more problems !!

[nick34]

alright drilled and cut carb bolts off took about 4hrs damn stainless bolts well the big problems is the carb still does not want to come off its like frozen to the manifold i was unable to drill and cut with motor in ski so i took off exhaust unscrewed motor mounts and rubber boot on shaft tried to lift motor all the way out and the shaft came loose from the impellar will this whole package come out or is there a way to diconnect the shaft from the motor i was able to lean and tilt motor on side to cut bolts

BUT AGAIN THE CARB WILL NOT COME OFF!!!!can i take the bolts that are behind carb what will that do its appears to be something for the oil pump maybe is there anygears in there please help wanna get her in the water the longer it sits the more the wife wants to sell NNNNOOOOOOO!!!!!!

 

[timmyboy76]

push the steel collar, what the carbon ring rides against, forward, to expose a metal snap ring. Pop the ring off, and undo the hose clamps, then the shaft should "pop" out of "pto", leave'n it in ski.
With carbs, might need to pry little more, to undo the gasket thats keep'n "welded" to the manifold, ( thaat is if you have the carb bolts off):cheers:

 

[PWCdoc]

I'm guessing that you cut the heads off of the bolts holding the carbs on? If I assume correctly and they won't budge the problem is the buildup of corrosion between the bolt and carb (common problem on this setup). I've actually had to physically cut thru the bolt (and carb) lower down to be able to remove some. It will essentially net you a screwed up carb that'll most like require replacement.

Getting the intake manifold off and out of the hull will make your task a lot easier but I would expect you to encounter similar corrosion problems on the 4 bolts that secure the intake manifold. You need to be very careful from here on because being hasty will end up netting you a hell of a lot of frustration and broken bolts.

 

[seadoosnipe]

I agree!....

:agree: with PWCdoc. You'll see this in most of the pre 2000 models, because of their age.

I did a lot of research on this problem in the past. What your seeing at the carb bolts is a process over time, created by electrolysis called, Aluminum oxide. Here is a short quote from my "snipes korner" on the topic.

When you try to remove a bolt, say on your carbs or heads, you’ll notice that they are either hard to remove, or you may even break one. Then, when you get it out, you’ll notice this white powdery stuff all over the threads of the bolts. This is a different white stuff than what you’ve experienced in your tuned pipe. This is called “aluminum oxide”. It’s caused when two different metals meld together, in this case, aluminum and stainless. It’s normal and not much you can do about it, unless you want to discontinue the use of Loctite and anti seize your bolts. If you choose this path as I have. You’ll need to use lock washers and the bolts will have to be checked frequently. And I mean real frequently. Because the vibrations of a 2 cycle engine will loosen these bolts fast. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO THIS TO ANY OF THE INTERNAL CARB BOLTS HOLDING THE ARRESTOR SCREENS SUPPORT CASING (there are 6 of them). Because if one of these vibrates out, it will end up in the engine and cause major damage.

You can read the entire post in my threads by clicking on the link, Snipes Korner below, in my signature.

 

[PWCdoc]

Also, what you may be able to do is to cut through one, leave enough material to get tools onto afterwards, and rotate the entire carb assembly with bolt in place in order to get off without cutting all 4. It's been a while since I've had to get that drastic but if you cut through the inner 2 bolts closer to the base you'll be able to rotate the carbs outwards in order to make room to rotate the entire carb to remove them. Go ahead and be prepared to replace the carbs and bolts.

 

[nick34]

yep screwed them up and still not off my dad had a slide hammer somehow attached it to the top of carbs and slammed the hell out of it and all it did was brake the carb ..never budged so does anyone have a set of carbs intake and rotary valve cover they wanna sell cheap

 

[Nate Surveyor]

Bummer.

Nate

 

[PWCdoc]

Yeah, I told ya to take your time. Don't worry about it too much, your options were very limited. You might be able to save the intake manifold though and I'm sure several here have carbs to help you out with. I've got a set I can let go I think but I'll have to check to make sure I still have them.

 

[nick34]

hey doc yea that would be great im gonna try to take the rotary valve plate off as long as i keep that gear in place and dont let it move i should be alright
right???

 

[PWCdoc]

Yeah, try to keep the actual valve from coming out if you can. Best way will be to push it down thru one of the ports to make sure it stays on the motor. If it does happen to stick to the intake manifold don't worry to much as we can talk you through putting it back on properly.

I know it's frustrating you to no end but just try to relax and it'll be running right by the time we're all finished.