This is my first boat and have never been around motors. i already made a thread saying i had a problem and karl told me to check the accelerator pump because it is dying at 2000 rpm or jumping straight to 4000 depending on how fast i accelerate. I have no clue where it is and don't know really where to look at the manuals. Will someone let me know how to do this and am wanting to keep this boat running good and was wondering should i buy all xp-s brand lubricants and oils and was also wanting to know what works for everyone else. thanks to anyone that can help.
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In Over My Head!!!!!!
- Thread starter masonf24
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Mason, if you go to the manual to the fuel section on carburetors, it will give you a "step by step how to" to take apart and re-assemble the carbs. If you still seem confused we are here to help you get back on track. I'll search for the other threads on the forum to see what seadoo you have as I forget, and it's not listed in your avatar. I'll give you the correct section and page numbers to help you out, if you want. We won't leave you stranded. If you want to PM me directly that's ok too.
As far as oil I would stay with the Xp-S seadoo oils. It is recommended and the boat has been running on it so far in it's life so I would keep it the same. I check on the proper oil too as it could be mineral or synthetic, (after I see what doo you own again.)
I got your boat specs 1997 1800 challenger
Karl
As far as oil I would stay with the Xp-S seadoo oils. It is recommended and the boat has been running on it so far in it's life so I would keep it the same. I check on the proper oil too as it could be mineral or synthetic, (after I see what doo you own again.)
I got your boat specs 1997 1800 challenger
Karl
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Mason, go to the 1997 seadoo Jet Boat manual. Click on the first manual on the page. Let it load , enter the password...click on bookmarks on the left side of the page. Now click on "05 Fuel Systems". This starts on page 123 of the manual. These pages explain disassembly of the carbs and goes through the fuel pump and the internals of the carburetors. Read the pages till you understand what you have to do. I will be available to help you if you get in a jam. Send me a pm...it's on the top left side of the page under privet messages. (I don't know if you familiar with pm). It's good reading with great pictures you can download and print them off to see while you working on the carbs.
We'll get it running for the weekend!
Karl
We'll get it running for the weekend!
Karl
Gunsrunner
New Member
Photo's
Here you go Mason, took some photo's, hope this helps. Wish i had taken some when i rebuilt my carbies! Accelerator pump is the bit with the two small fuel lines.
Here you go Mason, took some photo's, hope this helps. Wish i had taken some when i rebuilt my carbies! Accelerator pump is the bit with the two small fuel lines.
scrump
New Member
Different
Those engines look much different than mine, different boat than mine so I expected that, but there is a large difference. Back fire arrestor / air intake and carbs look very similiar though. One thing to keep in mind is that you have to take off the back fire arrestor / air intake in order to get to the carbs. I had a hard time with this when I first tore out my carbs, it seemed very complicated for about an hour until I realized how simple it is. Take the top off, unscrew the allen bolts that surround the metal mesh filter and the the whole unit will pop off. Once this is done everything is very self explanatory, the bolts to remove are visible and so are all fuel lines to the carb, it puts things into perspective.
In my opinion I think you should go ahead and clean the carbs while you got it apart, that can also cause low revs. Once you start digging around you will realize that it's not that hard. Also keep in mind when you take the carb apart that you have to be careful not to tear the rubber gaskets, I used berryman b-12 to clean out my carbs and also used my air compressor to blow out the injection ports that you will see in your diagram. (Don't clean the rubber gaskets with carb cleaner....it makes them do strange things
) I know you are looking for the accelerator pump, but you might as well clean those bad boy carbs while your at it. Let us know if you have any problems, everyone here will be very helpful. Hope this helps and good luck!! :cheers:
scrump
Those engines look much different than mine, different boat than mine so I expected that, but there is a large difference. Back fire arrestor / air intake and carbs look very similiar though. One thing to keep in mind is that you have to take off the back fire arrestor / air intake in order to get to the carbs. I had a hard time with this when I first tore out my carbs, it seemed very complicated for about an hour until I realized how simple it is. Take the top off, unscrew the allen bolts that surround the metal mesh filter and the the whole unit will pop off. Once this is done everything is very self explanatory, the bolts to remove are visible and so are all fuel lines to the carb, it puts things into perspective.
