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How screwed am I ?

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Jims5543

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It became obvious over the weekend that my engine needs new carbs one engine was hell to restart after sitting a while and did not like to idle very much once hot.

So I stalled it, then the other engine decided to join in, it took me a couple of minutes to get both to fire again. Distracted, I did not notice I drifted over the tow line I was using to pull a tube.

Sucked into both engines. Called Sea Tow (glad I purchased a membership) and believe it or not he broke down right after he tied off to me, spent 2 hours helping him trouble shoot his boat. (fuel pump going bad blew the fuse / no spare / he made one out of a lure / dangerous I know / not my boat) We finally were able to get it out but got home at 9 at night. I went to work on it this morning.

I ended up pulling the spark plugs and fogging the cylinders, then took off the nozzles and dropped the jet drive cones off the back so I could put a wrench on the driveshaft. I reversed the rotation and was able to back the stuck line right off.

Only 1 problem. I noticed some blue plastic after I removed the ropes, it came off the drive shaft and appears to be coming out from the engine / hull down the shaft.

I sat in the water for 2 hours after my mistake, when I pulled the boat and opened up the drain plug, zero water drained out so if these were seals they are still in tact further up.

Do I need to replace these plastic parts asap? I cleared the shafts, I then fired up the engines and flushed them out (since I could not do that until the shafts were clear) and everything seemed to function perfectly. Just not sure if I need to tear it down and replace these parts right away.

Pics:

The Rope, you can see the blue plastic I am referring to here.
266.jpg


Removal method:
267.jpg
 
Some shafts have a plastic cover over them. If this is the plastic you are seeing you do not need to do anything. Most cut this off and simply drive on..

As far as carbs go. You would be hard pressed to find a better deal and or better work than @Dr. Honda.
He will service what needs to be service and set them up right.
 
:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

sure go ahead and ride! and leave the carbs they way they are to! NOT... ooof :rofl:

why didn`t you just remove the PTO covers and rotate the engines by hand that way???

I also see milky oil, so that pump will have to be serviced and also check for a bad shaft seal or bad cone seal while your at it...

Remove those driveshafts and remove the rest of the blue shaft protector plastic and run without the blue tubes. They are actually there to prevent a rope or fishing line from wrapping around the drive shaft, one of BRP better ideas...

anyway, what is all that white mess around the drive shaft opening in the hull?? all those dimples are what???

I suggest downloading a shop service manual, you have your work cut out for ya...

good luck...

starting 787`s when hot or after sitting, just give a little throttle, no choke and push the start button, they should fire right up if all is well...
 
sure go ahead and ride! and leave the carbs they way they are to! NOT... ooof :rofl:

Not sure if you are making a joke or not. I suspect the carbs may need a rebuild, sadly I have no maintenance history on the craft and I have been slowly going through and doing a lot of it a little at a time. Carb rebuilds were on my to do list this winter.

why didn`t you just remove the PTO covers and rotate the engines by hand that way???

See Below.

I also see milky oil, so that pump will have to be serviced and also check for a bad shaft seal or bad cone seal while your at it...

The milky oil was the jet drive fluid, I had just serviced it and did not put any sealer on the o-rings, I was not sure if I had to, I decided to pull it back apart since I remembered there was a flat spot on the drive shafts to turn the props. I confirmed I was leaking water into the drive. (I do not have a pressure tester I am going to buy one now) So I cleaned them out real good and put some sealer on the o-ring this time.

Remove those driveshafts and remove the rest of the blue shaft protector plastic and run without the blue tubes. They are actually there to prevent a rope or fishing line from wrapping around the drive shaft, one of BRP better ideas...

Again, not sure if you are joking or not. I had my head up in there before this and do not remember the entire shaft being covered with the blue wrapping, so I suspect it was damaged before I purchased. I will look into putting new ones on.

anyway, what is all that white mess around the drive shaft opening in the hull?? all those dimples are what???

I did not see those until I took a picture with a flash, not sure if it is a repair or just cosmetic flaw in the boat.

I suggest downloading a shop service manual, you have your work cut out for ya...

I already own one I purchased it right after getting the boat, I like to wrench on cars for fun so this is just another outlet for me. I am learning as I go.

good luck...

Again, not sure if you are joking.



Actually I am joking here.

starting 787`s when hot or after sitting, just give a little throttle, no choke and push the start button, they should fire right up if all is well...

