How bad is this?? 1990 SP

[schlik83]

Hey All,

I have been having problems with this Seadoo. I recently bought it in not running condition. Thought I could get it going but it is not working out... heres whats going on...

I have spent the last 3 days researching, reading, and looking through old threads. I have the owners manual and the repair manual.

I have a new battery. I have 155 compression on both cylinders. I have new sparkplugs w gap set at .020in. The best matching plugs I could find at auto parts store were Autolite 404. (That is what we found when we crossreferenced champion RN4C.) I also am sure I have the tether cord properly installed while trying to start.

I have a strong blue spark on both plugs.

I already have all black fuel lines. I, using premix (32:1 or 40:1) and am getting fuel at the carb. This seadoo has the single BN38. My external fuel filter is clean.

When I crank the engine it just turns and does not even act like it wants to start up at all. When I pull plugs after trying to start, they are pretty wet with the fuel/oil mix.

I have tried spraying wd-40 into spark plug hole for a few sec, cleaning/reinstalling plugs, and trying to start. No start, No backfire.

I have also sprayed carb cleaner into carb, held throttle open and tried to start. Did a little backfire and made noises almost like its trying to crank up but does not start.

SO... I figure im getting too much fuel. Maybe needle valve sticking. I also wanted to check on the filter in the carb. I followed all the carb links everyone on here has and could not find one specific to my carb. I took off the carb and cant find the internal fuel filter. The needle valve assembly seems to be correctly adjusted. And the inside of the carb looks pretty clean.

When I went to inspect the rotary valve I found somthing that looks bad. There is a large burr (small carved out piece of the block) behind where the rotary valve spins. This has caused a raised area across the entire surface of the rotary valve. I think somthing came in through the fuel line and got jammed between the valve and block. The block not only has that huge burr but it also has a line dug out going all the way around in a circle and ending at the burr. The burr comes out about .02in to .03in...

Would this cause the no start problems I am having? Can I repair the groves on the block?? If so, How?

Please Help!!! will try to get pics of it on here soon!

 

[timmyboy76]

1990 SP 587...BN-38 (RB) MAIN-100 PILOT-N/A LOW- 1-3/4 HIGH- N/A..
think the injector fitting, on inside of manifold, fell off, causing that gouge...

 

[schlik83]

Thanks for the reply...

where is this injector fitting suppose to go? What does this fitting do?

Do you know of a pic in the manual that shows it?

 

[timmyboy76]

its the fittings that protrudes thru the manifold, that the oil shoots thru, the little lines off oil pump. You'll see it, when/if you have take'n apart...:cheers:

 

[derek]

a beat-up RV face isn't a terrible thing. i have a big gouge in my 720. doesn't even notice it. file off any high spots flat. both on block and cover. get rid of the valve itself if it has any rough edges. long as you are replacing it, buy a 147 degree one and time it like a 93 580. speaking of which; here is how valve should be when front piston is at TDC.

 

[schlik83]

great info! thanks!

What about the no start? Do you guys think this could have been flooding the engine to the point where it would not even try to start?

Even with new/dried off pulgs?

To find tdc can you eyeball it or do you need some kind of gauge?

 

[kustomkarl]

You can use a screwdriver inside the spark plug hole and feel for when the piston reaches TDC, but a guage is more accurate. If you want to spend the money.

Karl

 

[schlik83]

OK,,

Can you guys think of anything else that would cause this Seadoo to not start????

 

[kustomkarl]

This might be the one thing you over looked...Try using the correct spark plugs and gaped correctly. The heat range might be the thing over looked.

Spark Plugs for 2 stroke, NGK BR8ES, Gap/ 0.5-0.6mm or .020-.024in.

WD-40 and, or Carb Cleaner will not help fire up the engine. With the spark plug caps on the grounding post turn the engine over to exit all the wd-40 and carb cleaner out of the engine. Next, mix up some gas and the oil you are using as a pre-mix and add a small amount, say about 1 oz. to the cylinders. Just add it in the spark plug hole and see if it kicks. Leave the spark arrester screen in place over the carb, in case it back fires,( this way it won't cause a fire from gas fumes).

Keep us posted on your progress.

Karl

 

[schlik83]

Will try different plug,,,

I called Advanced auto parts store (only store close to me) and they have a ngk 3961 and a NGK 5422

thats what they get when the check the NGK BR8ES....

He said that these 2 plugs are identical to eachother and should be same plug as BR8ES... and it even says BR8ES on the side of the box...


Do you think one of these will work?
Where do you guys get your plugs?

 

[kustomkarl]

I get mine by the box of 10 from a ex-seadoo dealer...I buy oil by the case lot also. Try either Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts ...Napa might be able to help too. Last resort is the local seadoo dealer or our "PARTS" link at the top of page.

Karl

 

[schlik83]

here are some pics

 

[schlik83]

Do you think the item that got stuck in the rotary valve could have been a piston jacket piece or a bearing?

If it got jammed when it caused the gouge could it have messed up the rotary spline to make the engine not start?

Would that mess up the timing?

 

[kustomkarl]

The thing to remember is this happened on the intake side. Usually if something comes apart it won't go upstream, it would go out the exhaust. Something caused the problem. Check all around the engine cases for something that might have broken off and caused the problem.

Karl

 

[schlik83]

It looks a piece of the oil injection nipple broke off from the valve cover and caused this...
Im taking it all apart soon and I am pretty sure the brass gear got messed up causing the valve to not turn properly...

If my brass gear is chewed up, how hard is it to replace? Also im thinking about just replacing the brass gear and rotary valve... and just cleaning up the valve cover and block where the groves have been made. Do you think that will be ok? or do I have to have the cover and block refinished?

If I have those smoothed out, wont that mess up the valve clearence?

 

[schlik83]

anybody know?

 

[derek]

pull engine out of ski. now the RV shaft can be removed with a slide hammer. the thread in the middle is the common metric thread that half of your seadoo bolts are. it is also the common thread in cheap chinese slide hammers. i cut off a piece of honda battery hold-down bolt and screw it into slide hammer and into RV shaft. (make sure you take out the big retaining ring.) couple of pops and out it comes. they also make a puller you can use with engine installed. never seen one though. buy a used set of cases on ebay that has the RV shaft in it. cheaper than buying new gear.

 

[schlik83]

Im in the middle of pulling the engine now, what about the gouges in the block and rotary cover? Can I smooth those out and mabey try to fill the scrapes in with somthing or do I need to try and find a new block and cover?

Also, I pulled the head and the mag piston has scrapes and gouges and a metal burr on it as well, probibaly from this same piece of metal that gouged the rotary area... I have 155 compression on both cyl, will anything bad happen if I do not replace that piston? Can I just smooth out the piston as well?

 

[schlik83]

anyone have any thoughts on the piston?

 

[timmyboy76]

yah, file darn thing down, should be alright...

 

[derek]

if you have 155 compression, run the pistons that are already paid for. you can find those cases on ebay for 10 to 50 bucks. i actually bought a couple for the RV gear shaft and then got more in scrap money than i paid in the first place. clean up the high spots on the RV face and cover. run the motor as-is. buy new cases over the winter when they are even cheaper and put the guts in the better cases then. it is still summer. if it runs-drive it.

 

[schlik83]

ok,,, thanks for the reply!!