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Mineral instead of sythethic
- Thread starter Orange
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Here is the recommended use of oil from seadoo. Your model should use synthetic or synthetic blend.
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.
Karl
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.
Karl
Orange
New Member
What kind of engine damage?
The 2 types of oil separate like oil and vinegar. I have seen engines seize because of no lubrication. The 2 oils work against each other...engine failure is almost a definite. If you have run it I recommend you change the oil and do a compression test to see what is going on inside the engine. You might get lucky and no damage. What happens is the oil combined breaks down and the engine over heats, causing a seizure.
How did the mix happen? Did you add the 2 together in your injector tank, or pre-mix it? If it is in a injector tank than it might still be ok as the oil takes time to mix and move to the engine through the oil lines.
Let me know more information on the mix, and I'll tell ya what you need to do.
Karl
How did the mix happen? Did you add the 2 together in your injector tank, or pre-mix it? If it is in a injector tank than it might still be ok as the oil takes time to mix and move to the engine through the oil lines.
Let me know more information on the mix, and I'll tell ya what you need to do.
Karl
Orange
New Member
Seadoo 3d, new to me, was low on oil so I put in mineral oil yesterday at the lake (the same I put in my 98 speedster boat.). It was the first time I added oil to the ski. Was running fine until the afternoon when I tried to take it out and started hard, then when it turned on, had very little power and sputtered.
Was looking at it today and noticed the sticker said sythethic only.
Was looking at it today and noticed the sticker said sythethic only.
I believe your seadoo has a rotary valve. Here is some information on what you need to do to solve you problem.
After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. To drain the oil from the Rotary Valve Chamber, use a shop vac to suck the oil out of the hose…it’s the one that is 3/8” diameter. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose.
For the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft, attach the hose on the tank and allow the oil to fill the hose and attach it to the case. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.
I hope this helps you out.
Karl
After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. To drain the oil from the Rotary Valve Chamber, use a shop vac to suck the oil out of the hose…it’s the one that is 3/8” diameter. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose.
For the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft, attach the hose on the tank and allow the oil to fill the hose and attach it to the case. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.
I hope this helps you out.
Karl
Last edited by a moderator:
Orange
New Member
Took the ski to APS in Phoenix, AZ. They told me engine is gone and needs to be replaced. Got a quote of $2000 for new engine installed. I bought it with the trailer for around that. It is a clean ski, but do I get it fixed?
I was thinking SBT, but I don't know much about installing a new engine and don't want to run around for any extra parts I need etc.
Any comments or suggestions?
I was thinking SBT, but I don't know much about installing a new engine and don't want to run around for any extra parts I need etc.
Any comments or suggestions?
Engine Rebuild
Sepak with Jim at AZ Jetski. He is in phx on cave creek and bell road I think it is. Nice guy. Will stand behind his work. Tell him Glen sent you (no I am not his sales man
Just a customer of his that got screwed over by two other guys before he was recomended to me. I have 96 seadoo boat. He is doing the top end on mine now. Good luck!
Sepak with Jim at AZ Jetski. He is in phx on cave creek and bell road I think it is. Nice guy. Will stand behind his work. Tell him Glen sent you (no I am not his sales man
Just a customer of his that got screwed over by two other guys before he was recomended to me. I have 96 seadoo boat. He is doing the top end on mine now. Good luck!I do not want to speak for him but probably. Will not hurt to call. If your happy with the other guys then stay with them. I have never used them so I have no idea.
I have learned the hard way that it is sometimes better to pay more up front and get the job done right then pay a little less and have to do it twice, or even three times. Then theres the whole time out of the water. priceless. for everything else theres mastercard
I have learned the hard way that it is sometimes better to pay more up front and get the job done right then pay a little less and have to do it twice, or even three times. Then theres the whole time out of the water. priceless. for everything else theres mastercard
Bummer.....!
Bummer you didn't see the oil sticker before you put the oil in. Rule of thumb, you can put synthetic oil into an engine running mineral but never put mineral in a synthetic blend engine.
Like Karl said, they are like oil and water, they do not mix.
I was trying to remember what year your 3D was because the earlier ones used the 787 and the newer models are using the 951.
The new remanufactured engine is the way to go, if it is indeed shot. I'd do a compression test on it first or find out why he said it's gone. If you only put a little in it and didn't run it that long, it seems unlikely that you'd blow the engine that fast.
If so, this guy Glenwhitt is talking about would be my choice in mechanics. Only problem is, depending on how busy he is, he may not want to fool around with the engine change, since there isn't a lot of labor in it, so there is less money to be made in doing it. But someone with a bit of mechanical skills and a few tools can do the engine change. The hardest part is getting it lined back up to the pump if you mess up the shims.
I'd buy a compression test gage from your local auto parts store and do a test on your cylinders to see how much compression you have. The test is simple and will let you know if the guy that said you need a new engine is blowing smoke. You can use our search engine with keywords "compression test" and should lead you to the procedure.
Good luck, let us know what you decide to do.........:cheers:
Bummer you didn't see the oil sticker before you put the oil in. Rule of thumb, you can put synthetic oil into an engine running mineral but never put mineral in a synthetic blend engine.
Like Karl said, they are like oil and water, they do not mix.
I was trying to remember what year your 3D was because the earlier ones used the 787 and the newer models are using the 951.
The new remanufactured engine is the way to go, if it is indeed shot. I'd do a compression test on it first or find out why he said it's gone. If you only put a little in it and didn't run it that long, it seems unlikely that you'd blow the engine that fast.
If so, this guy Glenwhitt is talking about would be my choice in mechanics. Only problem is, depending on how busy he is, he may not want to fool around with the engine change, since there isn't a lot of labor in it, so there is less money to be made in doing it. But someone with a bit of mechanical skills and a few tools can do the engine change. The hardest part is getting it lined back up to the pump if you mess up the shims.
I'd buy a compression test gage from your local auto parts store and do a test on your cylinders to see how much compression you have. The test is simple and will let you know if the guy that said you need a new engine is blowing smoke. You can use our search engine with keywords "compression test" and should lead you to the procedure.
Good luck, let us know what you decide to do.........:cheers:
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