How to fix a "Infometer center gauge" on a 1996 SEADOO GTX.

[jimini cricket]

I will be naming all the parts from the "Parts Catalogue SEADOO GTX 5640" catalogue number 219 300 230.

This is the way i did it. If anyone has a better way please feel free to add to this. I hope it helps someone.

I want to give credit to a guy called "soccerdad" at this site for helping me out with this. If you need the film, ask soccerdad he might still have some of the film left for sale and much cheaper than in other places. His price? $10 shipped!

Note: It is possible to work on the "infometer center gauge" without having to remove the "deflector" from the "dash board" assembly. However you will have to remove the "dash board" and the "deflector" assembly from the "storage cover upper"

1. Remove the 6 screws from the "storage cover lower" part 269 500 268. This is the Black undercover that it is attached underneath the "storage cover upper" part 269 500 259. There are 6 stainless steel screws, with 6 stainless steel washers and the same number of pressure washers. There are also 2 O-rings on the two bottom screws.

I took 4 screws out and left the two on the bottom loose on the undercover, so as to keep the undercover in place, until i loosened the two screws that held the "base latch" part 269 000 015 at the top in place. Just loosen them enough were the undercover can be pulled from the base latch. Don't remove the "base latch, which secures the cover at the top also. Then take the last two screws out from the bottom of the undercover and pull the undercover out from the latch and set it aside.

2. Underneath of the "storage cover upper" there are several screws of several sizes. Remove the two large screws right under the connector's "mounting plate' part 278 000 852 where the connectors from the gauges and the temp sensor are mounted. I removed the electrical connectors from the "mounting plate" so i could access the screws better.



Note: Above are the bottom screws that attaches the "dash board" to the "storage cover upper" lid. You can also see the "mountain plate" with the screws behind it. The screws are placed back in the "dash board" after i removed them to keep them from getting lost.

3. Remove the three small screws that hold the "deflector" part 269 500 303 to the "storage cover upper" and i think, but not sure that, depending on the color of your ski, this number could be different, mine is green. under the "deflector" is the cluster of gauges (three) Now you will have the "deflector" and the "dash board" part 269 500 355, and the 3 gauges all in one piece together. The "dash board" and the three gauges in it, are going to be connected by two hidden screws to the "deflector" on the top, so don't pull on the "dash board" thinking that is being held by clips to the "deflector" because you will break and damage the "deflector" screw inserts.



Note: On the left are the top screws that attaches the "dash board" to the "deflector" on the top. This is not the "storage cover upper" lid, but the "deflector.

4. Once the "dash board" and the 3 gauges in it are separated from the "deflector, you will see that around the gauges there are two styrofoam pieces. One piece is formed around all three gauges, it is flimsy on the sides and it will come apart so handle with care. If it breaks wait until you are about to put everything back together and then use a bit of "black silicone" and put it back together and wrap a piece of black electrician tape all around it.




the other piece of styrofoam, was square and was around the "infometer center gauge" only. In order to make this easier i removed all the zip ties from all the cable zip tie connectors, loosening all the wires to the gauges.
This allowed me to be able to pull and turn the "deflector" upside down unto the "storage cover upper", place a towel over the "storage cover upper" to avoid scratches and damaging the paint on the "storage cover upper". Now push the styrofoam out of the gauges carefully and unto the cables. You will see the two small screws holding the "deflector" to the "dash board" on the top of the gauges "dash board". Remove those two screws and the "deflector" and the "dash board" will separate. Set aside the "deflector".


5. The "infometer center gauge" is inserted into a large rubber sleeve, "gauge support" part 211 200 018, push the gauge forward out of the rubber sleeve "gauge support".



You will now see the black metal ring around the "infometer center gauge" part 278 000 841. I tried to remove the metal ring without having to cut it and i was not successful and i had to cut the ring.



I used a mini hacksaw. Be very careful and go one stroke at the time because the ring is thin, and underneath the ring is a rubber washer that it is glued to the lens and you do not want to cut into this rubber and definitely not into the lens.


6. Remove the black metal ring from around the gauge once you cut it open carefully and DO NOT DISCARD IT, you will need the ring again. The ring will distort and be possibly damaged if you open it too wide. Do your best to slowly remove the ring from around the lens without spreading it too much, or distorting it too much or creasing it. Set the black metal ring aside for later.



7. After you remove the black ring, pull the lens with the glued rubber ring around it off the face of the gauge. Once you remove the black ring the lens should be sitting on top of the face of the gauge. Set aside.



8. The next step is to pull out the assembly that it's inside the gauge housing to exposed the inner workings of the gauge and I used a flat tipped screwdriver for this.
Insert the flat tip screwdriver between the gauge outer housing and the inside gauge assembly and pull forward the display assembly, until you see the rectangular flat circuit board attached to the glass assembly- display circuit board which is round. The round part is where the glass display is and where you are going to adhere the film to.

