Is it difficult to run new wires for accessories like nav lights and courtesy lights?

[Palm Bay Chuck]

I'm purchasing a used 00' Challenger 1800 which runs like a top, but there are issues with the internal electronics and I would like to rewire. Nav lights don't work. There is no radio, etc.

Do the wires run just bare inside the hull? Or is there a way to fish new wires to the various accessories then connect them to the MPEM? Where is the MPEM connection located by the way? I assume it's behind the instrument panel?

Please forgive me if there's already a good thread on this subject. I searched but could not find one. Thank you!

 

[Coastiejoe]

I'm purchasing a used 00' Challenger 1800 which runs like a top, but there are issues with the internal electronics and I would like to rewire. Nav lights don't work. There is no radio, etc.

Do the wires run just bare inside the hull? Or is there a way to fish new wires to the various accessories then connect them to the MPEM? Where is the MPEM connection located by the way? I assume it's behind the instrument panel?

Please forgive me if there's already a good thread on this subject. I searched but could not find one. Thank you!

Nav lights are normally fairly easy as the issue is normally the switch or the feed wire to the switch. No need to run all new wires.

 

[Palm Bay Chuck]

Nav lights are normally fairly easy as the issue is normally the switch or the feed wire to the switch. No need to run all new wires.

Thanks. But I get the feeling that I'm going to have to replace more items. I have a wiring diagram, so I know what connects to what, but I have no familiarity with the boats construction. Are there tubes or something through which wires are run? Or are they just freely run under the deck, perhaps even sitting in water that has accumulated in the bottom of the hull. Just not sure. I think I'll take deliver of the boat in a week or so. The last thing the seller is going to do is provide me with a test run. It started up and ran great in his back yard, but he is insisting on the trial run, which I approve of!

 

[Brian J]

A lot of boats will have the conduit you're asking about. They usually have a string in it too for pulling your own wires. Sorry I don't know if that specific model does.

During the test drive I'd let it idle in the middle of the lake and look in the seats and compartments to get an idea what you're dealing with.

 

[Palm Bay Chuck]

Thank you for the tip Brian. I'm going out tomorrow and I'll do just that.

 

[pwgsx]

Best tip is to remove all seatbacks, speakers, storage boxes, clean out the ski locker. You will find most wires run on the 2 sides as well as cross somewhere in the ski locker. Most are just wrapped in wire loom and zip tied to the hull.

 

[Palm Bay Chuck]

Thank you. I've got a plan now.

 

[pwgsx]

Not all seatbacks need to be removed, there are usually a few access holes behind certain seats.

 

[Brian J]

I should have mentioned on the topic of idling in the middle of the lake. Jet boats do not have neutral so I'd probably pull the reverse lever to minimize movement. Or the owner could sit in the drivers seat working the fwd/reverse. To break the awkward silence I'd tell him your checking to see how hard it's going to be to fix that broken nav light.

This test will also tell you if it overheats when sitting.

 

[Palm Bay Chuck]

Thanks for the advice Brian. It worked well. Started on the 2nd crank. No leaks. After an hour in the water, pulling the drain plugs, no water came out. I have to work on getting everything battened down better. Front seat cushions bounced around (I think I can use Velcro to make them stay in place). There is no radio and the running lights didn't work. Bilge pump and bilge ventilator worked fine. I need to do some work on the trailer because it's rusty. Overall, I'm totally stoked. What's even better is the fact that my wife loved it. That always helps.

Now I'm going to shine that puppy up and watch the 4th of July fireworks from the water!

 

[Brian J]

Good stuff, an hour long test drive is usually not feasible but definitely the way to go as a buyer. I love polishing and waxing a neglected boat back to life.

 

[Palm Bay Chuck]

I had to do yard work today, but went to West Marine to buy some rubbing compound and polish. I couldn't wait, so I tried just 1 square foot to see what it would look like and .... holy smokes! There's a new boat under the old boat! It shines up real nice. There's a lot of surface area to work with though. I figure it will take at last 2 12 packs to complete

Now, after I do the rubbing compound, then the polish, should I wax also?

 

[brutal]

I had to do yard work today, but went to West Marine to buy some rubbing compound and polish. I couldn't wait, so I tried just 1 square foot to see what it would look like and .... holy smokes! There's a new boat under the old boat! It shines up real nice. There's a lot of surface area to work with though. I figure it will take at last 2 12 packs to complete

Now, after I do the rubbing compound, then the polish, should I wax also?

Do yourself a favor and pick up some 3M finesse-it for the light work and, if needed for heavy oxidation or deep scratches, some 3M Imperial (now called Marine) compound. If the Imperial won't touch it, it needs 600 wet sand. Always test yourself in an inconspicuous area or on someone else's junk first.

Stuff is like butter.

I use a variable speed polisher with a wool bonnet. 600RPM for the heavy cut, up to 1500RPM for polishing. Follow with a good rub down of 303 and then 3M Marine wax.

Mmmmm, shiny.

 

[biffdotorg]

I'm purchasing a used 00' Challenger 1800 which runs like a top, but there are issues with the internal electronics and I would like to rewire. Nav lights don't work. There is no radio, etc.

Do the wires run just bare inside the hull? Or is there a way to fish new wires to the various accessories then connect them to the MPEM? Where is the MPEM connection located by the way? I assume it's behind the instrument panel?

Please forgive me if there's already a good thread on this subject. I searched but could not find one. Thank you!

2000 Challenger 1800/2000 should be a merc boat, so check out the rest of us red-headed stepchildren in the merc section.

I just changed out the rear sundeck release cable on mine, and found most of the wires. As mentioned above, you can pull the speakers out of the sides and see most are loosely zip tied in the gunnel.

Tip #1, get a fishtape. Quite a few of the wires can be used as a pull string to pull the fish tape through, then you can attach your new wires to the tape to pull back to the original location (if you insist on replacing the wires

Tip #2, avoid sticking your bare hands inside these holes or under decks. The unfinished fiberglass will give you some very painful slivers. That hurt going in and pulling out.

Tip #3, learn to test the wire, switches and lamps, as it makes little sense to replace a component that actually works.

I have found that my stern light is just a bit fussy sometimes. And it's all in the base mounted in the hull. This was found after testing. The switch and lamp are good, and there is no reason for the wire to go bad unless it was rubbed raw and corroded or shorted. So I may replace the base.

Good luck with your rig! Post some pics as some of us just aren't into reading.

 

[Palm Bay Chuck]

Thanks biffdotorg. I just realized, I've been spending time in the wrong forum! No wonder there was so much talk about the dual Rotax and very little about the Merc. Now I'll focus on the correct forum!