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Jet pump tunnel damage and stud issue.

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Andy4k6

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Hi,

I have been working on my boat today and when I removed the jet pump I noticed some damage in the tunnel around where the drive shaft comes out, there is big chunks missing and I don't know if this is normal or not.

Part of my concern is when I purchased this boat the jet drives were siesed solid and I took them off and ran the engines for 30 seconds without a pump on the end. Is this likly to have caused this?

Please see my photo

I also have another issue, when bolting the pump back in place one of the studs has pulled it's self out of the hull, has anyone ever had and fixed this issue before?

Many thanks

Andy 20160227_152251-1-1.jpg
 
To run the engine with jet pump removed, you must remove the drive shaft or else it will flop around and could be hazardous or beat something up.

I would expect most all of the damage can be repaired using epoxy, such as Marine-Tex for example. I had some amount of damage in my tunnel something had been stuck in the impeller (mussel shells I believe) and chipped away some of the gel coat. I used epoxy paint to reseal where the gel coat was missing.

Epoxy is a great structural adhesive, it'll fix a lot of things. As a thickener to make a paste if need be, I mix with a little sawdust until it's consistency is about like peanut butter.
 
Hi thanks for the reply,

When you say epoxy do you mean something like araldite?

I was thinking I would have to repair it with some of the chopped strand fibreglass, where it's broken it appears to be black plastic underneath.

I also don't remember hearing any noise from the drive shaft when I ran the engines which I would have expected.

The bearing still feels tight and doesn't seem to have much play in it, should I be concerned about the bearings?

Any ideas on what to do with the stud that's been pulled out of the hull?

Many thanks

Andy
 
Ah yes, not all of these have a carrier bearing thus the drive shaft will flop around but not in your case.

As far as repairing or patching gel coat, no need if the substrate surface is non-porous black plastic. I guess you are referring to the black thru-hull drive shaft grommet and it's unnecessary for the factory to completely cover it, this portion of the photo looks quite normal.

As far as the stud that pulled out, I'd consider drilling through and place a long stainless bolt with fender washer from the inside, I'd probably coat it with 3M 5200 permanent marine sealant (this is more like and adhesive b/c can never be removed, ever, this is permanent, truly) or 3m 4200 which is a fantastic semi-permanent sealant as well (very tough to remove. These are polyurethane "sealants" and Wal-Mart usually carries a polyurethane sealant in the "Attwood brand 7200" in their boating goods section.

If lose fiberglass is exposed due to chips, gouges and scrapes, it can absorb water into the lamination depending on the circumstances, in the case of white color Marine-Tex 2-part epoxy adhesive can be mixed as per instructions (often 2:1), troweled into the damaged area using an old credit card and a piece of plastic cola bottle temporarily taped over to make it smooth during cure (~12 hours depending on temps). Also an epoxy product called JB weld can be used but it's not white.

Some acetone from the wal-mart paint section wiping prior to the repair will revome grease and oil for good adhesion promotion. Your wife's nail polish remover is acetone but has buffering oils in it, so don't go there.

Sounds like you're doing okay, to me. :)
 
That's a great help thanks,

A few excellent tips too, I would have never thought of using a pop bottle to smooth the repairs however it's quite the simplest way. I would also have used nail polish remover for acetone as I have done before, I had no idea it also had oils inside .

I think i will still repair the section around the drive shaft, the damage is in the water tunnel area and has quite a lip on it, I don't want it causing any tunnel restrictions or cavitation especially as I have just fitted 2 new solus impellers.

I will also check the other side too and see if that is the same.

I will have a dig around for the products you have mentioned, unfortunately our version of wall mart here in the uk (called Asda) is nowhere near as good as what you have so I won't find the products there.

Many thanks for your time and advice

Andy
 
Sounds good, Marine-Tex is a white pigmented 2-part epoxy, maybe you have the equivalent available in UK. Price of a small jar with activator for filling scrapes and gouges and chips isn't terribly expensive so even ebay might fit any budget. This stuff trowels on as a thin putty once activated, feels and absorbs into fibrous cloth much like an oil would then polymerizes during cure to lock everything together into a solid.

You can use acetone to clean up before curing takes place, and a little acetone can be used as a thinner if necessary.

Sanding lightly the area of application and degreasing (acetone/MEK) promotes adhesion thus can make the difference of a permanent repair. Sealing is beneficial due to lose glass fibers absorb water into the laminate eventually leading to delamination, epoxy resin will soak into the wound and seal from moisture. BTW, the 5 minute quick/fast cure epoxies aren't as good at soaking into and penetrating the lose fibers.

I also had some of this type of gelcoat chipping damage in my pump tunnel around the leading edges of the impeller, and gouges on the hull bottom from "sand" bars the previous owner ran the boat in NY harbor. There still was a live mussel caught in the intake grate the day I pulled it home, lol.

As my repair I simply sprayed the exposed areas inside the pump tunnel where gel coat was chipped away using epoxy household appliance paint in a spray can, the type used for repairing washers and dryer appliances, it's liquid as dispensed and absorbs well, into the lose substrate. Using a few heavy coats to stabilize and seal the exposed fibers and reduce chances of further delamination from moisture penetration.

I had a chip in the deck where someone had dropped an anchor, filled this smooth with Marine-Tex for a no-show repair.

I think if it's still a bit rough (not perfectly smooth) inside the tunnel it's not going to impact performance IMO.

I generally use the Marine-Tex (my boat hull color is always white) to fill gouges and chips in the bottom, sand smooth and spray a leveling coat of epoxy spray paint if desired. I've done this many times to my boats and others to pretty them up in spring or fall and seal the substrate, it's not uncommon to get scrapes and gouges over the years.

White is often just white preferably, occasionally egg-shell perhaps, which can present a challange. Maybe the guys with fancy sparkly colored gel coat will go to the trouble of having their gel coat color matched to the factory color or factory matched to the gel coat color? :)
 
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