Just replaced my fuel lines, how do I start this thing? ALSO CHECK YOUR STOCK LINES!

[Mike94ZLT1]

Hey guys, per someones suggestion I checked the condition of my stock fuel lines on my 96 GSX and was shocked to find out that some of them were cracked and leaking fuel, and some of them had gummy buildup near the end.

I pulled the lines off one at a time, and replaced them with 1/4" fuel line from the auto parts store. The factory line is 6mm, this stuff is 6.3mm, with a clamp it has to be good enough. Anyways, I pulled off the fuel selector switch too and sprayed some Berryman's carb cleaner in there, and moved it to the different positions. I also removed the fuel filter, cleaned the cannister for it, and put a new fuel filter in. I got everything back in working order, then tackled the jet pump oil. It was actually pretty simple, the only problem I had was getting those 2 little O-rings to stick at the top of the housing so I put a tiny dab of silicone on them, and it worked like a charm.

Anyways, I want to get this thing started before I put it in the water, since if there are any fuel leaks or problems I would like to find them beforehand. I know I can hook up a hose to it and run water through it, but how? Also, since these lines are all new there is no gas in them, how do I prime the lines or do I just crank it til it starts? How long can it run on the trailer, and can I rev it at all? Since there was a bit of buildup in the lines, is there any kind of fuel system cleaner I can run through it to clean it out? It ran fine yesterday so I don't think there is anything in there, but you never know. I'm not comfortable enough with this thing yet to pull the carbs apart.

Also, while the rear end was apart I looked in there at the wear ring. It seems to be in pretty good shape and smooth for the most part, however on the lower left side there were some small scratches / gouges in it. Are those anything to worry about?

Thanks guys! Sorry for all the questions!

 

[chekoz77]

I am having the same problem. Anyone know how to prime the new dry fuel lines
? Thanks.

 

[Dr Honda]

I would put a little mixed fuel directly in the carbs... or use some starter fluid. Once it fires... it will draw fuel in just a few seconds. You can just crank it... but it will take a while. If you do it that way... do not crank for more than 5-7 seconds at a time... otherwise you may overheat the starter.

BUT... I hope you didn't mess up your fuel valve. Most spray carb cleaners will damage rubber and plastic. If you felt you needed to clean the valve, you should have use "Non-Chlorinated" brake cleaner. It is plastic safe, and will remove dirt and other build ups. Also... you should have put a few drops of 2-stroke, or light machine oil in it to re-lube the seals.

Good luck

 

[timmyboy76]

band-aid

replacing the fuel lines, aint gonna help out, whats already built up inside the carbs. You guys should tear them off and break them open.

 

[boatmonkey82]

yep , your not done yet buddy . you need to replace the lines on the carbs as well and go inside the carbs and replce the internal fuel filters , clean the barbs or nipples , set your ls screw to 1.5 and the hs screw to 0 . dont use starting fluid !!! pull your choke out - hold the throttle wide open and start it , it will take a second for the lines to prime but it should fire in under 30 seconds . i woul dnot worry about the carb cleaner in the valve . but if you dont clean your carbs and replce the filters in them you risk running lean and buring up a slug ' piston ' . oh and be sure to hold the choke while the throttle is wide open . word of advice for the fuel lines on the carbs . you can reuse the clamp that are on there if your carefull , they work the best , i can count the number of times i have replaced those lines and used a conventional clamp and they leaked real bad . the problem lies when you over tighten the clamp to stop the damn leak and the clamps cut the hose ! a good solutions is to get the clamp as close to the bulge on the nipple as possible . you will notice even with the factory clamps you can still slide the lines back and forth ,so to solve that is to do what i just mentioned . go ahead and get two carb rebuild kits with filters and needle and seat , i reuse the lil needle arms the after markets seem sloppy , set your arm level to where its even with the base or just above it , but if the needle and seat look good you dont HAVE to replace them . i think the allen screws for the air box are 4 or 5 mm and the carbs allens are 6 mm , the throttle cable and choke cables are 10 mm wrench , the choke cable has two very small allens set screws holding them in , dont take the out just loosin a bit . the screws on the carbs can be a pain to get out so either get a cheapo impact bit driver or you can use a good pair of pliers to loosen the screws , you will have two more screws insdie the carb one the needle and seat side that are also a pian to get out . once again use a impact driver and give them a few taps . these will strip very very easy . if your not confident in doing them your self let me know , you can ship them to me and all you have to do is throw them back on . pm me if interested

 

[kustomkarl]

It sounds like you could use a seadoo manual. We have manuals in our "Premium Members" section.

Here is some information on the "Premium Membership";
As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo SHOP manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and private use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.


Karl

 

[chekoz77]

Just pulled the carbs apart where the filter is...WOW. You should see all the junk that was in there,looks like mud.

I wasn't going to pull the carbs as I thought I could get by just replacing the lines, because the ski was running. But thanks to this thread i decided to take a look...Boy am I glad i did. I cant believe the amount of gunk that was in there.Thanks guys!

So yea you should def pull and clean the carbs when your changing your lines.

 

[kustomkarl]

It's kinda like the saying...if your changing you shoes because you stepped in deep water and your feet get wet, you need to change your sox too. :rofl: :ack:

Karl

 

[timmyboy76]

I thought the say'n was...Welcome to our "OOL", notice there's no "P" in it, please keep it that way...:ack:

 

[kustomkarl]

The point is to not to do something 1/2 way because it defeats it's purpose.

Next time I'll use my crayons to explain it.:rofl: :ack: