Lock tight vs silicone

[rxt_rick]

I took my grate off and had trouble getting it back on, so I had to take it into the dealer's service dept. He said the nuts had lock tight that was clogging up the threads. He also said I should have applied heat to the bolt before removing to prevent damage to the nut. So, my question...

Do all the bolts in the seadoo need lock tight or silicone?

And which is better... lock tight or silicone?

Where do you get these substances?

Thanks.

 

[rxt_rick]

surprised

I'm surprised there is a lack of detailed information and overall awareness on the subject of loctite. I browsed the messages in the forum on removing rope from the impeller shaft by removing the grate. No mention was made of loctite on the grate bolts to be removed.

I suggest anyone interested in doing any Seadoo repairs become familiar with loctite. Specifically, learn when to heat a bolt for removal; clean a nut from old loctite, replace a bolt only after applying new loctite.

I believe this very important.

 

[timmyboy76]

think its just "second nature" stud...I use "blue", cause the red, is just too damn tuff, to crack.

 

[custompartsguy]

us in the automotive field always say if you want to take it off again soooner then not use the blue....if it is not going to have to come apart for a long time (hopefully) use red, red is very nasty stuff and most times will require heat to remove the bolt/stud blah blah......anyways, they do sell it in a paste stick as well. and to answer your question silicon is a sealant where as locktight is just like it sounds, helps prevent bolts from vibrating loose.

 

[JJinSC]

So am I correct in hearing that we should heat the bolts before trying to remove the grate if we do not know what kind of locktight was used?? Also, How would you go about heating those bolts??

 

[timmyboy76]

i ain het'n sh** up....blister the fiberglass/gel-coat, warp the aluminum plate..etc. I'll just take my chances, and let pb-blaster, do its thing.

Let that crap sit on rv plate bolt for a day, and bamm...off it came.

 

[JJinSC]

That was my worries, hince the second question. I don't want to mess none of that stuff up.

Thanks!

 

[custompartsguy]

thanks, I didnt make it back in time to respond, do not heat them if in the fiberglass unless no other choice. Just break them loose, hey look at it this way, one of two things will happen the bolt will come loose and break free the locktight or the bolt will snap, either way its out....

 

[rxt_rick]

I was told by the repair guy that they see nuts that have been stripped loose due to not heating the bolt before removing. Quite expensive to repair.

Use a heat gun to the bolt head and obviously protect surrounding area. Can try a blow dryer instead of heat gun. The heat will naturally travel up the bolt and loosen the loctite.

Rick

 

[custompartsguy]

I was told by the repair guy that they see nuts that have been stripped loose due to not heating the bolt before removing. Quite expensive to repair.

Use a heat gun to the bolt head and obviously protect surrounding area. Can try a blow dryer instead of heat gun. The heat will naturally travel up the bolt and loosen the loctite.

Rick

To get a heat gun hot enough to melt the locktight would have to be an industrial heat gun which would cost a few hundred dollars and even then it would damage the gelcoat/glass

 

[rxt_rick]

Probably so. Why do they make nuts that can turn inside casing???