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Jet Pump Issue

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Keifer3109

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2000 GTX960. This is the first ski I've owned. While winterizing, I removed the plug to check the jet pump oil and a water/grease yellowish mix immediately started oozing up out of the hole as if it were under low pressure. It was a slow ooze and probably lasted about 5 minutes. It reminded me of opening a frozen beer, but temps were in the 60's yesterday. There were no visible leaks on the outside of the cone, but after removal, there was clear water inside. Also, the O ring appeared to be in decent shape. I removed the housing along with the driveshaft, which had rust on the end that fits into the impeller. The ski hasn't been ridden since the beginning of Oct. but I did put a lot of fresh water inside the hull to clean up a leaking oil reservoir. Is it normal for the water ooze mix to ooze out like it did, and any ideas on where the leak came from that caused the mix in the first place? I appreciate any help. Thanks.
 
No... not normal. That jet pump needs to be completely rebuilt with fresh bearings pressed in and a new double lip seal put on the front. Will require shop press, and ideally the jig tool to fit inside the bearing and double lip seal when pressing on. If there is any chattering or wear marks on the shaft, it will likely need to be replaced as well... www.osdparts.com has awesome rebuild kits with quality bearings. Have been buying from Nick for over 5 years in 4 skis and never a problem..... great guy....
 
I've done many pumps and never used a press. I used to use a punch set and sockets to set the seal and bearings. It's more risky though as its possible to damage the pump.

I bought this set of bearing tools last year and they work perectly. I can change bearings and seal in a few minutes with zero damage. It also sets the seal and bearings at the exact depth needed.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=77369
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. Mac, I just checked out the link to the kit and I'll be ordering from him shortly. Is there anything else I should replace, drive shaft, boots, hull thru fitting since I pulled the shaft out? The floating ring was lightly seized on the shaft and left a few marks on it. Haven't had a problem with water entering the hull, but didn't know if the boots and fitting were reusable.
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate it. Mac, I just checked out the link to the kit and I'll be ordering from him shortly. Is there anything else I should replace, drive shaft, boots, hull thru fitting since I pulled the shaft out? The floating ring was lightly seized on the shaft and left a few marks on it. Haven't had a problem with water entering the hull, but didn't know if the boots and fitting were reusable.
Nahh... that floating ring is the carbon seal... keeps the water out... be sure to put a new C-clip on the shaft when putting it back in the ski and new orings on the stainless collar the carbon seal presses up against. That's the surface you need to be concerned with really, not the shaft under the carbon seal. (But inspect the splines at both ends) If the carbon seal looks like it's wearing unevenly, replace that as well as check the alignment of the engine to jet pump. Uneven carbon seal wear is usually indicative of misaligned engine, which only stresses the engine and jet pump. Through hull should never need replaced unless severe failure and it rips out of hull (such as from carrier seal bearing failure, which you don't have) Make absolutely sure the rubber inserts on the ends of the shaft are in good working order and installed with lots of grease before you bolt the pump on...
 
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I put this rig together for like $7. I have always had bad luck when i use a hammer on bearings. It pulls the bearings in like a press with out beating on it.
 
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Yeah, on the shaft, under that collar, are a couple of surface buildup rings where the O rings were riding, but they come off fairly easy . Other than that, everything else looks fine. Just checked his prices and this is going to be a lot less expensive than what I thought. I was slinging out cuss words that the neighbors said they ain't ever heard before, when I found the problem yesterday. Thank you very much for your help!
That looks pretty cool, snikwad. I may grab two of everything just in case I screw something up.
 
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I put this rig together for like $7. I have always had bad luck when i use a hammer on bearings. It pulls the bearings in like a press with out beating on it.
That's a freaking GREAT idea.... pull the bearings into housing instead of pushing... [emoji122] would be easy enough to create jigs to fit in the bearing and hold properly as well... kudos to you man.... Will be developing my own from this idea...
 
I've used the same set up Snik recommended. Works great and is cheap to put together. Not as quick as some of the other methods, but unless you're planning on rebuilding a whole lot of them, who cares
 
I've used the same set up Snik recommended. Works great and is cheap to put together. Not as quick as some of the other methods, but unless you're planning on rebuilding a whole lot of them, who cares
Eggzachary. ... so much as I can rebuild my own 4 pumps with quality bearings and seals every few years, not worried about time it takes.... it's a labor of love. [emoji173]
 
To think I almost didn't do this part of the winterizing. I was thinking "this thing runs too good for there to be anything wrong with the pump." Would have felt like an idiot on the tow ride in next summer.
 
Autozone has a slide hammer with a "blind puller" on the rent a tool deal. Its got 3 fingers that expand. My experience is that is the best way to avoid this1482194969197.jpg
 
Thanks guys! I think I'll run to Harbor Freight tomorrow. We were stationed at Mtn. Home AFB in Idaho for the last 5 yrs. where the closest HF was 250 miles away. Now that we're in the D.C. area, I try to come up with any excuse I can to go to that place!
 
snikwad, what all did it take to make your setup? Any tricks for removal?
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Threaded rod, some nuts, a few washers and various sockets. I lock the nuts together and thats how I turn it. The nuts in the center allow the end to stick out of the pump so you can get a wrench on it.
 
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