impeller hitting housing

[Linwoodinmaine]

I have a jet ski it is a SeaDoo 1997 GTS with the 5018 motor last year when I took it out there was not a lot of thrust to the jet ski so I thought it was the ware ring so i replace that with the new OEM part and realized that the old wear ring stuck out a bit they had also glued the whole unit in with a lot of permatex gasket former when I went to install it again the plastic is on the housing or cracked so ended up getting a whole new lower unit when I installed this one it wouldn't turn over and I believe the prop is hitting the metal housing I've replaced the gasket between them but don't know what to do, it's still hitting.

 

[POPPS]

More than likely ,,you have jamed the thrust washer,,,we have all done it,,,you need to remove the prop,,,check that the thrust washer and bearing are okay,,,and then when you install the prop,,,continually move the pump up and down,,,that it is always spinning freely without binding.all the way till the prop is tightened.

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

I never took any of this lower unit apart, bought it used and replaced my old unit. My old unit looked like they used the wrong ware ring (becouse it stuck out about 1/2 inch past the housing) and after i replaced the ware ring with a new one the prop would turn until tightened to jetski just like the replacement one i bought. the prop spins freely until bolted to the jet ski.

 

[etemplet]

Sure does look like that impeller sticks out a bit much. I'm just curious, since you did not pull the pump apart are you certain the impeller is the correct one?

Did you check the PTO hole to make sure it was clean and clear? Sometimes the old rubber bumper gets stuck in there. What you can do is remove the bumper from the PTO end of the shaft and resintall the shaft on the pump and check the end play by moving the shaft back and forth. Good Luck

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

I have taken the shaft out and bolted the pump back on, and impeller spins by hand until i tighten it down. When I bought the new (used)one it looked identical to the old one. I thought the shaft was maybe replaced with a longer one becouse the ware ring on the old unit stuck out a bit passed the housing there was alot of space between the impeller and the ware ring on the old unit so replaced it. The new one was a bit shorter and look just like the replacement when put back together with new ware ring.

 

[etemplet]

Remove one of the rubbers on the shaft and install the pump. After tightening try to move the shaft back and forth. You should have some play (fore and aft). I haven't measured one in a while but I believe each rubber bumper is 3/16". Put a mark on the shaft and determine the amount of freeplay.

How much slack do you have in the pump? .020" is close to the amount of end-play you need as measured at the impeller.

Good Luck.

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

If I have jamed the thrust washer will the prop still spin by hand?

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

If I just bolt the pump to the jet ski, with no shaft it will spin until I torque it down?

 

[POPPS]

The prop shaft will not turn,,,remove the prop,,,and reinstall, while lifting and spinning the housing at the same time.

 

[etemplet]

Check the thrust bearing on the pump. I freakin ruined one. The bearing came off the fit when I installed it and the ID was out of shape (I replaced it). I felt it when I tightened the impeller. That's why the procedure is to take a thrust reading on the impeller when it is assembled. .021" or there abouts. Good Luck

 

[etemplet]

If I have jamed the thrust washer will the prop still spin by hand?

do you have end play on the impeller?

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

how much end play is normal?

 

[etemplet]

With the impeller bolted up and torqued I think .020" With the impeller not installed... I think around .040" Check the repair manual. If the cone is installed it will be a little more difficult to get a reading on some skis, because of the spring anti-rattle parts. Good Luck !

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

I checked both end of the shaft ( Pump & PTO ) both are clean with no bumpers. The impeller does have some play front to back but need to really push to get it to go back then the spring pushes it back forward in place. I have included photos and was going to include a video of the impeller being pushed back then coming forward again, but it was not supported . I'm going to clean the gasket material off and bolt it back together with no bumpers to make sure there is play in the shaft. would you do anything different? Thanks for all the help.

 

[etemplet]

You won't add much end play with the gasket being removed but I'd leave it on. The end play you describe sounds about right. You are pushing against a spring. End play is good, excessive end play is a concern. That's why the measurement and the .020" Good Luck !

 

[POPPS]

With the pump in a vice.,,shaft end in,,,as long as you can spin the pump easily on the shaft you are golden,,.the newer springs apply way more pressure on the prop shaft,,there is no need to take measurements,,,i have never ever taken a measurement,,,the earlier springs were the best,,,noisy on the trailor,,but less friction in the water,,i could sharpen the blades and rotate the prop without cutting myself,,,

 

[etemplet]

I don't take measurments unless I doesn't feel right. Key is... the shaft should move back and forth 1/16" + a tad. If you can't move it back and forth you need to determine why.

 

[POPPS]

Sorry,,,am a bit confused,,,do you mean the drive shaft,,,or the impellor sfaft?

 

[etemplet]

Sorry,,,am a bit confused,,,do you mean the drive shaft,,,or the impellor sfaft?

My last post was concerning the impeller shaft. Just making sure it has a tad of end play.. As you say with the newer Anti-Rattle mechanisms... it's more difficult to check. Nothing against your check... I probably have not cut my hand enough yet. Ha ha. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

I put the pump back on today and the engine turns over until I tighten the pump down, there is plenty of play in the shaft. I think the impeller is hitting the shoe, the neopream gasket is not an original and is just a thin ring of adhesive foam. some one told me to get an original one. I remember the old wear ring stuck out past the housing of the pump around a 1/4 to 1/2 an inch but I replaced it and the one I replaced it with looks just like the one in the used pump I bought. the old pump and new pump are exactly the same but the old wear ring stuck out a bit past the housing?

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

will the opening in the shoe be a hair larger then the impeller? or will the shims keep the pump out a bit so the impeller will not hit the shoe?

 

[clegg]

I just had this problem with a GTX RFI that I had just acquired. I installed a new wear ring as the existing one was worn and spinning.

So I installed the new wear ring and reassembled everything. I hit the start button to check it out and it acted like a low battery. I changed out with 2 other batteries and still not turning, upon rechecking the pump area the engine would turn with the 4 nuts loosened a bit.

I took all apart and installed another rfi impeller that I had. Reassembled and voila, the engine turned over and all good.

The other impeller didn't appear to have any defects but as long as the other one is turning this one will go in the garbage.

 

[POPPS]

I have on occasion had props in new wear rings that were difficult to turn, ,but the thrust washer was not jammed,,,just a super tight fit,,,so i spray silicone in there, even apply grease,,,and turn the housing till it is 80 percent free,,,a running motor will do the rest,,,the benefit is that you have super close clearance between the prop outter blades and the wear ring

 

[etemplet]

Check your shaft... maybe it is not the correct one. some are a tad longer than others.

 

[Linwoodinmaine]

The prop is hitting something, when I tighten it down it will not turn even without the shaft installed