9. Turn the gauge on its axis or rotate it, so you can remove the two screws that hold the rectangular circuit board to the round glass display assembly circuit board. Remove the two small screws that are behind the display assembly that attaches both circuit boards together.





Note: Be very careful when inserting the screws to attach the two parts together, the plastic where the screws are inserted is delicate and if you insert the screw and force it in, you will break the plastic insert. Make sure that you insert and turn the screws with your hand first and only tighten slightly.

 

[jimini cricket]

10. You should have the round glass display assembly attached to the gauge assembly face where the graphics are, (fuel, oil etc.) on your hand now. Turn it around and you are going to see 4 small screws, remove the four small screws and the glass display will separate from the round rear circuit board that is attached to the glass display. The face is where the graphics are on the inside of the gauge. The glass display assembly is the glass display where you are going to place the film.


11. You should have the glass display on your hand now separate from the face display. Now proceed to remove the film from the glass display using a new blade scraper to scrape the old film from the glass display. All i had to do was scrape the film and it came right off the glass really easy. However, i have heard that it can be difficult to scrape it off in some units. I used no chemicals to remove the old film from the display glassy surface.



12. I then used electrical part cleaner to clean the glass because it leaves no residue behind at all. The glass has to be squeaky clean. Next, i took the small piece of film and peeled off the protective film from it, exposing the adhesive side. Very carefully i placed it over the glass display the same way that you would do, if you were laminating a document. Making sure that you leave no bubbles behind. I unfortunately had a bubble, so i punctured the film very carefully where it would not be seen, and took the bubble out without any problems. Make sure that you place the film correctly the first time, you will not be able to remove it and repositioned once you adhered it to the glass.


13. Now put back together the glass display assembly that has been fixed with the new film and attach it to the round circuit board with the four small screws. Now Attach the display face and the display glass assembly (where the film was installed) to the rectangular flat circuit board that is still attached to the gauge housing on the ski with the two small screws.



14. Here is where i did things different from most of what i have read. Be aware that i allowed the black silicone to dry after each and every application before i went to the next step that needed silicone. So, with that said, I took an small amount of black silicone and placed a very small, very thin film between the display housing ring and the gauge outer housing body and push it back into the gauge housing. I allowed it to dry before i went to the next step. Now take the lens with the rubber ring around it and place a very thin film of silicone to its face and press it unto the gauge and use masking tape to hold the lens in place until the black silicone cures and is holding the lens unto the unit by itself.








Once is dry, now take black silicone and go around the side perimeter of the lens again applying silicone around where the lens and the gauge housing meet and making sure you are covering any small fissures, openings, cracks, between the lens and the gauge housing. Make this layer very thin, because you still have the metal ring to install on top of it, making sure that the gauge is sealed all around with silicone before you do the final assembly of the black ring. You will need to use your fingers to apply the thin layer of 100% silicone so for this wear surgical gloves and i would suggest to change your gloves several times so as not to touch inadvertently other parts of the gauge with silicone on your hands.



Note: If you place too much silicone on the face of the housing where the lens go, you will see the silicone inside of the gauge when you are done. Because the face of the housing is wider than the rubber seal around the lens. I think that it is better to place the silicone on the rubber seal of the lens and then adhere the lens to the face of the gauge housing. This way you will not see the silicone inside of the gauge when you are done.

15. Now take the black metal ring and place an small bead of 100% black silicone inside of it. Make this a very small bead, very small. Do not over do it with the silicone inside the black ring or you will have a mess when you do the final step to clean up and silicone can be a messy pain, so do less, rather than more and build up if you need more. Have available mineral spirits to clean up excessive silicone if you over do it.



Note: I took the black metal ring and made tiny cuts to the back of the metal ring and straightened the lip in the back of the ring, why? Because now the lens and the housing when put together are wider than before due to the silicone in between the housing and the lens. By cutting these little slots on the back of the ring you can now insert the ring right over the assembly and it will fit very nice over the housing and the lens together.

16. Now remove the masking tape that was holding the lens to the face of the gauge and place the black metal ring very carefully over the bezel of the lens that it's now attached to the gauge body with silicone, making sure that you do not distort the metal ring or spread it too wide. Once the black ring is over the lens clean any silicone that has gotten on the lens. You can allow the silicone to dry over the lens and then remove it later by rubbing it off. I chose to clean it immediately with mineral spirits.

