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Merc 240 EFI
- Thread starter Trhixon
- Start date
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Lumps
Active Member
Yes but make sure you run a hose on the flushing port. Turn the hose on first. Then the engine. When done. Turn off the engine
Then the hose. Dont go higher then idle.
Or did you mean with no water at all? I hear that's not a good idea since all the water drains by its self so you would be running the engine with zero cooling. It's not the same as the Rotax 2 cycle engines
I meant no water at all. Just to b sure Water on/start engine/engine off/water off. I have heard to shut the water off first to clear it from the engine. Not so?
You have a Merc engine,, it wants/needs water. It is the opposite of the Seadoo engines... So in your case, it is water, engine, engine, water...
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
You won't hurt a thing running your engine out of water. (for a short time)
Unlike a standard I/O or outboard... you don't have a water pump to burn up. AND, unlike a the Rotax boats, you don't have a carbon seal in the drive.
With that said... without water... the engine will overheat, and the typical garden hose doesn't have enough water volume to cool the engine. The majority of the water will go out the "Intake" and the exhaust. SO... don't run it for longer than 10~15 seconds at a time (out of the water) and keep a hand on the cyl heads to know when you are starting to get hot.
To truly get the fuel stabilizer into the engine... I recommend putting it in the tank on the last ride of the season. BUT, you can drain the vapor tank, and the big spin-on filter. Then, I like to pour a little 2-stroke oil, and fuel stabilizer into the filter... and put it back onto the engine. Now when you start it, you will get a heavy shot into the vapor tank, and into the engine.
That's my story, and I'm sticki'n to it.
Unlike a standard I/O or outboard... you don't have a water pump to burn up. AND, unlike a the Rotax boats, you don't have a carbon seal in the drive.
With that said... without water... the engine will overheat, and the typical garden hose doesn't have enough water volume to cool the engine. The majority of the water will go out the "Intake" and the exhaust. SO... don't run it for longer than 10~15 seconds at a time (out of the water) and keep a hand on the cyl heads to know when you are starting to get hot.
To truly get the fuel stabilizer into the engine... I recommend putting it in the tank on the last ride of the season. BUT, you can drain the vapor tank, and the big spin-on filter. Then, I like to pour a little 2-stroke oil, and fuel stabilizer into the filter... and put it back onto the engine. Now when you start it, you will get a heavy shot into the vapor tank, and into the engine.
That's my story, and I'm sticki'n to it.
biffdotorg
Active Member
I would agree with that. Right or wrong, I dry fire my engine each time while prepping at the boat landing to be sure I will not be "that guy" that cannot start his engine while backed in. I also dry-fire it when pulling out. Even though these boats drain automatically, that last fire up shows the Bush pigs (DNR) that I am doing my part to get the water out of the pumps.
Engines will not over heat in 5-10 seconds. But Tony is right, it also won't work stabilizer into the fuel in the engine.
Good luck,
Engines will not over heat in 5-10 seconds. But Tony is right, it also won't work stabilizer into the fuel in the engine.
Good luck,
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