-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Holes in my wear ring?
- Thread starter scooper77515
- Start date
- Status
Chris_cox
New Member
mine had similar holes, luckily the black layer is pretty mush sacrifical from what ive been told, as long as the white layer is in tact you should have lil to no issue
HOWEVER!! being that there is now a space for things to get stuck under the black layer, future degradation may occur more rapidly then normal, hence why i went ahead and had mine replaced
HOWEVER!! being that there is now a space for things to get stuck under the black layer, future degradation may occur more rapidly then normal, hence why i went ahead and had mine replaced
This one is being replaced before it goes in.
Just wondering what caused it, and how it might have affected my performance.
Just wondering what caused it, and how it might have affected my performance.
Chris_cox
New Member
i had similar holes (see my thread about wear issues)
i experienced no cavatation at all, no lack of performance, no ill effect, i mainly did the swap for piece of mind, small rocks/small pieces of wood/debris prolly got suckedup and went though, my impeller showed no signs of damage from anything hard so i havent got a clue about what caused them on my ring
id be more concerned about the drag marks on the rings, looks like your impeller was able to move to the side a lil to much, does the bearing feel like it has any play in it? (side to side, up and down)
i experienced no cavatation at all, no lack of performance, no ill effect, i mainly did the swap for piece of mind, small rocks/small pieces of wood/debris prolly got suckedup and went though, my impeller showed no signs of damage from anything hard so i havent got a clue about what caused them on my ring
id be more concerned about the drag marks on the rings, looks like your impeller was able to move to the side a lil to much, does the bearing feel like it has any play in it? (side to side, up and down)
Engine is cratered, and coming out today, new engine needs to be painted, carbs rebuilt, and assembled before I can be back on the water. So I may as well toss a couple hundred at wear ring parts.
As for the scratches on the ring, I assume I did that the week before I blew the engine up when I ended up on a sandbar...
As for the scratches on the ring, I assume I did that the week before I blew the engine up when I ended up on a sandbar...
Well, engine is out, and it is officially a "winter project". We only have about another month or so of decent warm weather, so instead of rushing to do this all in the next week or so, I will let it stretch over the weekends in the winter. Give me time to verify that all the little "sub-systems" are working as they are supposed to before we take it out and try to break it again:hurray:
That's the fun part...trying to break it all season long...:reddevil:
That's the fun part...trying to break it all season long...:reddevil:
scoop, buy a second pump off of ebay. seadoo stuff is dirt cheap this time of year. then you can have a pump body all ready to go all summer. if you wanna experiment with impeller pitch you can and still have your weekend if you found out this impeller or that one was a bad idea. just switch other pump back.
I have been tossing around the idea of messing with the pitch, but i don't want to lose my top end, and my takeoff is kinda slow, so I guess I am stuck where I am...
Impeller.......
From what I see of the pix of your impeller, it looks o.k. .....But I'd replace the wearing ring. From what I've read, your already on to that. Those holes, even though 80% of the ring meets the clearance guidelines, will cause cavitation.
WHen you say your a bit slow out of the hole, I think that is somewhat normal for the Challenger. I am too. It seems the motor has more power for it than the pump can handle, by the weight of the boat. Remember, this was one of Seadoo's first models into the CHallenger, the first being 1996. So, they have made a lot of changes along the way with them.
You can also play around a little with the RAVE settings. When the shop manual on them first came out, it said to have them all the way down. Then, the following year, they came out with a supplemental that said to run them out flush. SO, I play with them between the two settings.
Scooper, I noticed this was in the PWC thread, so now I'm left thinking, "is this your boat, or your PWC?" I knew you said you blew the engine in the boat, so I just assumed that was what you were talking about.
The engine seems to have a quicker response with them in, but that response really isn't needed when my pump already seems to be out running the boat for the first few seconds at take off anyway. :cheers:
From what I see of the pix of your impeller, it looks o.k. .....But I'd replace the wearing ring. From what I've read, your already on to that. Those holes, even though 80% of the ring meets the clearance guidelines, will cause cavitation.
WHen you say your a bit slow out of the hole, I think that is somewhat normal for the Challenger. I am too. It seems the motor has more power for it than the pump can handle, by the weight of the boat. Remember, this was one of Seadoo's first models into the CHallenger, the first being 1996. So, they have made a lot of changes along the way with them.
You can also play around a little with the RAVE settings. When the shop manual on them first came out, it said to have them all the way down. Then, the following year, they came out with a supplemental that said to run them out flush. SO, I play with them between the two settings.
Scooper, I noticed this was in the PWC thread, so now I'm left thinking, "is this your boat, or your PWC?" I knew you said you blew the engine in the boat, so I just assumed that was what you were talking about.
