Doing the oil and coolant change yourself is very easy. Even though you do not use your boat much each year is is still a good idea to change the oil and filter a minimum of once a year because it can break down over time. Specifics below:
First thing you should do is go to the top of this page and click "manuals" to download the shop manual for your boat/engine if you have not done so already. It will make things much easier on you since this is your first maintenance task. It is really detailed good reading and you will learn much about how your boat works and other detailed maintenance tasks.
Oil change:
You will need a good fluid pump and an E-10 star socket to take off the oil filter canister cover. Below are a couple good threads to read:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?57256-parts-need-for-oil-change&highlight=fluid+pump
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?55970-Oil-Pumps&highlight=fluid+pump
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?54933-A-couple-oil-changing-questions&highlight=fluid+pump
Make sure to purchase a new oil filter and the three replacement rubber o-rings that fit onto the oil filter cap. You probably will not need the o-rings but it is good to have at least one spare if each just in case they break during the filter change. Happened to me once and I am glad I had an extra on hand, otherwise you are kind of dead in the water.
Process is very simple, warm up the oil by running the motor briefly, suck out the old oil from the dip stick tube, replace filter, then top the oil back up. The manual says to crank the engine over a few times to expel remaining oil from the oil pump but I do not do this. The engine is set up for a dry start next time and the little old oil left in there is not worth the risk of dry start up engine wear (in my opinion).
You should run the engine after you refill with new oil for about a minute to let it circulate. Shut it off then check the oil level again. Add oil as necessary but DO NOT OVER FILL. Correct oil level is right in the middle of the two bends on the dip stick.
Coolant Change:
Again, a very simple project if you take your time and have a buddy help you (this job is much easier with two people). Here are a couple good threads to read:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?52941-2007-Wake-155-Maint-Spark-Plug-and-Oil-Change&highlight=coolant
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?39694-Replace-Coolant-Clean-Cooling-System-%E2%80%93-4-tec-engines&highlight=coolant
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?55729-2004-Seadoo-4-Tek-Winterization&highlight=coolant
At the very back of the boat, on the heat exchanger, is a small stainless steel hex screw. Take this screw out to drain the old coolant. The shop manual is very good resource for things like this, good pictures. As you drain it will really piss out so have a good size bucket ready to collect the old coolant and remove the cap from the reservoir in the engine compartment to facilitate draining.
To refill mix up your coolant (50/50) and have ready, 2 gals should be enough. One person will pour in the new coolant into the reservoir and the other will be at the back ready to put the plug back in. Pour in the new coolant and wait until the pisser at the back flows nice and clean with no air bubbles. Quickly insert the hex screw plug and tighten at the same time your buddy keeps adding coolant to the reservoir. Now top off the reservoir with coolant. You need to bring the engine up to operating temperature in order to open the thermostat and release any remaining trapped air from the system. This will make the coolant level drop in the reservoir which needs to be topped off a few times as the air comes out. The only way to really do this is in the water because you can't run the boat long enough out of water to bring the engine temp up without doing damage to the drive system. So either put it in the water now and finish this job (in the cold) or just wait until next spring when you drop the boat in. Just make sure not to forget and run your boat low on coolant.
Spark Plugs:
Spark plugs are very easy, just like a newer car. Remove the coil packs (one at a time), unscrew the old plug, put in the new plug that has been gaped and torque down properly. Be sure to use dielectric grease and anti-sieze on the new plugs before you put them back in.
Hope this info helps, post back if you have any other detailed questions and let us know how it goes!
