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Max speed limited

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k-jack

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Bought two 2001 GTS (717) from my brother last year. I knew what I was getting into with one of them. My wifes, : ) is a hoot to drive and has good power all around. Mine, haha, losses power on the top end. there is a variety on symptoms, I will bullit them for thoughts...

Both have same compresion (150) lbs
Both have been re-engined
The carb has been taken off at a dealer recently, cleaned and filters cleaned, he said he fixed it but nadda....
Both ski's impellers check out OK at the dealer


When we first put in the water they have the same top end speed.

After going cruising for a few minutes, they get warm. Mine will only go max speed 1/2 or a little more throttle. I can hold the throttle wide open or 1/2 open, same speed.

My brother said he noticed it would drop off when he turned left.

If I hit a set of good waves and keep it WOT, the ski will take off and pass hers. It catches air between waves and the RPMs max out, and the engine hold RPMs and it takes off. : ) Once I let the throttle off, I am back to the same situation. No top end speed.

Someone told me when they re-engined, they may have put the impeller 180 off? Not sure how that could account for the speratic topend.

Low compresion would seam to be the root cause, but, they are the same.

Could it be computer thing, when it warms up its in a safe mode?

The shop I took it to, was not a sea-doo dealer and did not have the diognostics equipment. Would a sea-doo dealer be able to read a code on a 2001?

I think the left hand turn thing my brother mentioned, just put enough resistance on the motor, causing it to loose RPMs and then it would not get back to full speed.

Any thought would be appreaciated before I take it back to the dealer and get drained for $$$$ again.

thx, from the rainy end of the country!

Karen
 
Water regulator....

You sound like your doing a good job on trouble shooting. Keep it up and you'll likely find the problem yourself.
Check your water regulator at the resonator, which is at the very end of your exhaust system.
It will be round and have a red cap in the middle, that looks like you can adjust it with a screwdriver. It has two small water hoses (about 1/4")connected to it. You can disconnect those two hoses and make sure they are clear. The small brass nipple screwed into the exhaust resonator, make sure it's clear (make sure you remember which one goes where).
I know that doesn't seem like it can cause a problem, but believe it or not, you can actually do catastrophic damage to the engine if this is not functioning.
Do not attempt to adjust anything, just clean and blow through them. The brass fitting is a specific size to allow a certain amount of water through..
If there's a code, you should know by "beeps" from the DESS or, if you have an info center, you'd see a "P" code. I didn't look in the manual on your specific model, but you should have some type signal that your in "limp" mode.

From a friend in the south,
Home of the new KC-45 tanker,
Skatman!.......
 
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I will take a look!

Blow through with an airhose, right?

There have been no beeps, except when I plug the key in (both Skis) are the same.

Land, of no spring. 50 degrees, two weeks ago, record setting 85+ this week-end and high and dry...

Its all good!
 
I was thinkn, danger, if the rersonator could do major damge, it would have done, its been doin this for several years now.

Just thinkin again
 
The last 12" of the exhaust there is a 10" round, 10" long "resinator" ? there are no hoses going into it. Just a 2" round house the goes to a 1" x 10" plastic box on the opposite side of the ski. There is one small hose about 20" long that goes into the exhaust manifold where it connects to the "resinator" ? That hose runs up the top of the exhaust manifold close to where it bolts to the engine. Are we talking the same model of ski?
 
Took it out again today. Now it does not get up to speed at all, cold or warm. 1/2 thorttle or full throttle, the negine wont get up to higer RPMs unles you go through a series of waves.

Last september, the shop said the took the carb off and and cleaned it, tested it and said it ran fine. It still doin gthe same thing though, dont believe the even tested it on the water.


??????
 
Had it on the lake yesterday with air cleaner off ( no restriction) and seat off. Ran a series of runs adjusting the lower carb screw 1/2 turn at a time. Went from one turn out to 3+ turns out no change. 1/2 throttle to full throttle RPMs dont change, same speed. Notices when I had the engine shut off, a little puff of smoke would come out of the carb when a wave would rock the ski. We thought maybe it was the reeds as, smoke shpould not be comong back out of the engine. We looked up the model # and it has a some sort of disk that spins, timing the fuel flow into the motor. Is that what a rave valve is?
 
any thing come to mind?

There is one clear tube that runs from the bottom of the exhaust tube out the back of the ski, it is clear.

I was looking at the carb linkage and down the throat, the buuterfly is opening all the way open, the lever that pushed the diaphram open pushed the diaphram.

Could it be the rotary disk. When I was sitting on the lake rocking back and forth aftyer I shut the engine down, there would be a little puff of smoke come out ot the carb every time it rocked back and forth, the disk does not seal the engine intake?

Thx
 
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rave valves

Has it been serviced lately...It could be the RAVE(Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust)valves are in need of service.The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows" be careful with the small retaining spring that hold the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem

Description of RAVE VALVES are thanks to Premium member " KUSTOMKARL".
 
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I like the principal thought process , except I dont see any rave valves on this 717 engine. I will a take a peek when I get home. thx!
 
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