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Hydrolocked followed by low compression

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NickCawks

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Hey guys, I've been fiddling around with this for a little bit and I am ready to eat my shame and ask for some direction.

My 720 XP was running great all day a couple of weeks ago. I handed it off to my cousin and after about an hour of thinking "well something has definitely gone wrong", I see him getting towed into the dock. When he arrives he informs me that it just stopped and wouldn't start back up even though he cranked and cranked on it.

My first question to him was to see if he made sure to turn the bilge on every couple of minutes during the tow. He said he did. My second question was what happened. As a non-mechanically inclined person, his explanation was little to no help. Simply it died than wouldn't start again. He had no info on what happened beforehand.

With that, I went ahead and put a rope on the front loop then drug it over to the ramp and put it on the trailer. It was a solid week later until I had the opportunity to get into it and see what was going on.

When I did get that chance I discovered that the crank would spin about 1/4th of a turn then lock up going either way. My thought now is that it got hydro locked from the tow. At the time I did not know you were supposed to pinch off the waterline, but it wouldn't have mattered either way as he was the one on the ski. So I went ahead and sprayed some oil down the cylinder then let it sit overnight. The next morning I grabbed the PTO with a chain wrench and forced it to spin. This took very little effort it was not as if I was having to put a ton of torque into the PTO to unlock it, but just a slight amount of constant pressure followed by a pop and the thing was free spinning again.

At this point, in my mind, the most logical thing to do was to a compression test. I did so. 130 on the PTO side 60 on the mag side (UHG! what a forceful facepalm came next). -As a disclaimer before you guys jump all over me about it. I live in Colorado. 130 is the HIGHEST compression test I have ever pulled on either cylinder due to the altitude even when the motor was brand new.

So my questions following this completely uninspiring and disappointing story:

1: I have read on a few threads that following a hydro lock there is some potential that you can get it back on the water and run it at WOT for 20-30 minutes. This may or may not clear the water and allow the piston ring to re-seat to the cylinder. Is there any truth to this? In the garage, I am able to get the thing to start with the choke on, but it will not stay on for very long. I am assuming if I was at the water I could probably get it to run at WOT, but is this just going to hurt my motor more?

2: This motor was bored and honed +3mm. Am I able to get it re-sleeved and bored to fit my current pistons? Do I need to find a set of new jugs? do I need to buy a new set of pistons?

Just hoping there is a way to fix this thing without an entire top end rebuild. Let me know what you guys think and try to take it easy on me, my button is already pretty hurt!
 
The description you give of forcing the crank, having it pop, then having it spin freely reminds me of times when I have had machines come in with a bad crank bearing. The limited movement in either direction prior to locking up only reinforces my thought that you might have a low end problem.

Pull the head off and inspect the piston crown for impact damage, the dome of the head may have similar damage if pieces of the low end were pulled up into the combustion area.

Of course I may be wrong, I'm not there first hand. But with low compression numbers you have no choice but to start into the motor. Partial rotation situations are, almost always, crank related.
 
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Wow, b4 any compression tests, did you get all the water out of the cylinders? Then I would do a compression test. If they are not within the 10% rule, you have a top end failure, and perhaps bottom end failure as well,
 
If the engine was full of water you would have had a crazy high compression test.
Sounds like either a crank or rotary gear went out with the engine locked then pop free.
 
Popps - I never actually saw any water in the cylinders at all. the only reason I was assuming it was a hydro lock was because the ski was towed without the water line being pinched off.

thanks for the responses guys.

I will have time this weekend to pull the motor and tear it apart. Ill keep you all posted on my findings.

hopefully, it's not the crank but its highly likely as the crank was the only thing on the ski that was not replaced when i rebuilt the motor
 
so I finally got a chance to tear the motor apart this weekend,

the bottom end is blown.

the rod is completely seized and there's metal everywhere. I guess that's what I get for not replacing the crank during the rebuild.

the good news is the cylinders and pistons look fine.
 

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Sorry to hear about your engine. My wife got on a buddies 98 GS (717 engine) about a month ago. I was right there when she started it. It Idled fine and had a that nice little pop in the exhaust that I like to hear. She went 100 yards and the ski quit. I took my ski over to pull find out what was wrong. I pulled the seat and tried to turn the engine by hand. Nope and the PTO was HOT. Right there I figured the engine was dead. It happened that fast and without warning. I was listening to it as she drove away and it gave no indication I called the engine shop and was told the crank bearing usually goes because it doesn't get much oil.

Difficult for me to believe it failed that quickly and without warning but it did.
 
alright guys. I finished tearing the motor down. I've got a few questions

Here is a picture of the damage left behind in the bottom half of the block. Is this a concern for a rebuild? Do I need to buy a new block or will this one be ok to put a new crank into?

it was a mess of shrapnel, but only on the mag side. PTO side is perfectly fine. It also appears that the pistons and cylinders are more or less ok. I'll post some pics of those soon to get everyone opinion.

My main questions right now is if i slap a new crank in this thing will it work? or should I just go ahead and buy a whole new motor and move on.
 

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