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i don' know what the problem is
- Thread starter atlantis6
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I don't know your entire problem, but just because you do a bench test on a starter, does not mean it's good.
The starter is a high torque electric motor, designed to run for 30 seconds at a time. Anymore than that and you can heat it up and melt the windings.
As long as you can apply power to the starter and it spin, that only means your magnetic polarity works, your brushes aren't quite gone. But, when you try to add the ability of that motor to be geared to a flywheel, turning over an engine with over 140 lbs of torque per cylinder, you change the ball game.
Have you tried to remove all the spark plugs and turn the starter over? If the starter turns the motor, however slightly, with the plugs out, but not with them in, then replace the starter.
The starter is a high torque electric motor, designed to run for 30 seconds at a time. Anymore than that and you can heat it up and melt the windings.
As long as you can apply power to the starter and it spin, that only means your magnetic polarity works, your brushes aren't quite gone. But, when you try to add the ability of that motor to be geared to a flywheel, turning over an engine with over 140 lbs of torque per cylinder, you change the ball game.
Have you tried to remove all the spark plugs and turn the starter over? If the starter turns the motor, however slightly, with the plugs out, but not with them in, then replace the starter.
I'm at work and no access to my shop manual for the Merc... but, if memory serves me right, you have a fairly large wire that taps into your starter; that is the hot wire. Then, of course, you have your solenoid wires.
Try this, just to trouble shoot. You said the bench test was good, so if you have a large gage copper wire, like the kind you see on jumper cables, cut a section of this wire, put lugs on it that you can run from the battery to the starter. Remove a bolt that holds your starter to the block, attach the ground lug you just created to it, then the other to your ground lug of the battery. You will still leave your batter wires that are already there, connected.
When you do this, you are only testing to see that your engine is properly grounded so that your starter is getting it's ground to operate. Starter motors usually only have one hot (+) lead to them, they get their ground from being bolted to the block.
If you do this and your starter motor turns over, then you have a problem with something like your solenoid either bad or not wired properly. Or worse, you have one of your motors electrical sensors that is either bad, or has found a reason it is not allowing you a start.
Let us know what you find out.......
Try this, just to trouble shoot. You said the bench test was good, so if you have a large gage copper wire, like the kind you see on jumper cables, cut a section of this wire, put lugs on it that you can run from the battery to the starter. Remove a bolt that holds your starter to the block, attach the ground lug you just created to it, then the other to your ground lug of the battery. You will still leave your batter wires that are already there, connected.
When you do this, you are only testing to see that your engine is properly grounded so that your starter is getting it's ground to operate. Starter motors usually only have one hot (+) lead to them, they get their ground from being bolted to the block.
If you do this and your starter motor turns over, then you have a problem with something like your solenoid either bad or not wired properly. Or worse, you have one of your motors electrical sensors that is either bad, or has found a reason it is not allowing you a start.
Let us know what you find out.......
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
No... the regulator only feeds power back to the battery.
The starter system is very simple. The solenoid is the high current switch for the starter. The key, is the low current switch for the solenoid.
So... basically, there are only 3 parts to the system. (other than the battery and some wires).
If you turn the key:
You should have power to the solinoid. AND... you should see it turn on and off with a meter, as you turn the key, on and off.
If that checks:
You should hear the solenoid clicking... and power will turn on and off on the big lug going to the starter.
If that checks:
Then the starter should spin. If it doesn't... it's bad. OR... the battery is weak. OR... one of the big power cables is burnt/corroded internally.
With that all said... aftermarket starters SUCK !!! and... some of the ones coming out of China are known to not work out of the box. So... did you get an import, or did you get a new OEM Quicksilver/Mercury starter?
The starter system is very simple. The solenoid is the high current switch for the starter. The key, is the low current switch for the solenoid.
So... basically, there are only 3 parts to the system. (other than the battery and some wires).
If you turn the key:
You should have power to the solinoid. AND... you should see it turn on and off with a meter, as you turn the key, on and off.
If that checks:
You should hear the solenoid clicking... and power will turn on and off on the big lug going to the starter.
If that checks:
Then the starter should spin. If it doesn't... it's bad. OR... the battery is weak. OR... one of the big power cables is burnt/corroded internally.
With that all said... aftermarket starters SUCK !!! and... some of the ones coming out of China are known to not work out of the box. So... did you get an import, or did you get a new OEM Quicksilver/Mercury starter?
Batteries and connections are crucial....
Glad you have it running and you can enjoy the boat now..
Glad you have it running and you can enjoy the boat now..
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Well.... That would do it. (lol)
I wish it was warm enough to play with my boat... but there was still some snow flakes flying around today.
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