Kill Switch Lanyard - At least I'm being honest

[johnnypinaz]

Feeling dumb today... New Challenger 1800 boat.

I am on my 3rd ignition switch. First, I lost my keys and a switch is only $30 and I couldnt find a locksmith anyways. So I buy a switch...

It starts but only "whizzes". Does not crank over. Battery is solid. BTW, when I did a quick crank and it made noise I took it all the way out to the lake an hour away. Never actually tested it first.. Smooth...

Next, I get a 2nd switch... Nothing. Doesnt even try to start.

So I order a new ignition number 3. It will arrive today. BUT last night Im going through every forum, looking through color charts, diagrams.. I am stumped. Then I read the word "lanyard" and feel like a complete idiot. At some point, I removed the kill switch lanyard and tuck it away so no one would steal it after leaving my boat out front a couple of days..

I dont even remember exactly when I removed it... Anyways, today I will try again but have a question..

What is the symptom I should be getting if the kill switch cap is not on?

Im not sure why I was getting a whizzing sound one time (Starter not engaging, just spinning) and the next time I got zero... Maybe the 2nd switch is actually bad?

Does anyone know what should be happening when I try to start the boat without the kill switch? Does it still try to prime and choke but just wont turn over? Does the starter spin at all? This threw me off a bit.

 

[ripcuda]

Don't feel bad, forgetting the lanyard key has bitten all us jetski/jetboat guys at some point.

The lanyard cap pops over a button, this button when pushed in disconnects the black/yellow wire from ground. So when lanyard is off, the BLK/YEL wire is grounded. This wire connects to all the engine coils (cdm's) and when grounded (lanyard off) prevents them from making spark. My engine will still crank as normal with just the key (and lanyard off), but can't start (no spark). And I'm pretty certain that the fuel priming (lift pump and hi-pressure pump) all happens normally, it just gets no spark.

I too sometimes get the starter whizzing and not engaging/turning the motor over. Or the motor will turn over 1 revolution then the starter kicks off and whizzes. I think this is due to battery voltage while cranking. While cranking, the battery voltage will drop to a low level (lots of load on the battery)... and if this is low enough, it isn't enough power to keep starter engaged. At least I think this is the reason.

Cheers!

 

[johnnypinaz]

Thank you.. good to know.

Put the switch back in with the lanyard plugged in (LOL) and nothing...

BUT, I found a 20amp fuse blown on top of the engine. Replaced that and bang... Good to go.

I know very little about boats but this trial by fire thing has been good for me. Im less nervous about being able to work on some things myself so far. Just little things but it's been good.

 

[POPPS]

But what circuit is that fuse connected to,?,it blew for a reason and you don.'t want to be out in the lake when it blows again,,,that whirring sound from the starter can be from a weak battery,,,load test it before you go out again,

 

[johnnypinaz]

But what circuit is that fuse connected to,?,it blew for a reason and you don.'t want to be out in the lake when it blows again,,,that whirring sound from the starter can be from a weak battery,,,load test it before you go out again,

After replacing the fuse and fully charging the battery it started right up on the lake today. No whizzing sound. I think i blew the fuse when i was messing with the switch and the electrical was on. I’m hoping that’s what the fuse was about. It’s the charging system fuse.It ran great and I drove it past sunset with all my new lights on and everything seems to be good.

 

[ripcuda]

Those 3 - 20amp fuses. One for each voltage regulator and the third feeds the boat/dash power. Sounds likely you blew the dash power fuse when working on the ignition switch.

 

[johnnypinaz]

It was this one...