17. Now, take an automotive water hose clamp and big enough to go over the diameter of the gauge and rub it with a thin amount of any oil, this will keep the silicone from adhering to the clamp when you pull it off from the gauge. Place it over the ring and tighten it until the black metal ring ends come together. Clean any silicone that has oozed from under the ring. This is why it is important, i think, to let all the other layers applied before to dry before you place the black ring and tighten it. Make sure the silicone is sealing around the black metal ring and use your finger to spread an additional very thin layer around the edges of the ring sealing the black metal ring to the body of the gauge. I allowed it to cure like this over night. This will make a homogeneous assembly of the gauge body, the lens and the black ring making them air tight.



18. Remove the automotive water hose clamp from the perimeter of the "infometer center gauge" the silicone should be cured and your gauge should be air tight. Finally i took electrical tape and went around the gauge several times to make sure that i took the pressure from the ring off, and from wanting to spread open. Proceed to install everything back in the reversal of the removal, but not before you test the gauge to make sure that it is working.

One last note. Remember that the gauge must go back in the sleeve or in the rubber gauge support. If you put too much silicone around the gauge then you are increasing the width too much and the width where the ring will go around, this will make the gauge not sit square in the sleeve and it will stick out a bit and it will not look cool, it will work but it will look as if you fixed it; Make the layers of silicone really thin. Also, have a bunch of rags available when working with the black silicone. Luckily it does rubs off easily once it dries. I broke the temperature sensor because i placed the "deflector" on top of the fitting when i was working on it, and somehow it snapped, so be careful with your temperature sensor. I am going to try to fix mine, i will try to do a thread about it.

Hope this helps someone, in the same way others helped me. Thank you!

 

[soccerdad]

Nice write-up! Looks like it works fine. I assume the gas sender is not hooked up or working? Great job. Kind of intimidating, but not bad once you get into it. As I said before, getting the gauge out is just about the hardest part. I never would have tried it in the ski, but there are lots of ways to skin a bear. I do have more film if anyone needs it. $10 shipped. (ebay ripoffs are $25)

 

[jimini cricket]

Nice write-up! Looks like it works fine. I assume the gas sender is not hooked up or working? Great job. Kind of intimidating, but not bad once you get into it. As I said before, getting the gauge out is just about the hardest part. I never would have tried it in the ski, but there are lots of ways to skin a bear. I do have more film if anyone needs it. $10 shipped. (ebay ripoffs are $25)

Hey thanks! The worst part was that i separated the "dash board" from the "deflector" and then it was a pita to put it back together, but after much work all went in fine. Hey thanks for the help!

You said something about the gas sender being hooked up or not working? I only placed the Dess key in without starting the jetski because i am waiting for my pop off valve to arrived to then install the carbs. Does it supposed to light up even when you do not start it? The fuel tank is clean and empty and the same with the oil tank.

 

[soccerdad]

I guess it just could be showing empty. I thought there would be one bar showing, but maybe not if it is completely empty. I do not remember. Did you test the sender while you had it all out?

 

[jimini cricket]

I guess it just could be showing empty. I thought there would be one bar showing, but maybe not if it is completely empty. I do not remember. Did you test the sender while you had it all out?

When i first placed the key in, it said "aceite" which means "oil" in spanish. I haven't really looked at, or play/set the infometer center gauge yet since i am concentrating on getting the carbs done. I am waiting for the pop off valve tool to arrive.

Yes the oil tank and the gas tank both, were taken out and washed with soap and water and they are still empty and installed inside the jetski. I reckon that if they are both empty that it won't show anything yet on the gauge? To be honest, i didn't test the baffle or the sender yet, i probably will kick myself later if it doesn't work and i have to take it out to fix it. :cheers:

 

[redbaron]

Nice write-up! Looks like it works fine. I assume the gas sender is not hooked up or working? Great job. Kind of intimidating, but not bad once you get into it. As I said before, getting the gauge out is just about the hardest part. I never would have tried it in the ski, but there are lots of ways to skin a bear. I do have more film if anyone needs it. $10 shipped. (ebay ripoffs are
I WANT ONE let me know how make the payment

 

[soccerdad]

[MENTION=64737]redbaron[/MENTION] -PM sent

 

[redbaron]

10-4

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[relbas]

were can I find information how to trouble shute the interferometer or the gas sending unit?

 

[jimini cricket]

I guess it just could be showing empty. I thought there would be one bar showing, but maybe not if it is completely empty. I do not remember. Did you test the sender while you had it all out?

Yeap, the gas sender unit is not working, it was working before, now does not. F1 fuse? :cheers:

 

[jimini cricket]

were can I find information how to trouble shute the interferometer or the gas sending unit?

Hi, On a GTI, i would have no clue about that jetski in specific, but, in general, i would start with the manual for that unit and also search the threads here i am sure someone has had the same problems you are having and the answer is here. Do you know what's wrong with it? What are the symptoms? Hope that works.:cheers:

 

[soccerdad]

Start with a search then ask questions with the symptoms and we can help.


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