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Milky Oil

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cchris0411

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Ok after weeks of waiting for a new starter to arrive, I installed the new starter and changed the oil and filter while I was at it. The ski started up and ran fine with the flush kit... I opened the oil spout to add more oil when the cell rang and I had to run out for work. This is where things went wrong. I was called out to work and left my youngest with my wife. My youngest decided to help dad out and was the ski for me. Long story short he hosed down the ski very well, including the oil inlet. When I returned home I was lucky enough to catch him at hit.
I immediatly pumped out the oil, tileted the ski to get all that I could get out. I filled the ski up and let it idle. I stopped the ski and the oil was milky so I changed the filter again and the oil... Ok I have done this three times now and the oil is still milky... What can I do to gett all of this water out of the oil?? Is there an actual oil plug to drain all of the oil out?
Please help the weekend is coming!
2002 GTX 4-tech no super chager
 
Chris, do you use an oil extractor to change you oil? This works best for this application.
Here is the best way to remove the engine oil. Remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick. Incert a oil extractor tube in the dipstick 18.7 inches from the top of the dipstick pipe. Wrap tape around the tube to be sure it is in that deep. Next, extract the oil from the dipstick. When no more oil is extracted, pull the tube out of the dipstick hole and crake the engine(do not start) while the engine is in drown mode(fullly depress the throttle lever and HOLD, than crank the engine).
Crank the engine for 10 seconds, Extract oil again, repeat crank extract 2-3 more times.
Keep track of how much oil you extract and add what you removed.

Besure you use 10w40, marine 4 stroke Oil, with a API of SL, SJ or SN.
You need 3 L or 2.7 us quarts with filter for oil change.( full capicity is 4.7 qts)

You will need a E-10 star socket or a 8mm(6pt) socket to remove the oil filter cap. There are 3 "O" rings in the filter cap area if they are damaged change them. Check level. I hope this info helps. Good Luck

Karl
 
I may be wrong but I think that the only way to drain oil is to suck it out. If this is the case I would not put new filter on untill all water is out, keep changing oil until it is clear, starting it each time for 5 minutes on the hose. once oil is clear install new filter. good luck Robin
 
Suck........do you mean extract?

I may be wrong but I think that the only way to drain oil is to suck it out. If this is the case I would not put new filter on untill all water is out, keep changing oil until it is clear, starting it each time for 5 minutes on the hose. once oil is clear install new filter. good luck Robin

Uh Robin...I think sucking the oil out leaves a bad taste in your mouth :ack:...try my idea of extracting...from the previous post. :)

Karl
 
Thanks guys, I am using the oil extractor they sold me at the dealer to pull the oil out, I have done it now 4 times and still getting milky oil. I think I will go out and buy some inexpensive oil and keep doing it until it comes out without the milky look then pull the cheap oil and put in the good stuff.
Would you change the filter every time or is it possible to clean the filter using fuel or alcohol
 
I think as far as the filter, it won't do much changing it everytime...as it isn't a sump filter. The filter is only for debris...not milky oil. just keep changing the oil. Keep it to mineral oil if that is what you use.
Keep us posted.
Karl
 
Six oil changes later and it looks like I have it beat.
It looks like the oil is clear. I think next time I will have it on the water when doingg the changes to make sure the oil gets up tp temp before chaning it out.
I went to the dealer and they told me to change it, let the motor idle until warm then change it again for three times. On the fourth time I was supposed to run the sh** out of the machine and change the oil one last time.. I like my way a little better and it cpst me a whole bunch less... I HOPE
 
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The best way to replace the water filled oil would of been easier to change it before you ran it. Once it gets run it mixes all through the oil system.

Karl
 
Heat....

Sorry I missed this one earlier....
If you had changed it once or twice, you could have just ran it. Knowing where the water came from, you know your not putting anymore in, it would have evaporated as the engine got hot.
It really wasn't a big deal. As long as you know how the water got in....:cheers:
 
It could have bent the crank, if his boy stuck the hose down in the oil fill tube, and filled her up!!! More than likely there wasn't that much, and with there being no antifreeze mixed into the oil, some would have evaporated, but the thought of water in the engine oil makes most a little nervous!!!
 
We too the ski's down to the water after the whole oil and water incident. I put the ski into the water and it cranked up great.... Lol Now the next issue the motor revs and nothing happens.. No jet...
Looking for suggestions
Chris
 
Wearing ring?

Either something is blocking your intake, keeping you from building thrust in the nozzle, or your wearing ring needs replaced.
There are several threads on the wearing ring in the forum. You may want to do a search on it and read some of them to help you trouble shoot......:cheers:

Yellow oil. The oil color being yellow, doesn't mean there is a lot of oil in it. It means it's been aerated. When you get a tablespoon of water in your oil and it's run through the pump, it becomes aerated, changing the color by putting air bubbles in it. If it wasn't much, you can let it evaporate off. But, like Mirage says, this can make the owner a bit nervous because, if it was bad, then your likely going to wipe your bearings.
I made the statement about evaporation because you said you changed the oil several times. If your running 98% oil, then that other 1 or 2% should evaporate off without losing much of the oils ability to remove the heat created by friction.
 
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