i bought a 97 gtx for 300 bucks, needed an ecm, replaced it as needed, ran good for a couple of tanks of gas, then lost power, i have found that the hose connecting the tuned pipe and the muffler burned a hole in it, i replaced it and it ran good till it burned out again. i have a manual and did some tests, any suggestions out there, im a harley mechanic, so if anyone has ?'s feel free to ask
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loss of power
- Thread starter flhxsei
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Is the seadoo cooling properly? it sounds like the cooling isn't pumping enough water to cool the exhaust. Does it have an aftermarket exhaust, incorrectly connected?
Karl
Karl
seadoo is all stock, has never over heated, temp gauge works , the little hole by the tow hook dosnt always stream water
That Hole in the tow hook is the "Tell Tail". It doesn't steam water it squirts water. That's how you know it is cooling the engine at a glance. I would check the cooling lines for a blockage, it isn't getting enough cooling to cool the exhaust. The "Tell Tail" must squirt water all the time!
Karl
Karl
I am "readoo-ing" this challenger I bought. I found sand in the water jackets and couple of the hose plugged. The guy had just replaced the rubber hose connecting the tuned pipe to the water box. He ran it like that for a while....what a mess. All is right with the world hope to splash it before memorial day. Need to bolt the re-upolstried seats in and install the pump.....and hope I did it right.
I would check all of them...replace as needed. See if any of the lines are melted if they have plastic incerts. I have seen stranger things.
Let us know how you make out...We'll get it running ok..
Karl
Karl
If all the rubber hoses are clean , than it might be a blockage in the engine. It must have water out of the "tell tail", or it isn't getting cooled. Check the regulator on the exhaust resoniator. It might be pluged. If it is, it feeds the rest of the engine from the hose going to the cylinder head of the engine.
Karl
Karl
Did you by chance check the settings before you took it apart? I'll look in the manual for the settings, but I think it is preset at the factory.
Karl
Karl
I checked the service manual and it says don't change the red cap as it is set to the pwc. It is adjustable but if you haven't touched it leave it alone. The manual goes on to tell you how to disassemble the regulator valve. It just says remove the tapered needle from the bottom. In the same section it says it has a calibrated spring and shouldn't be modified, as it regulates the water injected into the tuned pipe. It says if the SPRING is modified it could cause damage to the engine. It doesn't say what the setting of the tapered needle is suppose to be set at. I looked up several models and they say the same thing. Is it possible the needle was all the way in? I'll keep checking and see what I can find out, before you install the tapered needle.
Karl
Karl
I have checked 6 shop manuals on verious seadoos in concerns to the "Water Flow Regulator Valve". This is what I found in all of them. It is the only thing that is adjustable on the "Water Flow Regulator Valve". No mention of the tapered needle, except it screws in the bottom of the valve. I'll keep digging till I find something.
Water Flow Regulator Valve
The water flow regulator has been calibrated at the factory and should not be tampered with or modified in any way.
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counter clockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting.
Water Flow Regulator Valve
The water flow regulator has been calibrated at the factory and should not be tampered with or modified in any way.
CAUTION: Strictly adhere to the calibration procedure or otherwise serious engine damage will occur.
If engine does not maintain RPM or the engine is experiencing poor performance, the water flow regulator valve might be out of adjustment. The normal adjustment as done at the factory is as follows: On the top of the water flow regulator valve locate the red plastic adjustment screw. Mark the location of the screw with a dab of paint for reference. Turn the screw clockwise (tighten) until the top edge of the screw is flush with the top of the black cap. Turn the screw 2 clicks counter clockwise (loosen). This is the factory spring setting.
Feeding rod??? What manual do you have? I use Authentic Seadoo Manuals...they say nothing about feeding rod...just a tapered needle on the bottom, I beleive. I'll dig into the "feeding rod".
Karl
Karl
That manual isn't the best....but it gives a general Idea.
I believe I found another member that can help us. They are having water regulator valve problems too. I asked the member to give me the settings of the tapered needle so you can adjust yours to the same adjustment....
Karl
Karl
Here is the correct repair for the tapered screw...feeding rod...what ever you want to call it. Just screw it down snug...That's it. go to post #17 for the only real adjustment needed, if you tampered with the factory setting. Let me know how you make out.
Karl
Karl
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