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jet drive gear oil

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Ed Rousseau

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Hi all having a problem with draining my jet pump oil on my Seadoo speedster. I have removed both drain plugs under the grate. But only about 6 ounces comes out. Should I raise the bow of the boat to help with this. My manual says we should be looking at refilling with 21 ounces is this correct. Thanks Guys Ed
 
I believe he's talking about the mercury sport jet gear box oil. There is a gear box in the sport jet pump that transfers engine torque from the vertical to the horizontal plane.
 
It could simply be partly empty. This is exactly why it's a yearly maintenance point.


See if you can pump in 21oz. (when full, it comes out the vent)
 
It could simply be partly empty. This is exactly why it's a yearly maintenance point.


See if you can pump in 21oz. (when full, it comes out the vent)

I once had a guy bring me a mercruiser stern drive that wouldn't hold oil after he decided to drain and refill the gear oil. Turns out he tried to refill it from the bottom after he installed the top vent/fill plug. While pumping the gear oil in from the bottom, he pressurized the drive case to the point the drive shaft seal popped out of it's seat.

Of course he didn't want to admit to what had happened b/c the drive was still under warranty, so naturally I had to guess as to the root cause for why the seal had popped out.
 
Are you talking about the oil in the pump cone?

No I not talking about the stator. I am having issues with the jet drive. I unscrewed both set screws and pumped new gear oil in the center hole until oil came out of the vent hole to the left. Now I did leave it to drain overnight and also noticed not a lot of oil came out am I missing something her guys. Thanks Ed
 
No I not talking about the stator. I am having issues with the jet drive. I unscrewed both set screws and pumped new gear oil in the center hole until oil came out of the vent hole to the left. Now I did leave it to drain overnight and also noticed not a lot of oil came out am I missing something her guys. Thanks Ed

Is it possible the gear box was empty of oil before you started? I guess it's possible for the oil to leak out over time, no? Going forward, I would check it early and often.
 
Is it possible the gear box was empty of oil before you started? I guess it's possible for the oil to leak out over time, no? Going forward, I would check it early and often.

I,m sure it was empty not sure why its only taking a small amount maybe 6 ounces. I did happen to notice a lot of sand in everything stator wear ring. I,m thinking this boat was beached hard. I just got done tearing the whole rear end apart had the stator fixed. Did the jb weld on the wear ring which is a bomb of an idea. Repaired impellor. Everything is ready to be put back together. So I figured I would also tackle the jet drive gear oil . Thanks Ed
 
Are you using a screw-in fitting with your lube pump to fill the gear box? Is there a tube in the vent which reaches up into the gear box?

"There are two lube areas on the M2: The front of the impeller shaft (where the driveshaft and impeller shaft are connected via a set of bevel gears) and the rear of the impeller shaft (inside the stator). To do this job you’ll need a metric socket set, large flatblade screwdriver, 1/4 inch Allen wrench, two bottles of Mercury Premium Plus Gear Lube, Mercury lube hand pump, oil drain pan, wire brush, thread sealant, antiseize, and blue (medium strength) Loctite.

Adjust the trailer jack so the ride plate on the jetdrive is level.

Remove the center (fill/drain) plug in front of the intake grate. Use a large flatblade so you don’t ding up the screw. Don’t lose the little fiber washer underneath the screw.

Remove the off-center (vent) plug. The lube will begin draining. Inspect the lube for white streaks or foam (indicates water) or metal specks (indicates wear in the bevel gears). Let the lube drain into the pan while you begin working on the stator lube.

Disconnect the steering and thrust reverser cables.

Remove the four bolts holding the steering nozzle and thrust reverser to the jetdrive. Remove the assembly and set it aside.

Remove the four bolts holding the stator to the jetdrive. The stator will probably “stick” gently to the wear ring for now.

Return to the front lube area. Screw the pump hose into the center hole. Install the pump into the first bottle of lube. Begin pumping. You’ll use all of the first bottle and some of the second. Switch bottles when necessary. Eventually, the lube will start coming out of the off-center vent hole, which has a tube inside; when the lube is full it reaches the top of the tube and comes down through the vent hole.

Reinstall the off-center vent screw with its fiber washer and a dab of thread sealant on its threads. Unscrew the pump hose and reinstall the centered fill screw in the same way. The front lube is done.

Return to the stator area with the drain pan. Position the pan under the front of the stator. Pull STRAIGHT rearward on the stator to release it from the wear ring. If it sticks, tap gently with a rubber or plastic mallet. Continue pulling STRAIGHT back until the stator slides off the end of the impeller shaft. Lube will immediately begin draining. Set the stator face down on the drain pan to finish draining. Inspect the lube for white streaks or foam (indicates water).

It is important to remove and reinstall the stator straight along the impeller shaft so the impeller seal is not damaged.

Once the stator has drained, remove the center hex screw from the tip of the stator cone. Turn the stator over and let the remaining lube drain out. There’s always a little residual lube in there and this lets it all come out.

