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How do I test safety lanyard/switch

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don't sink

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Boat won't start- pulled lines- it is getting gas- will pull plugs and check for spark. Is it safe to assume if I have spark then my lanyard is working correctly? If no spark then how do I test? if I do have spark then I will pull carbs and clean....I love Ethanol!
 
Yes... if you have a spark...it's working.


Basically... the lanyard grounds the CDI's, and kills the spark.
 
ok- I believe this issue is electrical- I pulled a plug and turned the engine but did not see spark. BUT, it was hard to tell if the plug was grounded since the wires are short. I tried to ground it to the "hole" for the plug since that was the only area without paint.

Pulled all 6 plugs, cleaned [none had strong fuel smell] and then sprayed starter fluid in each hole- not even a wimper of a start

Full battery charge- tight connections and good spin but I am still thinking lanyard.

can this be bypassed to check? I can hear the click but still not sure if it works.

Worst part is my oldest daughter turns 16 Thursday and wants to have friends come for tubing!!! HELP!!!
 
OK... so you don't have a spark. YES... a bad switch could cause it to not start.


The black/yellow is "Kill" wire. Try lifting it way back at the coils. Also... Check over ALL the grounds around the coils.
 
I saw the black/yellow coming out of the kill switch but could not locate it on the engine- describe "lifting"? I will check the switch with a multimeter to see if the switch part works but still wondering if I disconnect something it will bypass it. Thanks Doc!
 
This works in my 250 opti ... perhaps you can do this simple test:

take lanyard off
turn key to on - not run
press lanyyard switch in

listen for the fuel pump to turn on & my tach also jumps as the fuel pump turns on/off

could be a quick check on your model
 
Just came in from some tests- put meter on lanyard switch and could see differences in ohms when activated so that it good. Also put meter on coil- NO VOLTAGE! Checked both sides too- nothing.

Now I am looking at stator, ECU or switch boxes and none are cheap if bad! Went through every wire and ground twice.

Once again, boat ran in driveway [2 minutes] then in water for 2-3 second intervals then one final 10 seconds and now nothing. Thanks for the help- keep throwing ideas- its cheaper than cash!!
 
Ignition Troubleshooting
WARNING
DANGER - HIGH VOLTAGE/SHOCK HAZARD! Do Not touch ignition components
and/or metal test probes while engine is running and/or “cranked.”
Test Sequence
1-A. Check primary input voltage to coils. (See Test Chart, following)51843
1. If voltage readings to coil(s) are BELOW specification, proceed with Step 2-A.
2. If voltage readings to coil(s) are WITHIN specification, proceed with Step 1-B.
1-B. Check coils for spark. [Connect Spark Gap Tester (91-850439)].
1. If no spark or weak spark, COIL is bad.
2. If spark is OK, proceed with Step 1-C.
1-C. If Steps 1-A and 1-B check OK, replace spark plugs.
If problem still is evident after replacing spark plugs, proceed with Step 1-D.
1-D. If Steps 1-A, 1-B and 1-C check OK, check ignition timing.
1. If ignition timing DOES NOT check to specification (sudden and unexplained timing
change), check trigger advance linkage for loose or broken parts and check trigger magnet
ring in flywheel (affixed to flywheel hub) for tightness and/or shift in position.
2. If ignition timing is UNSTABLE (timing jumps around, at “cranking” speed and/or low
RPM), proceed to Step 5-A.
3. If ignition timing checks to specification and engine still does not run or runs poorly,
trouble exists with fuel system or engine mechanical.
2-A. Check switch box “stop” circuit. (See Test Chart, following.)
1. If reading is BELOW specification, proceed with Step 2-B.
2. If reading is ABOVE specification, either the trigger or switch box is bad (test trigger: if
trigger checks to specification replace switch box and repeat check).
3. If reading is WITHIN specification, proceed with Step 3-A.
2-B. Check ignition switch/wiring, as follows:
WARNING
DANGER--HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK/FIRE HAZARD. STAY CLEAR OF SPARK PLUG
LEADS. To assure personal safety, each individual spark plug lead should be
grounded to the engine.

