazon.com/3M-35928-Fine...8&qid=1371402138&sr=8-12&keywords=3m+compound
I use a wool bonnet for the heavy cutting, or as a one step with finesse it II if it's not that bad.
image_15266.jpg
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-1-2-half-inch-wool-buffing-pad-90451.html
Follow behind with a foam pad and finesse it II
image_15336.jpg
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-black-foam-polishing-pad-91236.html


The trick with buffing is keep the pad moving and steady. Don't let it sit too long in one spot. This technique is what takes experience so you don't burn your paint. Upside is gelcoat is SUPER tough and would take a lot to burn.

These guys are GREAT at showing newbs the ropes for buffing. I actually use their products almost exclusively for detailing cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q7jZ97BkmI&list=PL354F6C60CD9620EC
 
Hot dam a Harbor Freight man! Works for me.
Thanks for the response. By the looks of your photo gallery you're a busy guy so I appreciate you taking the time.
Is the buffer a HF product as well? I purchased one there recently that is a 1k-3.5k rpm type (Chicago Electric Brand) that is still new in box that I understand will get the job done for my level of use.
I'm a detail driven guy, so the showroom quality of you work is what caught my eye. I'm looking at protecting and beautifying my RXT's... they should be a snap compared to some of the 'before' pics you've displayed.
 
Hot dam a Harbor Freight man! Works for me.
Thanks for the response. By the looks of your photo gallery you're a busy guy so I appreciate you taking the time.
Is the buffer a HF product as well? I purchased one there recently that is a 1k-3.5k rpm type (Chicago Electric Brand) that is still new in box that I understand will get the job done for my level of use.
I'm a detail driven guy, so the showroom quality of you work is what caught my eye. I'm looking at protecting and beautifying my RXT's... they should be a snap compared to some of the 'before' pics you've displayed.

Yeah some of my buffers are $300+ this one I got specifically for boats/skis and I'm not too concerned with if it craps out.
 
Not really a PWC, but still water related.
Up next!


Some oxidation and fading of the gelcoat. Should buff out well.


Little scuff

Better view of what I'm facing.

Little nicks here or there. Some should buff out.

Waterline marks

After heavy cut compound.

Done half this side.

Packed garage. It's staying inside due to the rain.
 
FYI.....


If you get a boat/ski in with an orange scum line. A mix of Peroxide and toilet bowl clear will take it out of the gel. Some guys like 50/50... but depending on your sprayer... you can go 70/30. (70% peroxide) That makes it thinner, and it sprays better.

Needless to say... do it outside, and wash well after to neutralize.
 
FYI.....


If you get a boat/ski in with an orange scum line. A mix of Peroxide and toilet bowl clear will take it out of the gel. Some guys like 50/50... but depending on your sprayer... you can go 70/30. (70% peroxide) That makes it thinner, and it sprays better.

Needless to say... do it outside, and wash well after to neutralize.

Interesting. It buffed out quite easily for the most part.
 
In PA... we get a lot of mine runoff. It's kind of an orange/rusty scum that will collect in the rivers and lakes. It gets into the gel... so you need a chemical to lift it out. If it buffed... then it's not an issue.
 
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