Inspect the impeller and wear ring for nicks, dings, and damage.

While the stator is draining, use the wire brush to clean the threads of all eight screws removed from the rear of the jetdrive.

Once the stator is completely drained, gently reinstall it on the back of the wear ring. Reinstall the associated screws using a dab of thread sealant, antiseize, or a very small amount of blue Loctite. Tighten in rotation and don’t overdo it; you’re tightening stainless steel bolts into aluminum threads. The service manual has torque specs but I just use my judgement.

Reinstall the center hex plug with a dab of thread sealant. Remove the top hex plug. Insert the lube pump hose (it won’t thread, you’ll have to hold it) and begin pumping. Fill until the lube reaches the bottom of the fill hole’s threads. Reinstall the top hex plug with a dab of thread sealant. The rear lube is done.

Reinstall the steering nozzle and thrust reverser assembly using a dab of thread sealant, antiseize, or a very small amount of blue Loctite. Again, tighten in rotation and don’t overdo it; you’re tightening stainless steel bolts into aluminum threads.

Reconnect the steering and thrust reverser cables. Confirm smooth operation of both from the driver’s seat. All done!

Time to complete: ~2 hours the first time, ~1 hour once you’ve done it before."
 
Hey Guys I was just going to post something along these lines... went to my local merc dealer today and they couldn't tell me what type of transfer fluid pump to buy (I thought really? and you guys are merc dealers?) anyway anyone got one with the correct screw in end for the 240 efi challenger they care to share where they bought it and the part number for it?
 
Hey Guys I was just going to post something along these lines... went to my local merc dealer today and they couldn't tell me what type of transfer fluid pump to buy (I thought really? and you guys are merc dealers?) anyway anyone got one with the correct screw in end for the 240 efi challenger they care to share where they bought it and the part number for it?

I believe you can use this one. I've seen a similar pump at Wal Mart as well, made of brass:

http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriveparts/oil_pump.html

This one also has the threaded hose adapter:

http://www.iboats.com/Lubrimatic-Lo...88422619--session_id.419570301--view_id.47675

The mercruiser threads are 3/8 x 16tpi, note the o-ring seal, these aren't tapered pipe thread.

On those large flat blade screw plugs, I use an impact driver to make sure they're watertight. I think most guys use an impact driver, so you might need one from harbor freight or somewhere.

Also, that procedure suggests using Premium gear lube but I think I'd use the High Performance gear lube.
 
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It's the regular "Mercury" oil pump. Should be less than $15 from a local boat shop, Gander Mtn, or some wal-marts.

I don't remember the thread size off the top of my head... but I'll check later today.
 
On those large flat blade screw plugs, I use an impact driver to make sure they're watertight. I think most guys use an impact driver, so you might need one from harbor freight or somewhere.

Also, that procedure suggests using Premium gear lube but I think I'd use the High Performance gear lube.

I agree with you about using the high performance gear lube. However, there is no way I would use an impact driver on those plugs. I get them tight, not too tight. If you deform the fiber washer, you will get water in the gearcase.
 
I agree with you about using the high performance gear lube. However, there is no way I would use an impact driver on those plugs. I get them tight, not too tight. If you deform the fiber washer, you will get water in the gearcase.

I use the impact driver to remove and install the drain plugs on every single mercruiser or Volvo stern drive I change the oil in, for many years, this is how I do it and I'm not the only one that does it this way. I gotta think the spurtjet would use the same plug configuration, so don't be surprised if you ever see one where the plugs are so tight you can't get them out using your properly-sized screwdriver. I have people out on the lake ask me about this all the time, wanting to know why they can't remove their gearbox drain plugs, and it's not b/c I was the one who installed them.

And some of the owners who change their oil themselves think it's normal to find water in their mercuriser stern drive housings until I explain to them it's not acceptable to find water in the gear oil and they need to do pressure/vacuum leak checks. Maybe they didn't get their plugs leak tight?
 
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The mercruiser threads are 3/8 x 16, no doubt the same for the sportjet.


Sorry... I forgot to look the other day.


But yes... the drains are 3/8-16, so a standard Merc oil pump will work.

FYI... the Sportjet drive is a BASTARD mix of Metric and Imperial. MOST, of the hardware is metric. But the legacy parts are Imperial. (Flats on the driveshaft, oil drains, etc)
 
And some of the owners who change their oil themselves think it's normal to find water in their mercuriser stern drive housings until I explain to them it's not acceptable to find water in the gear oil and they need to do pressure/vacuum leak checks. Maybe they didn't get their plugs leak tight?

I think we can agree to disagree about the impact driver.

You are absolutely correct about it not being acceptable to have water in the gear oil.

In my experience with the lower unit on my outboard, the water got in due to fishing line ruining the prop shaft seal. Never because I didn't use an impact driver on the drain/vent plugs.
 
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