I noticed that did the trick was not sure if that was normal or if I needed a carb rebuild. I am going to rebuild them this winter.... well because I like preventative maintenance.

Thanks for the tips.
 
As I stated in my post..

Get the carbs done, I suggest Dr Honda, but do what you want.

Slice the rest of the blue covering off the drive shafts and don't worry about it.. Few owners have the covers on their shafts at this point.
 
yes joking about running it the way it is, not joking about any of the recommendations.

These blue tubes are held in by a retaining ring underneath the carbon seal bellows, and they have a few spots of Permatex to hold them in securely.

I would not leave the bits in there or the retaining ring... do it right do it once. although some have left the remnants of the blue tube in the thru hull. not my style...

use 518, anerobic sealant for the tail cone around the O ring, just a bit, not overdoing it, you don`t want to bend down the mounting tabs on the cone anymore than they get squished from tightening over the years.

it`s no fun breaking down or sucking up a rope, I have seen my friends do the very same thing on ski`s from not paying attention to the rope.

most people ignore the carb/fuel issue and keep running until BOOM...

You know the carbs need attention, or if they haven`t been apart for inspection recently, now is a good time to do it before there is a further issue.

read thru mu build thread for related work, you`ll see I have gone thru the same things and a ton of preventative maintenance.

good luck, meaning, good luck, hope it all goes smoothly... sometime crap just happens, just be prepared for it...

These boats are a ton of fun when running right...


starting: I can sit for about 1/2 to 1 hour and just hit the start buttons and she`ll turn right over. If for any reason the ambient temps are high and there is heat soak, if they give me trouble I just push the stick up a little and they kick right over...

If you think there is any issue at all with the carbs, do not wait, I`ve seen many put things off and wind up a mess afterwards.
 
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how close to Dania beach are you? if your close you can hit up Rob over at Perry Performance Group for Mikuni carb kits and needles and seats if you need them...
SBT is in Clearwater, and a decent source for some parts for our boats.
 
Well, ambient temps here in Florida are high still. It was high 80's on the water yesterday. The boat runs flawlessly, just seems to not like to idle when things are heated up, or it has sat for a while and heat soaked.

That said I am trying to figure out how to contact Dr. Honda other than PM on here and see about having he carbs rebuilt. While I am handy, this is one item I have no problem farming out.

I am still learning this boat, just like an old car they have their quirkiness and you have to understand them.
 
Well, ambient temps here in Florida are high still. It was high 80's on the water yesterday. The boat runs flawlessly, just seems to not like to idle when things are heated up, or it has sat for a while and heat soaked.

That said I am trying to figure out how to contact Dr. Honda other than PM on here and see about having he carbs rebuilt. While I am handy, this is one item I have no problem farming out.

I am still learning this boat, just like an old car they have their quirkiness and you have to understand them.

amen to that!:thumbsup::cheers:
I really don`t have any issue with 80`s and warm water so far. I know I have a few more RPM`s when the air is cooler and the water temps are cool in the spring and fall, otherwise, the only time I can think of having a hard start briefly is when it was in the 90`s and very humid.

here is a 98 challenger 1800 download, the 99 manual was missing many pages.

http://www.sea-doo.net/SHOPMANUALS/JETBOATS/1998-1999/JBOAT_A/1998/LMR98V1A.PDF
 
how close to Dania beach are you? if your close you can hit up Rob over at Perry Performance Group for Mikuni carb kits and needles and seats if you need them...
SBT is in Clearwater, and a decent source for some parts for our boats.

I am 90 miles from Dania.

This place is close to me and carries the entire catalog of parts available for my boat:

http://www.stuartmotorsports.com/

My buddy found a really good mechanic up in Grant Florida that is honest and knowledgeable. He just did some work on a 2007 180 my buddy bought and was very fair and honest.

http://www.route1motorsports.com/


Outside a carb rebuild where I think I will get really frustrated adjusting and setting it up initially I am game for most tasks.

I do not think there is anything wrong where I will blow up my engines, the boat is running fine outside of idle, I think rebuilding the carbs this winter will be a good move though.

I was going to pull and inspect the rave valves while the carbs were off being worked on.
 
sounds like a plan!

wow, free shipping from Stuarts! man can`t beat that!:cheers:
 
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