In my opinion I think you should go ahead and clean the carbs while you got it apart, that can also cause low revs. Once you start digging around you will realize that it's not that hard. Also keep in mind when you take the carb apart that you have to be careful not to tear the rubber gaskets, I used berryman b-12 to clean out my carbs and also used my air compressor to blow out the injection ports that you will see in your diagram. (Don't clean the rubber gaskets with carb cleaner....it makes them do strange things
) I know you are looking for the accelerator pump, but you might as well clean those bad boy carbs while your at it. Let us know if you have any problems, everyone here will be very helpful. Hope this helps and good luck!! :cheers:scrump
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Retarded
ok your going to think i am retarded, i decided to check the accelerator pump tonight and when i was about to remove the plastic black piece above the carbs i noticed the little hole didn't have a rubber plug in it like the other one did. so i took it off the other one and guess what, ran like a champ!!!! so i guess if anyone says there boat is stalling from 2000rpm to 4000rpm make sure they have the little rubber plug. thanks for all of your help even though it was something extremely small.:cheers:
ok your going to think i am retarded, i decided to check the accelerator pump tonight and when i was about to remove the plastic black piece above the carbs i noticed the little hole didn't have a rubber plug in it like the other one did. so i took it off the other one and guess what, ran like a champ!!!! so i guess if anyone says there boat is stalling from 2000rpm to 4000rpm make sure they have the little rubber plug. thanks for all of your help even though it was something extremely small.:cheers:
We can only see what you type, and my esp (Extra Sensory Perception)isn't working to good these days...I am so glad you got it working!!! Go have some fun this weekend, you deserve it! :cheers:
Karl
:cheers:Karl
Gunsrunner
New Member
Well, I'm glad it's running like a trooper, but i need one thing cleared up!
Are you talking about the little blue plug you can see in the top of the airbox?
I suppose it could have been disrupting airflow's, but i dont think this would cause enough turbulance to be your problem, it is just a hole to spay lube into, the box itself is open to the atmosphere by large holes at the back of the airbox.
You may have dislodged something when you were poking around, or something cleared, glad it worked!!:hurray:
Are you talking about the little blue plug you can see in the top of the airbox?
I suppose it could have been disrupting airflow's, but i dont think this would cause enough turbulance to be your problem, it is just a hole to spay lube into, the box itself is open to the atmosphere by large holes at the back of the airbox.
You may have dislodged something when you were poking around, or something cleared, glad it worked!!:hurray:
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scrump
New Member
Rubber Plug
:agree: It seems that would not make much of a difference, I'm not trying to be negative, but that should not have any effect.
I know that when my 99 speedster was doing something similiar, I thought I fixed it when I changed out the fuel filters, but when I got to the lake it started reving low again. I hope all goes well, but if that only temporarily fixed the problem then let us know.
scrump
:agree: It seems that would not make much of a difference, I'm not trying to be negative, but that should not have any effect.
I know that when my 99 speedster was doing something similiar, I thought I fixed it when I changed out the fuel filters, but when I got to the lake it started reving low again. I hope all goes well, but if that only temporarily fixed the problem then let us know.scrump
It sounds too good to be true...post a picture so we know what you saw.