1. To prevent engine from starting, remove spark plug leads from ALL spark plugs, then
ground ALL spark plug leads to the engine.
2. Remove ignition switch lead wire(s) from switch box(es) [lead wire(s) are connected
to BLACK/YELLOW bullet terminal].
NOTE: Be sure to disconnect ignition switch lead wire from both switch boxes.
3. With ignition switch ISOLATED (removed in preceding Step 2), repeat check in Step 2-A.
a. If reading still is BELOW specification, proceed with Step 3-A.
b. If reading now is WITHIN specification, either the ignition switch or wiring is bad.
3-A. Check stator low speed and high speed input to switch box. (See Test Chart, following.)NOTE: This is OUTER switch box.
1. If either the low speed or high speed reading to switch box is BELOW specification, stator
or switch box is bad (test stator: if stator checks to specification replace switch box
and repeat check).
2. If both the low speed and high speed readings are WITHIN specification, proceed with
Step 4-A.
4-A. Check stator low speed and high speed input to INNER switch box. (See Test
Chart, following.)

1. If either the low speed or high speed reading to switch box is BELOW specification stator
or switch box is bad (test stator: if stator checks to specification replace switch box and
repeat check)
2. If both the low speed and high speed readings are WITHIN specification, proceed with
Step 5-A.
5-A. Check switch box bias. Bias circuit may checked using either a voltmeter or an
ohmmeter. (To use a voltmeter, see Test Chart, following. Use VOLT METER only; DVA
not required.
Ohm Test:

1. Disconnect WHITE/BLACK wire from switch box at bullet connector.
2. With ohmmeter set to 1K scale, connect one ohm lead to WHT/BLK switch box terminal
and one ohm lead to switch box case ground.
3. Ohmmeter should indicate 1300 - 1500 ohms.
Voltage TestNOTE: Switch Box Bias Voltage is NEGATIVE (-) voltage applied to the ignition system to
raise the trigger firing threshold as engine RPM is increased, thus stabilizing ignition timing
and preventing random ignition firing.
4. If bias reading is BELOW specification, one or both switch boxes are bad.
Replace OUTER switch box and recheck bias; if necessary, replace INNER switch box and
recheck bias.
5. If bias reading is WITHIN specification, and engine still does not run or runs poorly, one
or both switch boxes or trigger is bad. [Test trigger: if trigger checks to specification replace
switch box(es) and repeat check.]
Ignition System Test Chart
IMPORTANT: BEFORE attempting the ignition system checks, below, thoroughly
read the preceding pages of these instructions to become familiar with the proper
test sequence and procedures (particularly any “Warnings” and “Cautions”). ALL
tests are performed with lead wires connected--terminals exposed. SWITCH BOXES
MUST BE GROUNDED (CASE TO ENGINE BLOCK) FOR ALL TESTS--IF NOT, SWITCH
BOXES MAY BE DAMAGED.


Ignition Test Chart.jpg

(1) Using meter only, REVERSE LEAD POLARITY; Connect leads as specified.
(*) If using a meter with a built-in DVA, place selector switch in the DVA/400 VDC position.

Maybe you already have this information? But if not, keep the multimeter handy!

Good luck with resolving your spark issue...hope you find it before the party!
 
I think Murph has you covered. (lol)


The CDI/Coil are a high voltage unit, and are fed from the stator. Your stator has 2 charging sections. Check them both with a meter.


Have you checked the fuses for the little computer and trigger units?
 
Thanks guys! That checklist gave me some good info- Heres what I found-

I checked spark using an inline spark tester, found I ONLY have spark to one plug [top left looking at motor] I only had full spark once then I was only seeing the spark when I turned the key off [ meaning at the end of the cranking]

Checked ground of switch box [hooked directly to battery ground] no difference.

could see differences in ohms when checking yellow/black wire and red, blue off stator.

So.....can't believe all 6 coils are bad so both switch boxes went?? Thoughts?
 
In the automotive world it was very common to get spark when the key was returned to the run position. The issue was the coil.

Based on that and what Dr Honda has stated, it is likely your issue.
 
Charge Coils you mean on the Stator? Blue/red. Why just spark on one plug?

How much should my spark advance lever move- I am not seeing a lot of action there and am thinking this might be stopping the Stator from producing spark?

Hey- at least we are getting closer to a fix!! Thanks
 
got readings of 50-55 on trigger with meter on 2000 from all wires for trigger and same readings on wires leading to switch boxes. I think this might be the issue!
 
sorry it took me so long to close this issue but it has been a nightmare! 1st part sent from vendor was broken- 2 weeks. then 2 weeks later they sent me THE SAME BROKEN PART AGAIN!!! UGH!

Add 2 more weeks and got part from local Marina and installed- it was either the Stator or Trigger Switch [replaced both] and now I have spark!

Water tested yesterday and it died 125 yards from dock- lovely day to swim a 2300lb boat back! Pulled almost 2 gallons of water from tank!

Thought issues were solved till I noticed water coming from my engine adaptor gasket!!! It just won't end!

Started another thread on that mess

Thanks to all for your help, I have received great info from members that have helped several times.
 
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