Installing engine on 1998 sportster

[bordercollie]

I'm finally getting around to installing the replacement engine I purchased off ebay (used). I did a compression check and it's testing out around 145 psi so I have my fingers crossed this is going to work (my last engine was seized).

A few questions.

1. I read through the shop manual and I'm sort of following how to use the degree wheel to position the rotary valve with MAG cylinder at TDC. My question is where is the "distributor" on these engines? And if not a distributor does it have a crank shaft sensor? How does the engine know when to fire?

2. It looks like I need a new carburetor as the old one is rather rusty (I guess it could be rebuilt...) Anyhow Seadoowarehouse says I need part # bn40-38-28 but they don't sell one? And the closest I can find is a BN40L on amazon that I'm not sure will work? Where is a good place to find a new carb?http://www.amazon.com/Mikuni-I-Seri...3236012&sr=8-1&keywords=carburetor+bn40-38-24

3. When installing the flywheel the manual shows a "puller plate" tool to stop the crankshaft from turning? I can't seem to find one on amazon and I'm thinking of buying a chain wrench from china freight for this purpose?

Thanks, everyone

 

[bordercollie]

Where's my boy Lou? Probably out on the lake with that hot girl in his profile pic. Not to complain here but it is sure doesn't seem like seadoo stands behind their products too well, I have no problem finding mercruiser parts/and engines......I guess your supposed to but a new boat every 10 years or so.

 

[FinnExplorer]

1. You should read the "electrical" part of the shop manual, that explains your question.

3. Maybe you could slide some narrow rope down to cylinder through spark plug hole. That might help. Be sure to leave enough rope outside of the engine

 

[bordercollie]

1. You should read the "electrical" part of the shop manual, that explains your question.

3. Maybe you could slide some narrow rope down to cylinder through spark plug hole. That might help. Be sure to leave enough rope outside of the engine

1. What is the point of these forums if the answer is go read the manual? Sometimes it's helpful to have things explained in layman's terms.

The problem I see with sticking rope into the cylinder head is if the rope were uneven you would be putting all the pressure on one side of the cylinder head and I don't think the engineers at Sea-doo-doo would approve of some Yahoo doing that.

And even if you did get the rope even it takes quite a bit of torque to tighten down the flywheel bolt, probably more than is exerted when these engines are running (basically you could break something). Just spend the extra hour or two and do the job right.

If I can't find a tool already made (like the one in the manual) then I can make one with a welder and plasma cutter

 

[dbracela]

The rope trick is a generally accepted method. Some people don't like it though. SBT has a video on youtube using a rag in the exhaust port to accomplish the same thing.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SUyay5mouhA

 

[racerxxx]

1. The manual will explain how the system works. It all works off the magneto/stator, no distributor. There is an adjustable plate inside the flywheel, pay attention on how it comes off the other engine and try and get it back as close as you can, reading the manual will tell you where to mark it---not being a wise ass but reading the manual will give you the precise little details like that BEFORE you just yank parts. I have built enough engines but I STILL follow the manual when doing the assembly.

2. http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=9&products_id=2809

3. The rope works fine, you're over thinking it. I use the rope and have never had any issues, and I'm sure 1000's of others have been too. Just bring which ever piston end your tightening up to TDC, then spin it back some, and fill up some rope and turn it back to wedge it and torque said item either flywheel or PTO. I have severed several rags and the rope works 110% of the time. But if you want to waste time or money here you go, http://www.jetskiplus.com/servlet/the-3349/SeaDoo-580-587-650/Detail I have a tig, mill and plasma at home and full access to a legit machine shop 24/7, the rope is cheaper.

 

[bordercollie]

1. The manual will explain how the system works. It all works off the magneto/stator, no distributor. There is an adjustable plate inside the flywheel, pay attention on how it comes off the other engine and try and get it back as close as you can, reading the manual will tell you where to mark it---not being a wise ass but reading the manual will give you the precise little details like that BEFORE you just yank parts. I have built enough engines but I STILL follow the manual when doing the assembly.

2. http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=9&products_id=2809

3. The rope works fine, you're over thinking it. I use the rope and have never had any issues, and I'm sure 1000's of others have been too. Just bring which ever piston end your tightening up to TDC, then spin it back some, and fill up some rope and turn it back to wedge it and torque said item either flywheel or PTO. I have severed several rags and the rope works 110% of the time. But if you want to waste time or money here you go, http://www.jetskiplus.com/servlet/the-3349/SeaDoo-580-587-650/Detail I have a tig, mill and plasma at home and full access to a legit machine shop 24/7, the rope is cheaper.

I already have a platform of 2 4x4's set up to mount these engines on so spending an extra hour making a tool for the flywheel is not a big deal. I was at China freight and found a trailer tongue that has a nice round hole in the center and 2 of the 3 predrilled holes already line up with flywheel!! Just drill/plasma cut one more hole, cut the sides off and weld on a stick.

But first I have to understand how these engines work, and it doesn't look like just matching up crankshaft with TDC on compression stoke and set distributor........the manual refers to a TDC gauge?? Why the heck don't they just put a mark on the crankshaft???