Karl
Karl
ok ok ok you guys are too GOOD, i only checked it in the drive way but then took it to the river all day yesterday and today and same problem was occuring!!!! i have a little more detail now that i have driven it more. one engine idles at 1500rpm (like it should) and the other one is at 1000 to 1200rpm. i have noticed that if both engines do not cross 2000 rpm at the same time the one that crosses it second will die. this happens to the left or right engine. so i guess since one has more rpm it won't let the other get any???? just let me know what you think and if you think it is still the accelerator pump. and is there a way to increase the idle rpm on just one engine, i have read the there is only one idle screw for the two carbs. thanks!!!!:rant:
scrump
New Member
masonf24,
ESP.................or maybe just been there done that
More than likely it is not going to be the throttle cable, although it is not a bad thing to check, just incase. What you explained sounds very familiar to a problem I had. My problem was fixed by cleaning the carbs, cleaning the accelarator pump and changing out the fuel filters. With one engine running good and the other not it will drain power from the engine that is working well. (It just makes the other engine work harder to get you going) You probably already noticed that it was harder to turn in the directon of the engine that is not performing properly. I would start by getting those carbs off and doing a good thorough cleaning, more than likely that is your problem. Just sounds like it is being starved for fuel. You may also notice more smoke coming from the engine that is running poorly. Like was said earlier, if you need any help or questions getting this done let us know and good luck. :cheers:
scrump
ESP.................or maybe just been there done that
More than likely it is not going to be the throttle cable, although it is not a bad thing to check, just incase. What you explained sounds very familiar to a problem I had. My problem was fixed by cleaning the carbs, cleaning the accelarator pump and changing out the fuel filters. With one engine running good and the other not it will drain power from the engine that is working well. (It just makes the other engine work harder to get you going) You probably already noticed that it was harder to turn in the directon of the engine that is not performing properly. I would start by getting those carbs off and doing a good thorough cleaning, more than likely that is your problem. Just sounds like it is being starved for fuel. You may also notice more smoke coming from the engine that is running poorly. Like was said earlier, if you need any help or questions getting this done let us know and good luck. :cheers:
scrump
Gunsrunner
New Member
Are you able to run the motors at full song once you get them past the 2000rpm mark?
The idle screw you refer to is only one for the two carbies, but you have 4 carbies, 2 on each motor.
It does sound like a fuel problem, almost like a flat spot, i would be checking the fuel system from tank to carbies, dont forget fuel baffle inside tank(be careful) and vent. The reason we keep going on about the carbies is that the kits to fix them are quite cheap and it is easy to do. Not only could it fix your problem but it will make it run better in the long run as well.
the only other thing i could say would cause this is voltage(spark), if you have a multimeter this is easy to check, run one motor at a time and check the voltage at the battery before and after it is started you should see a .5 to 1 volt jump in voltage at 3000rpm. Mine sits on 12.7v when not running and goes to 13.3v at 3000rpm and 13.9v at 5000rpm, another easy thing to check!
Keep trying you will get it!!
P.S. You will get tired of hanging upside down in the bilge, i took the sundeck off the last time i had to pull the motor out!!!:rofl:
The idle screw you refer to is only one for the two carbies, but you have 4 carbies, 2 on each motor.
It does sound like a fuel problem, almost like a flat spot, i would be checking the fuel system from tank to carbies, dont forget fuel baffle inside tank(be careful) and vent. The reason we keep going on about the carbies is that the kits to fix them are quite cheap and it is easy to do. Not only could it fix your problem but it will make it run better in the long run as well.
the only other thing i could say would cause this is voltage(spark), if you have a multimeter this is easy to check, run one motor at a time and check the voltage at the battery before and after it is started you should see a .5 to 1 volt jump in voltage at 3000rpm. Mine sits on 12.7v when not running and goes to 13.3v at 3000rpm and 13.9v at 5000rpm, another easy thing to check!
Keep trying you will get it!!
P.S. You will get tired of hanging upside down in the bilge, i took the sundeck off the last time i had to pull the motor out!!!:rofl:
Mason I reread your #1 post....it is about a fuel related problem...Have you cleaned your carbs? That was the first diagnosis.
Karl
Karl
scrump
New Member
Just start taking it apart, the manual will give you step by step instructions, as said earlier once you start you will see that it is not that hard. You should have it running by this weekend if all goes well. I use berrymen b-12 to clean my carbs, but I would think that any carb cleaner would work.
:cheers:
:cheers:
Yes any carb cleaner will work. Take note to the settings to the low speed screw( the one with the pin through it) it should be at the same setting when you re-assemble. Count the exact turns, or partial turns, it takes to turn it all the way in. Both carbs should be the same. Write it down so you won't forget. The one with the plastic cap is the high speed it is set at "O", give or take a 1/4 turn check that too. Leave the plastic cap on when you re-assemble. You can use any carb cleaner available, they are all the same ...cheaper the better. Give us a shout if you have questions...Read the manual, so you know what you have to do before you start the cleaning...first.
Karl
Karl
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