How to really love your boat (yearly maintenance)

[porshuh]

So it's been a long winter, and I want to give a little love to my boat. What are the good yearly maintenance things to do?

1. Oil change. I would like to supply the oil and filters to the mechanic to make sure top notch stuff is used. What is a good oil and filter to get for a SC 4-Tec?
2. Spark Plugs. I'm not sure when they were last changed, so it would probably be a good idea to change them out. What is a good plug to buy, and what gap should I set it to?
3. Impeller wear ring. During a hole shot, the right engine revs up a bit more quickly then the left, so I know at least that wear ring is a little worn. Should I go ahead and replace both if I am replacing one?
4. New Battery. Check!
5. Anything else?

The engines have about 120 hours on them I believe (will check while at the shop)...but the boat runs like it is brand new...so I'd like to reward it with some nice maintenance to keep it that way!

I actually took the boat out once in late February, and it ran like a top...as if I had only been sitting for a few days (it had actually been sitting for a few months).

Finally, what are good cleaning products to use on the seats, and on the hull and interior of the boat for a good cleaning and to try and get that brand-new-white color back?

Thanks to all in advance for the help!

 

[pwgsx]

1. Amsoil and k&n or oem filter
2. NGK
3. OEM blue wear ring, might want to check your carbon seal if its worn as well

Is it supercharged? Get it rebuilt and metal washers

 

[porshuh]

Yeah it's supercharged. Yeah I've been thinking it might be time to rebuild (with >100hrs on the engines).

Which weight of Amsoil? and any particular flavor of NGK plugs?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Oil changes should be done at the end of the season. Same theory for anything that takes oil. This is done at the end of the season so that, if there is water (or anything else) in the oil you are removing it and not having it sit on your metal parts all winter season. Further, if there is water in the oil for example, you know this BEFORE the beginning of next season. This gives you the entire winter to work on whatever the issue is.

Your SC is an 2006 model I am assuming based on the year of your boat. If so, you need to rebuild it ASAP. If it is an 06 SC, then it has ceramic washers as long as no one has not already replaced them to the updated metal washers.

In 09 they came out with an update kit that includes an updated shaft. If you get this update kit then you can go every 200 hours.

If you are not familiar with the ceramic washer just say so and we will fill you in on them. They will destroy your engine,,,,

 

[pwgsx]

Just standard NGK plugs, nothing fancy, get the ones where the tops screw off and you are just left with the threaded stub. They come in this type and solid so double check. The parts store I go to always gets them mixed up.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...nthetic-formula-4-stroke-marine-oil/?Group=11

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I agree you should stick with the factory specified NGK spark plugs, the fuel map was optimized by the engineering group using these plugs and any other is not likely to run as well.

I prefer myself, the type that has the single one piece top, not the screw-on type, not sure why you would need the screw-on type but if you do then use those and remove the top as necessary... Maybe your connectors are that type you must remove the top?

I prefer the one piece top type b/c there's less chance of a high-resistance connection that can corrode.

 

[brutal]

Finally, what are good cleaning products to use on the seats, and on the hull and interior of the boat for a good cleaning and to try and get that brand-new-white color back?

Thanks to all in advance for the help!

After trying many things, from mild detergents, Dawn, to Spray-Nine, with little success to clean the filthy seats in our newly acquired 2006 Utopia, I grabbed a can of Tuff Stuff I have always kept on hand for as long as I can remember and got after them with the stiffest nylon bristle brush we could find and they now look nearly new. Hit them with some 303 and done.

I'm a big fan of 303 for also preventing UV damage on many surfaces including gelcoat. http://303products.com/index.php/product-uses/marine/303-aerospace-protectant-on-gelcoat-fiberglass I put it on before waxing with my favorite - 3M Ultra marine paste wax. I use it on the fiberglass gelcoat on the RV as well.

To clean beyond boat wash and wax, 3M Finesse-It II marine glaze is the greatest. For compounding heavy oxidation, 3M Imperial compound and Finisher can't be beat. I've tried the Meguires products and they're crap compared to 3M. A good quality and proper aggressive level wool pad is a must. Low and slow is key. I run my polisher at 600RPM until things shine up then raise the RPM depending on the surface and cut 1400-2500 tops.

Sent from my subconscious mind.

 

[pwgsx]

I agree you should stick with the factory specified NGK spark plugs, the fuel map was optimized by the engineering group using these plugs and any other is not likely to run as well.

I prefer myself, the type that has the single one piece top, not the screw-on type, not sure why you would need the screw-on type but if you do then use those and remove the top as necessary... Maybe your connectors are that type you must remove the top?

I prefer the one piece top type b/c there's less chance of a high-resistance connection that can corrode.

I agree however the 4tec plug boots are different and you cant use the solid type plugs.

 

[porshuh]

And for the oil change (I have read some conflicting information), how many qts per engine should I buy? I have heard everything from 3 to 5 quarts...I guess depending on where people fill up to on the dip stick...

Should I both with the air filters on the intakes?

Thanks for all this great info, everyone!

 

[pwgsx]

I have never messed with the filters or airbox. You should need 3 qts and a tad more so 4 should be good per motor. You want the oil level right between the 2 holes on the dip stick with the boat level on the trailer. Use the boat floor or back platform with a level to be sure. You will need a oil buddy or suction tube to remove the old oil. Make sure you remove the suction tube when cranking the engine in "drown mode".

 

[porshuh]

You will need a oil buddy or suction tube to remove the old oil. Make sure you remove the suction tube when cranking the engine in "drown mode".

I had heard it's a nightmare to change your own oil in a 4-tec (especially with the situation of them in a boat), so I didn't even consider doing the oil change myself. Is it all that bad to DIY?

 

[timeman]

Changing your own oil isn't hard and saves you a lot of money. This forum's search bar has lots of "how to", here's one from KustomCarl from a while back: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?36184-4-tech-oil-change

BTW, a oil change / tune up kit runs about $69.00 (free shipping) ebay / amazon and other places. You get 1 gal of oil, new oil filter with 2 new "o" rings, 3 NGK spark plugs and detailed instructions. You would still need to purchase a suction pump to draw old oil out through dip stick tube.

 

[xintersecty]

BTW, a oil change / tune up kit runs about $69.00 (free shipping) ebay / amazon and other places. You get 1 gal of oil, new oil filter with 2 new "o" rings, 3 NGK spark plugs and detailed instructions. You would still need to purchase a suction pump to draw old oil out through dip stick tube.

I second the tune up kit. Saved me some money as everything is in the kit. Changing the oil is not hard to do. Just be patient and of course have the right tools for those torx heads.

 

[pwgsx]

Its not bad, get the right tools and filters, o rings and save a bunch of $$