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Motor Decarb method I use

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rickster_a1

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I have owned boats from 10ft Jon boats to 24ft Hydrasports, Seacrafts, Mako's ect... I saw this method to decard a motor from another forum years ago and I have used this on all my boat motors.

I picked up a 2002 X-20 (240hp EFI motor) over the weekend and although it wasn't used much, the guy really never did much in terms of maintenance on the boat. Over the weekend I did the following decarb method and the boat was smoking so much from burning off carbon someone actually stopped and wanted to know if we needed a tow LOL.



Seafoam cleaning method by a fellow named DUNK on another forum.

"This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Optimax and even 4 strokes...

First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3-gallon red Tempos works great or an empty gal milk jug will also work, but might be a bit messier.

I use Seafoam over the OEM stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Mercury Power Tune because in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that? Seafoam you can buy from NAPA, CarQuest or other auto stores. Seafoam works in 15 minutes.

You'll need 3/4 gal of gasoline and one 16oz can of Seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are premixing in a carbed engine (in my case I didn’t need to add oil because the X-20 is oil injected). Use about a 3-ft piece of fuel hose off the little tank. You connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose off the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank on to that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If you have an engine that has fuel plug then you need a matching fuel plug on the little tanks hose. On my X-20 I plugged the end of the hose right into the fuel filter. I can include a picture of this if needed.

Start the engine, let it warm up to operating temperature. Then stop the engine and switch to the external tank and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she gets loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 minutes at the dock or just cruising around under 2500rmp’s. Then shut it down and let it sit for 15 minutes. Restart the engine, the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 minutes. If she smokes after the second time, do it again, but I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. The gallon mix should be enough to do this 3 times (not the case with my X-20, I ran the first 15 minutes but on the second round only had enough of the mixture for about 5 minutes running time). You don't need any wide-open throttle; you don't need to change the plugs. If it's cleaning the combustion chambers it's also cleaning the plugs, but every season or 100hrs is good time to change plugs in most engines. I plan on adding this to my end of season winterization and starting the season with new plugs.

You guys with the 4 strokes think you are immune from this? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they will carbon up. I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used Seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke.

Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2-stroke oil that causes the carbon. Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2-stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne.

For those guys that like to do the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carburators, Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure. Says right on the can Oxygen Sensor Safe, for you Yamaha guys.

:cheers:
 
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