Hitch Pin VS Grade 8 Bolt

[Guest_User]

I`ve heard some controversy about using a bolt instead of a trailer hitch pin for the Ball mount to receiver.
Most of not all locking hitch or draw pins are not certified so how would you know the hardness?

I don`t think a 5/8 grade 8 yellow plated bolt will shear.
I do have some quality locking hitch pins which also appear to be stainless. One is solid while the other is sleeved for 2 inside diameter sizes.
In the off season, I have used the grade 8 bolt with a D ring receiver, and many have used this as well while pulling out a 4K pound vehicle.

so what does the forum say? is a grade 8 bolt ok for use with towing? and if not why, please explain?
Thanks...

here`s a few pics of what I have used...

The last pic is the D ring receiver for off road...

 

[griz400]

Grade 8 is stronger than the grade whatever standard hitch pin. hitch pin will bend and break before Gr8 even starts to bend, much less break. Torquing the bolt to +150 ft-lbs. eliminates all "slop". Hitch bar is like a rock == but, you have to change reciever assy with wrenches, and, i would only use grade 8 if my reciever was a "solid one " not the hollow type, then torqing down is not an issue, and whole hitch is solid -- about the only ones that shear are like these diesel farm trcks with like a horse trailer, some of my customers have told me..the solid bar type recievers are the best ...

 

[racerxxx]

I'm a standard hitch pin guy, I have them in abundance for plows and trailer hitches, easy to use and have never let me down. I try to never leave my draw bar in the receiver, I have had one rust in there so bad I actually went and bought an entirely new hitch for my Yukon (yes it was greased). I've seen guys bolt them and I don't see a problem with it. Now if you had a trailer that broke free from your truck the authorities MIGHT have a problem with it. Around me the authorities DOT inspect tons of landscape guys daily, I'd bet they would have a field day with it.

Now the one with the sleeve, that is for a class 1 and 2 receivers, then with the sleeve you can hit class 3+.

 

[Dr Honda]

ACK !!!!!! NO !!!!!!!!


OK... there are some misconceptions going on here. A "Grade 8" bolt is not the best thing for all jobs !!!! if it was... there wouldn't be any other kind of hardware.

Bolt strength is measured in tensile strength. That is measured in only one direction... and that's being pulled. To get higher tensile numbers... they harden the bolt. The problem is... as the bolt gets "Harder"... it gets brittle. in general... a grade 8 bolt will not flex, or stretch. It will simply snap. Also... a bolt was designed to clamp 2 parts together... and in turn... that clapping force helps to hold things together.

So... if you take a grade 2 bolt and pull... it will stretch, and then break. A grade 8 may take more force... but there will be no warning... and it will just shatter. (sound good for a trailer pin?)


A great example is over in the RZR forums. There was a bunch of guys getting pissed that they were bending the stock suspension pins on a RZR. So, they had the great idea of finding grade 8 bolts that were long enough to fit. I tried to explaine it's the wrong thing to use... but they didn't listen either. SO.... after a couple rides... they broke the bolts. (and had to rig the RZR to get back to the trailer) So... I asked them... was it better to have a bent bolt, or a broken bolt?


OK... on top of that... there are more than one kind of steel, and there is more than one way to manufacture things. A bolt is normally high carbon steel wire, and it is simply cut, and formed into a bolt. Then, they heat treat them to the hardness needed to give them a grade.

A hitch pin is normally a mid carbon steel, and is forged. The forging process makes the bolt strong, but it still remains flexible.


With all of that said... a bolt is TOTALY the wrong thing for the job. 1) It's not designed to take a side load, and because if the loose fit, the banning back and forth of the receiver will snap it. 2) The threads or shoulder become a shear point.

I would only use a bolt in an emergency, and I would probably use a grade 5, (to have some flex) I would use a bolt that had a shoulder long enough, so the threads would not bear any of the load... AND... I would not use a bolt for anything heavier than a basic utility trailer.


Just my 2 cents... take it for what it's worth.....




****EDIT****

Pale Rider: that shackle is a good example too. You can buy a shackle the same size at the hardware store... but it's only good for 800 Lbs. BUT... go to the offroad section... and they are good for 10,000 Lbs. WHY ??? because the one's meant for heavy duty use are FORGED... not hardened.

 

[Guest_User]

that is an awesome response, exactly what I was looking for... Thanks Doc... :thumbsup:

 

[m.colley]

Yup the DOC shared the same basic info with me last year when I had a issue with a exhaust manifold. Since then I've done a little research and found his explanation to be spot on.. I replaced the grade 8 stud and bolts with grade 5 and haven't had any issues..

Martin

 

[tmthunder]

DOC is 100% correct bolts are not rated or graded for side load. Forged pins are the only way to go if you are pulling anything that has some weight to it or you value. Also as a side note if something were to happen and you are not using the correct equipment that gives the insurance companies a way to get out of paying your claim.

 

[bigJake]

Yup the DOC shared the same basic info with me last year when I had a issue with a exhaust manifold. Since then I've done a little research and found his explanation to be spot on.. I replaced the grade 8 stud and bolts with grade 5 and haven't had any issues..

Martin

WHAT, You doubted the Doc and sought verification??? Blashpehemy! Crucify him!
oh, sorry, guess I got a little too caught up in the Bible series on the History channel...:redface:

 

[Spimothy Leary]

so... zip ties wont work ... ?