The engine seems to have a quicker response with them in, but that response really isn't needed when my pump already seems to be out running the boat for the first few seconds at take off anyway. :cheers:
Snipe, pretty sure this is the boat thread...
For impeller you could try swirl... supposed to only lose 1 or 2 at the top end and improve take-off and turns significantly...
I'm thinking I'll go that route if the current one is causing the cavitation... on the lake here the water is rough enough that even at 40 there's too much porpoising, so getting up to 50 is useless to me.
15 second hole shots, that's what I wanna fix!
For impeller you could try swirl... supposed to only lose 1 or 2 at the top end and improve take-off and turns significantly...
I'm thinking I'll go that route if the current one is causing the cavitation... on the lake here the water is rough enough that even at 40 there's too much porpoising, so getting up to 50 is useless to me.
15 second hole shots, that's what I wanna fix!
Could you give me more details about "swirl"...part numbers, where to buy, etc?
The wife doesn't like going full speed anyway, but I would sure like it to take off faster and be able to pull me up on a ski or surfboard.
The wife doesn't like going full speed anyway, but I would sure like it to take off faster and be able to pull me up on a ski or surfboard.
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
Contact Dave at impros 909-370-4900 or http://www.impros.com/ I bought a solas 13/21 concord for my boat and I am happy. He will have what ever you want and he will give you any proformance tips for impellers you are looking for. :cheers:
Robin gave me a link here from Group K... here's the bit on the swirl prop:
The Swirl Props - These impellers, manufactured by Skat Trak in the USA, are the most versatile and effective prop for any 14.5. The swirl is so called because of it’s radially sweeping blade that tapers all the way up to the nose of the impeller. In essence, the swirl prop has the same effect on the 14.5 that wide tires would have on a race car. The swirl design gives this prop a lot more water contact surface area, and thereby a lot less cavitation. The swirl "completely" eliminates the cavitation in high-speed right hand turns (that all other props exhibit). Furthermore, it makes a "huge" reduction in the cavitation experienced during a take off from a dead stop. The only down side to the swirl prop is a slight reduction in peak water-speed. This reduction is a result of the extra drag caused by the extra surface area. However, even with that speed loss, we consider the swirl a mandatory upgrade for anyone using their 14.5 in a "towing" or "sport riding" application … the added hook-up is well worth the speed loss … and then some.
An added feature of the swirl impeller is it’s ability to "cut and clear" debris … better than any other prop. The tapered blades of the swirl allow grass to easily get moved between the prop blade and the wear ring, where they are cut and blown through … blender style. We consider the swirl prop to be a mandatory upgrade for anyone operating is grassy or seaweed laden waters.
Since Skat Trak does not manufacture an impeller with the correct pitch for the 14.5 boats, all new Skat Trak impellers purchased from Group K are re-pitched by us to the correct spec for your engine arrangement.
The Swirl Props - These impellers, manufactured by Skat Trak in the USA, are the most versatile and effective prop for any 14.5. The swirl is so called because of it’s radially sweeping blade that tapers all the way up to the nose of the impeller. In essence, the swirl prop has the same effect on the 14.5 that wide tires would have on a race car. The swirl design gives this prop a lot more water contact surface area, and thereby a lot less cavitation. The swirl "completely" eliminates the cavitation in high-speed right hand turns (that all other props exhibit). Furthermore, it makes a "huge" reduction in the cavitation experienced during a take off from a dead stop. The only down side to the swirl prop is a slight reduction in peak water-speed. This reduction is a result of the extra drag caused by the extra surface area. However, even with that speed loss, we consider the swirl a mandatory upgrade for anyone using their 14.5 in a "towing" or "sport riding" application … the added hook-up is well worth the speed loss … and then some.
An added feature of the swirl impeller is it’s ability to "cut and clear" debris … better than any other prop. The tapered blades of the swirl allow grass to easily get moved between the prop blade and the wear ring, where they are cut and blown through … blender style. We consider the swirl prop to be a mandatory upgrade for anyone operating is grassy or seaweed laden waters.
Since Skat Trak does not manufacture an impeller with the correct pitch for the 14.5 boats, all new Skat Trak impellers purchased from Group K are re-pitched by us to the correct spec for your engine arrangement.
Which Swirl for the 97 Challenger? I am getting mixed messages from the websites, 16.5-23.5 or 16/21?
Impros is out at Lake Havasu til monday, and I would like to order one sooner than that if any one knows which one I need.
Impros is out at Lake Havasu til monday, and I would like to order one sooner than that if any one knows which one I need.
OK, I ended up talking to Dave and Impros, and he sent me a 16/24 Skat-Trak Swirl.
So what was the original pitch on the stock impeller?
I would like to see what difference this Swirl is from the stock impeller.
So what was the original pitch on the stock impeller?
I would like to see what difference this Swirl is from the stock impeller.
- Status
Similar threads
