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Help request to get my RXX working..

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FinRxx

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Hi all, and greetings from Finland.
This is my first post, and my RXX is new to me.
I have a technical background and most tools, but PWC's are new to me.

I wish I could start with some happy post, but no..

So i bought this SD as a no-runner (in a dark warehouse, stupid me), as it was supposed to have a bad starter, otherwise in a good order (150 hours and engine gone through at 130hrs).

Well the starter was only rusted and stuck, and now working fine.
Fired right up, but with huge grinding noise. Took the Skat-Trak pump off and noticed that the impeller is beyond repairable, and the impeller shaft has snapped. New parts from Skat, and solas concorde 15/21 impeller installed.

Yesterday went for first try, and nearly sinked..
Driveshaft had rubbed through the thru-hull and water was flowing in the hull..
Epoxied the hull and installed aluminium insert, installed new carbon ring, bellows etx.

Today a second try.
Still water coming in, but as it it warm, I am sure it is from cooling circuit, and I'm sure I will find the problem.
Engine starts great, and is running ok. Small hesitation and misfires, but not bad.

Problem is, that it is only turning 6500rpm and speed is then 92km/h or 57mph gps.
So i am missing power.
Raves cleaned, new plugs, conpression spot on, and all basic things are done. Found a lot of help from here, so thanks, and now i think i found the problem...
My oil injection is removed, and throttle cable changed.
I read that it is supposed to have a TPS, and this doesn't have that at all!
So I think my timing is stuck to basic setting, and that causes the problem.
So could you experts verify this, or am I completely wrong?

Thanks in advance, Ville.
 
I definitely find that internal leak,,,it will not rev out if the motor is hot,.and you risk seizing a piston!
 
How difficult are those pipes to install and remove? Can you get to anything with them on there??
 
You are not going to want to hear this but your best bet it to pull everything apart. I would inspect everything inside the engine, pressure test engine ect. My rxx is heavily modified beyond what the factory did. My mpem has been reflashed to eliminate tps and increase rev limiter. Your case cooler on the bottom of the crankcase could be the culprit for the water leak oem plastic was replaced with a billet miller case cooler. The most critical part of the twins is replacement of the orings every time the pipes are split. Also getting oem gasket for the pipe to cylinder the aftermarket don't make a good seal.
 
1of500 said:
You are not going to want to hear this but your best bet it to pull everything apart. I would inspect everything inside the engine, pressure test engine ect. My rxx is heavily modified beyond what the factory did. My mpem has been reflashed to eliminate tps and increase rev limiter. Your case cooler on the bottom of the crankcase could be the culprit for the water leak oem plastic was replaced with a billet miller case cooler. The most critical part of the twins is replacement of the orings every time the pipes are split. Also getting oem gasket for the pipe to cylinder the aftermarket don't make a good seal.
Click to expand...
You Da Man !! Looks like it take a lot of passion two own one of these and care for it correctly. I'd like to see some pictures of yours and the work you did in progress.
 
Thanks for all the tips and links!
I will continue my background studies and investigations!

My plan is to open everything, as I don't trust the seller and the stories of previous maintenence, and I am a believer of preventative maintenance..
But as our season is only few months here, I'm planning to do that during the winter.

I try to find the leak today and order the cable with the tps next. Is the sensor supposed to connenct to harness? Have to locate the connector then.

One more question, the trim. Is it supposed to be stiff and hard to use? Movement in the pump is smooth, but while driving, feels that the lever will snap as it is so tight! Does the hull have a habit to bounce in slower speeds, as this one does..

Thank you for all the help I got allready.

Ville
 
Just keep in mind that the RXX is a race ski and is supposed to be torn apart and inspected regularly. This isn’t a throw gas in it and see what happens or a wait till next season for maintenance ski.

It’s a 150HP 950 twin. All other manufacturers had to go to 1200+cc triples to get that power so to say it’s highly stressed is an understatement.
 
I understand wanting to get out there and ride but an rxx isn't a gas and go machine. They are the most difficult and labor intensive 2 stroke to keep operational the wrist pins are recommended to be replaced at 25 hours. The piston need extra clearance when doing a top end replacement to prevent seizure. Good fuel is a must.
 
I would check the part number on the mpem to see if it is original or maybe a reflashed replacement
 
1of500 said:
I understand wanting to get out there and ride but an rxx isn't a gas and go machine. They are the most difficult and labor intensive 2 stroke to keep operational the wrist pins are recommended to be replaced at 25 hours. The piston need extra clearance when doing a top end replacement to prevent seizure. Good fuel is a must.
Click to expand...

And they only made 500 of them [emoji23]
 
Yup...on my 800 LTD,,,GETTING 35 hard closed course racing hours on it is a blessing,,
...
1of500 said:
I understand wanting to get out there and ride but an rxx isn't a gas and go machine. They are the most difficult and labor intensive 2 stroke to keep operational the wrist pins are recommended to be replaced at 25 hours. The piston need extra clearance when doing a top end replacement to prevent seizure. Good fuel is a must.
Click to expand...
 
Oh and by the way the rxx is not meant to be a cruiser there is a dreaded lean spot at around 3/4 throttle
 
Hi, managed to get a bit forward.. and yes, it is not looking good..

MPEM had tags on it "8910 0003" and "071000-1502" after a search, I believe this is the original part?
Problem is, that in pictures, I see that the TPS has a three wire plug. I can not find any such loose plug in the hull.
Any thoughts how is this possible?

Other sad observations:
-Red water hose on rear pipe was broken, the inlet piece is rubbing to hull and needs modification.
-Water was flowing out of one head bolt.

And seems that all hose clamps etc. are loose. Where ever I look, I see something loose.. tells a lot of the previous work done..

So as a summary, I have zero faith to this machine right now.
I will just start to take it apart and try to make it good again.
Maybe next season I have something working...

And thanks for the warnings of rxx being a bit difficult. I am aware of that, and have a backgroud with same level equipment. It was actually the reason to buy it, to get some new challenges.. well, that went as planned.
 
In my opinion the road you are choosing is the "only" path to continued reliability. Even good running skis have many problems. It is best to go through everything and "make it right." It is a lot of work but the end result is worth the effort. Good Luck and post pictures of your journey.
 
Last edited:
I'll bet owning a ski like that makes one a hell of an expert on the model and all 951s. :D Cept of course the DI. Ha ha.
 
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