How to set carb after rebuilding

[Mr Mufakka]

Hello

I've got a 97 GTi. We recently rebuilt the carb and everything seemed to be running fine. Had it out for about 2 hours and it ran great (although looking back, it did seem a bit slow on the bottom end. Of course being 11 years old, I thought that might be it). Anyways, we took it out this past weekend and it kept cutting out during acceleration and got worse as the afternoon progressed. At one point, we had to limp it back to the ramp with a max speed of only 20mph.

It idles fine, maybe a bit heavy on the smoke. Starts up great.

I'm thinking it's running rich and fouling out the plugs. Once we had it back home, I removed the plugs and they were black and moist.

Any recommendations on setting the carb correctly or other things that it might be?

 

[kustomkarl]

Does the pwc still have the Gray fuel lines? if it does replace them. They leave a residue in the carburetors also(you"ll need to clean the internal filters again) as they deteriorate from the inside out. If the clamps are bad too replace them also. Use stainless steel one to replace the old ones. The carb settings should be 1 1/2 turns on the low speed and "0" on the high speed, it has a plastic cap on it to prevent it from being over adjusted. Adjust the idle speed with the idle speed screw and not the low speed adjustment screw. Be sure if you adjust the throttle cables that the oil injector cable is also in sync with the throttle cable, and the marks on the injector pump are lined up properly. Do you have a seadoo shop manual? her is an idea for you if you don't. You could join as a "premium member". As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too. Premium members get priority when it comes to getting quick detailed answers.


Karl

 

[Mr Mufakka]

Karl

Thanks for your help. I've finally started working on the Sea Doo. I've replaced the lines as you suggested and also the fuel filter up front. Figured it was time for that while I had it apart. My question though is where is the filter in the carb? A friend of mine said something about it's probably right where the feed line plugs in? I haven't had a chance to look there as he mentioned it to me last night.

I took a glance at this diagram last night and couldn't see it. Also, my friend mentioned that this filter could just be cleaned and reused?

http://www.imagessite.com/OEM_Images/seadoo_images/5818C11.gif

Thanks for your assistance!

 

[JPX]

Dirty (and attempted to clean) and clean filters. They go in the little hole on the right side in the photo below.

 

[Mr Mufakka]

Ohhhh... nice pic!

Thanks!

 

[kustomkarl]

Yea a picture is worth a thousand words...

Karl

 

[Mr Mufakka]

Thanks for the help guys. Took it out today and it's running great! I would like to take a look at the jet settings and make sure they are set correctly though.

One other question. The fuel gauge hasn't been working for some time now. And during the work this past week, I did take a look at the pick up and the magnet(s) are still in it and slide up and down. Anything I could test with a multimeter?

 

[kustomkarl]

You need to check the Pink and Pink/Black wire coming out of the baffle tube in the gas tank. The sending unit works off resistance. Pull the plug apart at the tank, and use an ohm meter to check for resistance between the two pink wires. The resistance will be different depending on how much fuel is in the fuel tank. If you get no resistance, remove the clamps off the sender, and pull the sending unit out of the fuel tank. Check the magnets on the float in the sending unit. To get to the float out, pop the bottom off and look for the 4 magnets on the float. If they are missing use a strong magnet to get them out of the tank bottom. If they are dirty clean them and re-insert it back in the baffle tube and check the wires again to check for readings of resistance depending on where the float is in the baffle tube. Check the float to see if it “floats” in a cup of gas. Sometimes the float becomes saturated and won’t float in gas…but it will in water, so use gas to check it. If still no reading of resistance replace the sender. If you get readings, check continuity of wiring to gauge. At the baffle you could un plug the guage and using a jumper wire between the 2 wires in the plug on the guage side. Attach the lanyard to power up the gauges. If the guage goes to full the guage is good. If it still doesn’t respond, do a continuity test of the wires to the guage. If all wiring checks out ok, and the guage still doesn’t respond, the gauge is bad.
Keep me posted on your progress.

Karl

 

[timmyboy76]

low setting is 1,....high is 1.5...

 

[Mr Mufakka]

Interesting about it floating in water and not in gas. While we had the tank out, I had tested it briefly in a bucket of water. The float seem to do fine. Guess I should have tested it in gas!

Thanks and I'll keep you updated!

 

[kustomkarl]

That's because the density of gas and water is different. Water is heavier than gas, so it will settle to the bottom of gas. The same for the gas saturated float, It will float in water but sink in gas.

Karl