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IBR actuator

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jake04

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how difficult is it to replace an IBR Actuator on a 2009 GTX 255 Limited-is???? Dealer says mine is bad a they want $1550 + tax.
 
Anything on suspension skis is generally no fun to work on.

If it were mine, I'd find a way to confirm the issue. Many dealers are parts swappers. Not all, but enough that it can be scary,,, and expensive.

Did you have a code? What is your complaint?
 
fault codes c2113 & p1661. Don't really have a complaint, just sticker shock at the cost of the repair.
 
As a unit, it is a very expensive part. I would do some serious digging and find a used part if at all possible. It seems strange to me that the only coed you have is an overheat code. If the IBR is not working, I would think that you would get a Module or Actuator type code. If it were mine, I would check to see if all the parts are getting voltage and do some form of a reset. Pull the batter, unplug IBR stuff ect ect...
 
You can get to it by removing the rear hatch then the storage bucket opposite the fire extinguisher. It is right there so you can get to all the hoses and bolts relatively easy. Not a bad job.
You will have to move the bailer tubes out of the way by cutting the zip tie that holds them to the IBR actuator housing.
Be very careful when re attaching the hoses. Check, double check, and triple check hose connections for squareness and tightness. If one of those hoses blows off it will fill your ski in just a couple minutes...don't ask. :facepalm:

With Your ski being a 2009 model, I would try to get a new one. If I remember correctly the new ones are upgraded from the earlier IBR's. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
 
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Just checked the parts fisch. The original part number is no longer available. The upgraded version is available now instead for about $1150.00
 
Holy Moly, there are no bailer tubes going to the Ibr actuator there are cooling tubes, one in one out. One coming in from the jet pump, pressurized, one going out to cool other components which eventually is expelled thru exhaust. The exhaust flushing back flushes this system so when you back flush water should come out of the jet pump if it is not the system is plugged and you won't get ibr actuator cooling which could cause a ibr overheat. Important to regularly flush your exhaust to make sure your cooling system is functional. The ibr system in a Seadoo is complicated to say the least. Unless you have a service manual and a buds reader I would leave
 
Holy Moly, there are no bailer tubes going to the Ibr actuator there are cooling tubes, one in one out. One coming in from the jet pump, pressurized, one going out to cool other components which eventually is expelled thru exhaust. The exhaust flushing back flushes this system so when you back flush water should come out of the jet pump if it is not the system is plugged and you won't get ibr actuator cooling which could cause a ibr overheat. Important to regularly flush your exhaust to make sure your cooling system is functional. The ibr system in a Seadoo is complicated to say the least. Unless you have a service manual and a buds reader I would leave

Didn't say there was. I said the bailer tubes are attached to the outside of the IBR housing...the IBR motor and he will need to move them out of the way not disconnect.....
The OP wasn't asking if he had an IBR problem. He was asking how hard it is to change it out himself rather than pay a dealer.
 
My bad, on the bailer tubes jh. Just thought when your swapping a $1100 part and your not a dealer it would be a good idea to have some idea why it failed in the first place. Like a $2.00 gate bushing. He had two posts going.
 
Also, a brand new actuator will not work at all until you have the dealer use BUDS to synchronize it with the module.

Chester
 
[MENTION=86524]jake04[/MENTION]. On eBay right now. Item Number. 182288795349

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