Im screwed...

[imnothot02]

SO I baught a 95 Speedster, took it out before i paid for it, its awsome runinng and driving boat, however now I see that its leaking around my propeller shaft, AND it looks like it has been RE-Fiberglassed before, like the nipple that the boot goes on to broke off, any clue how ya could fix this!? I think i bought a $3000 yard ornament...

 

[kustomkarl]

Don't panic!!! It can be fixed. I would remove the boot on the shaft to get a better look at the area. You might be able to repair it without removing the jet pump assembly. It depends on how bad it is. Have you ever worked with fiberglass before? It isn't real hard and you will get the hang of it pretty quick if you haven't. Any chance to post pictures here so we can get a look at it? If it looks like a bigger job than you want to tackle than you could get a body shop to do the repair if you pull the jet pump out your self. It isn't a big deal to remove the jet pump...Get me pictures and we'll go from there. I have fixed tons of wrecked Racing Water Craft...

Karl

 

[scooper77515]

Fiberglass is easy...it is just glue. Figure out where you need to put it, mix it up, and put it there. Wait a couple hours, and go riding.

No problem...

 

[kustomkarl]

Fiberglass is easy...it is just glue. Figure out where you need to put it, mix it up, and put it there. Wait a couple hours, and go riding.

No problem...

It is easy...this area needs to be real smooth and round to keep leaks out of the shaft area...

 

[imnothot02]

Ill get some pictures tommrow, its dark at the moment, any idea where else the water could be coming from, the thing took on like 10-20 galons of water in like 20 min.

Possibly would this be caused by stoping fast, i was going for a min then stop ect, the whole time checking some things out, sorry for all the questions Im just new to the whole jet boat thing...

 

[kustomkarl]

Don't worry about the questions, that's how we learn. I would put it in the water and look for a leak.That's a lot of water. Make sure the rear plugs are tight and not leaking in water. If you don't see the leaks it might be a cooling line that is not connected and pumping water into the boat and not cooling the engine. Float it first then run it and keep looking in the rear of the boat.

Karl

 

[imnothot02]

ah thats a good idea, Im kinda leaning twards leting my local dealer check it out, yea it won't be cheap, but id rather know that the boat is in good working order... it seems awsome starts up immedeatly very fast and responsive, dont hear any clanking in the motors ect.. wonder if anybody lives in the Cedar Rapids / Iowa area that is good w/ these boats... thanks for all you guys helping me out!

 

[kustomkarl]

Go to this web site " www.seadoo.com " click on the link at the top left locate dealer. Add your zip code and you'll get a platinum seadoo dealer with a map, web site, phone# and hours of operation. Also there is a parts listing of all the parts and part numbers on this site. Just click on the seadoo you own with the year and model...

Karl

 

[imnothot02]

i think ill buy the 60 dollar year membership on here so that I can check all the hoses, then I can get the service manual... cuz, yea thats a ton of water, im realy confused on where it would be coming from...

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is some info;If you want you could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[imnothot02]

good deal, im a worry wart proaly, but i can't stand having a truck motorcycle boat or even a lawn mower, that im not sure that its in top operating order...

 

[kustomkarl]

That's how I feel. I looked all over the web for a manual before I found this place back in Sept. 07 This is the best deal I have found any place. I ordered a service manual from my Seadoo Dealer for my 08 200speedster for my own use...cost me $82.00 in paper back...what a rip! The Seadoo forum doesn't have a Full Manual for the speedster yet. Just one for the 4-tec engine. I have a manual for my 1997 Challenger I got here what a deal...$10.95 now I use my membership to help other members repair there problems every month.

 

[imnothot02]

oh, bummer, i guess the membership won't help me much then

 

[kustomkarl]

The manual for your boat is in the library...but the new 2008 Speedster isn't yet at this time. The manual for the engine 4-tec is, but the complete manual for MY model isn't yet.

Karl

 

[imnothot02]

ah, gotcha, yea thats sweet, i need to find out hwere all the water lines go ect, would also like to figure out if there is a good way to change out my bilge, there is alot of stuff down there, leaves small stuff that id like to clean out...


On a side note I read alot of posts on here somthing about changing out all my fuel lines... they dont seem to be in bad shape, dont't see any cracks ect...

***EDIT***
Im also having a problem, trying to put new tires on my trailer, 2 of the wheel studs spin cant get the nut off, change the whole hub? any iders on that?

 

[imnothot02]

***UPDATE***

Found the old Seadoo mechanic here localy, he now owns his own shop, turns out the leak I was seeing is because of the carbon fiber inside the rubber boot being bad? Idk he knows his stuff tho gna pull both props and change it all out! Wear ring is bad on one side, IDK how he knows this but glad I had him look at her!

 

[kustomkarl]

Ok 02, sound like you have a good mechanic working on the seadoo. Let me know if we can help with anything else you want to tackle yourself. As far as the trailer wheels nuts being striped...cut them off and you can get the replacement studs at Auto Zone. They should be able to be hit out with a hammer. they come out the rear of the hub. You might have to heat the hub up to get it to expand while you hit the old stud with a heavy duty hammer. It's a lot cheaper than replacing the complete hub. Check the bearings and rear seal while it is apart. Replace them if needed or at least re-pack the bearings. Keep us posted on any other problems you have...
Karl