 

[jhjesse]

1. The manual will explain how the system works. It all works off the magneto/stator, no distributor. There is an adjustable plate inside the flywheel, pay attention on how it comes off the other engine and try and get it back as close as you can, reading the manual will tell you where to mark it---not being a wise ass but reading the manual will give you the precise little details like that BEFORE you just yank parts. I have built enough engines but I STILL follow the manual when doing the assembly.

2. http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=9&products_id=2809

3. The rope works fine, you're over thinking it. I use the rope and have never had any issues, and I'm sure 1000's of others have been too. Just bring which ever piston end your tightening up to TDC, then spin it back some, and fill up some rope and turn it back to wedge it and torque said item either flywheel or PTO. I have severed several rags and the rope works 110% of the time. But if you want to waste time or money here you go, http://www.jetskiplus.com/servlet/the-3349/SeaDoo-580-587-650/Detail I have a tig, mill and plasma at home and full access to a legit machine shop 24/7, the rope is cheaper.

racerxxx,
Ever tried this place for new carbs?
http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/seadoo/mikunicarbs.aspx

Bordercollie,
Sounds like an elaborate set up for installing a pto. Have any pics.

 

[racerxxx]

racerxxx,
Ever tried this place for new carbs?
http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/seadoo/mikunicarbs.aspx

Bordercollie,
Sounds like an elaborate set up for installing a pto. Have any pics.

Yep(not for carbs), called for rebuild kits 2 years ago when I did my first XP. No kits in stock, they didn't have a delivery date so I didn't have the time for them. They touted so much and delivered so little.

I just bought all my stuff from Nichecyclesupply.com on Ebay, awesome service and I had my stuff literally 2 days later. I think I ordered Wednesday at 3:15 pm and they shipped it that day---yes THAT DAY!!!!!!!!! and I had it Friday in my hands. The full carb kits were $48 I could have gotten them for either $42 or $45 I think else where but these guys had all the genuine jets and needle and seats in stock and they discounted the shipping for me. Their websites is the same price for the jets as ebay but the kits are $5 more but they will give you free shipping over $100 so in the end they might be the same price as everywhere else with shipping if you follow. Customer service is what does it for me and these guys nailed it, it also helps that a guy local to me uses these guys and says they have great CS and ship that day. I was going to get the kits that OSDparts.com puts together but by the time I added it up it was only like $20 more and I got all the formed gaskets which they have you reuse your old ones--which I do not have and I like all new if I'm doing it.


I would just go to www.osdparts.com for the carbs--again stellar customer service, they just shipped the parts I ordered from them on late Wednesday and I got them today.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/niche-cycle

 

[jhjesse]

Yep(not for carbs), called for rebuild kits 2 years ago when I did my first XP. No kits in stock, they didn't have a delivery date so I didn't have the time for them. They touted so much and delivered so little.

I just bought all my stuff from Nichecyclesupply.com on Ebay, awesome service and I had my stuff literally 2 days later. I think I ordered Wednesday at 3:15 pm and they shipped it that day---yes THAT DAY!!!!!!!!! and I had it Friday in my hands. The full carb kits were $48 I could have gotten them for either $42 or $45 I think else where but these guys had all the genuine jets and needle and seats in stock and they discounted the shipping for me. Their websites is the same price for the jets as ebay but the kits are $5 more but they will give you free shipping over $100 so in the end they might be the same price as everywhere else with shipping if you follow. Customer service is what does it for me and these guys nailed it, it also helps that a guy local to me uses these guys and says they have great CS and ship that day. I was going to get the kits that OSDparts.com puts together but by the time I added it up it was only like $20 more and I got all the formed gaskets which they have you reuse your old ones--which I do not have and I like all new if I'm doing it.


I would just go to www.osdparts.com for the carbs--again stellar customer service, they just shipped the parts I ordered from them on late Wednesday and I got them today.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/niche-cycle

Thanks for the info. Customer service does it for me, as well. Probably put them on the back burner when I have carb needs.

 

[FinnExplorer]

1. What is the point of these forums if the answer is go read the manual? Sometimes it's helpful to have things explained in layman's terms.

The problem I see with sticking rope into the cylinder head is if the rope were uneven you would be putting all the pressure on one side of the cylinder head and I don't think the engineers at Sea-doo-doo would approve of some Yahoo doing that.

And even if you did get the rope even it takes quite a bit of torque to tighten down the flywheel bolt, probably more than is exerted when these engines are running (basically you could break something). Just spend the extra hour or two and do the job right.

If I can't find a tool already made (like the one in the manual) then I can make one with a welder and plasma cutter

Sorry if my answer wasn't quite what you were looking for... I had written long explanation how the ignition system works but since I'm not a native english speaker it was a mess to read and understand, so I edited it all off. The shop manual, which you already seem to have access to has much better explanation on how things work. For the third question, I must be having dementia or something but i can't remember how I did it last summer when my engine was in pieces. But the rope-method is very common way to do it. You could of course make or buy all the special tools suggested in shop manual if you like to. It's up to you...