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Help me help my 96 speedster

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JoshDragon

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I found this boat while looking for a pair of jet skis. Once I seen it in person and heard it run We decided to take it home. I got it with a wake board, tube and 5 life jackets.
I did compression test and ran 143-147 on all cylinders.

-1st time out ran her for 25-30 minutes decided to dive and swim off the boat got ready to go in and this happened left engine wouldn't idle or start with out giving it 1/4 Throttle. Right engine wouldn't run at all. Made pulling it in to the launch extremely fun! (This is my first watercraft)
-What I discovered/diagnosed trouble shooting when I got home, b8es plugs fouled with gaps between .038-.042, old watery gas, plug wire caps were stretched to were you couldn't feel it click on the plugs.
-What I did- drained all gas into my lawn tractor, new br8es since it calls for a resistor gapped at.022, 5 gallons of 91 octane ethanol free, snipped 1/4" off of each plug wire and installed new caps.

-2nd trip launched the boat started right up cold in the water cleared no wake WOT WOW! Played around taking turns driving it like a go cart inside the brake wall. Decided to take on the 2 foot waves even more fun! (My buddy and I are laughing and grinning while my wife is screaming and digging her nails in my arm) go back in the safety of the break wall,
She wants to drive it now! 10 minutes in runs out of gas so I switch to reserve left engine fires right up, right engine just cold cranks limp it back on 1 engine again.
- searched this site here and diagnosed clogged pet cock
- this boat already has fuel injection hose. I simplified two direct lines off the reserve line and capped the old regular. I added filters after the stock separators and petcocks about 10" before carb to switch off and idle out.

-3rd trip out found a new launch closer to home that is a lot easier on the clutch in my 2000 crv hd lol. The down fall is there is about a mile of slow river loaded with kayakers before hitting Lake Erie. It was also loaded with bald eagles saw 6 in our trip.
Back to point we finally hit the lake go wot then carve around for a bit stop to hook up the tube and give it ago. Mash the sticks and feels like a clutch Is slipping. Start messing with it and realize it's just the right engine. We start limping it back at about 4500 rpm is when it feels like slipping. I make my friend drive and pop the hatch under 4000 rpm I was getting a water spray under the pto shroud, at wot a noticeably more air bubbles in the right jet stream.
- what I diagnose carbon rings!
- I researched the job here and am confident I can do it. Opened the hatch to take a look and see if maybe I had a ripped boot but this is what I saw. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437616693.555421.jpg

-this is what I was expectingImageUploadedByTapatalk1437616749.104757.jpg

Thank you and sorry if it's a really long post I wanna get this sorted out fast snow will fly in 2 months
 
That hand, and crappy Timex looks familiar.

Well.....


You have a 95 seal in your boat. The '96 should have the carbon seals like in the bottom pic.

With carbon seals, there will be some water spray. Totally normal. With an actuall seal pack... there should be ZERO leakage.

Do me a favor, and look under the hull. Does each pump have it's own pick up in the water... or is it one central pickup, and splits off to each pump? Also... what Speedster is it? There was a 14.5' and a 16'.

The feeling of a "Slipping Clutch" is cavitation. That's either caused my high clearance in the pump... damage to the pump... or an air leak. (normally on the shaft seal)

Regardless... I would pull the pumps, pull the shafts, and rebuild the shaft seals. There's an inner, and outer seal... and a roller bearing.
 
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There is only one central port I pulled the title out and turns out it is a 95. it is the 14.5' hull.
what are the clearances on the wear rings?
Will any of the steps from your picture I found trolling the forums still apply or can I just yank the pumps first?
 
OK...

the '95 is almost a totally different beast. Different bottom hull, electrical, pumps, seals, drives, and engines. FYI... you have a pair of 657x engines... and not 720's. Basically, they just look the same.

But... as above... since you have a leak in... rebuild the seals. Using a very good waterproof grease may get you another trip, (I like "Green Grease")while waiting for parts. BUT, if the center bearing has been wet... I don't know if I would chance it. SeaDoo moved away from that style seal, because when they fail... the bearing will normally seize to the shaft, and then rip the boot, and the mount in the hull. When that happens, you have a 2" hole in your boat... and they sink relatively fast. The carbon seal to some is a pain in the butt, since they can leak air into the pumps... but the positive side is, they NEVER fail bad enough to sink the boat.


As a final FYI... when you buy the rebuild kits... MAKE SURE, 100%... that the bearing is stainless steel !!! There are some inexpensive kits that use regular bearings, and they fail quick, if water gets in.
 
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I just bought that sealed bearing coupler for my boat. It's a 94 speedster and has the same setup. Make sure you get the rubber buttons that go on each end of the shaft. Now is a good time to replace the pto boot as well.
 
JoshDragon said:
What are the rubber buttons?
Click to expand...

The rubber buttons help take up the slack between the pto and the impeller, due to the tolerances of building mass quantities of boats. You will need to grease the pto, and that helps force the shaft back into the impeller. Consider getting that impeller to shaft seal also. Mine was a bit sloppy, but I plan on doing the wear rings off season, January, and will replace them then.
 
JoshDragon said:
Thanks Dr Honda! I wonder if those kits include everything I will need
Click to expand...

Yes everything is included, as well as, the shaft bumpers. While the pumps are off I would change the pump oil and check or just replace the wear rings.
Don't forget the neoprene seals.
 
Thanks everyone I logged about 10 hours Saturday and Sunday.
I am noticing some issues I would like to correct aswell before I order parts I'd like to see what I need to look into and save on shipping.
1. Left engine will pause at 4500 rpm until it breaks plane. Revs and responds well after
2. Left engine struggles to idle. will idle at 1500 rpm with throttle bumped 1/2" off bottom
3. Both engines are bears to start/ warm up after getting cold in water
4. I sporadically get a LOUD ear piercing screech threw the buzzer on cold start ups that doesn't go away until you rev it out.
5. What is a good way to clean the bilge out every thing is coated/oily
6.Where can I find a vin on the factory trailer to get it titled and plated instead of stealing my dad's.

This boat is awesome. Just wish I could figure out how to wake board instead of getting lake water enimas!
 
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Iirc, sea doo used a sticker to put the Vin on. It is probably long gone. In texas, you can request a Vin from the dmv.
Sounds like you have carb problems to me. Have you cleaned them, as in removing from the boat, take apart and clean, and adjust?
 
Ok I'm hoping for a quick help here I changed my plugs and wires and can't remember the order the wires go to the cylinder. It starts up on both routes? Does it matter witch wire goes where?
 
The order doesn't matter. Sounds like a carb problem on your left engine. To clean the bilge I've found super clean to work extremely well. Just spray it on and after a couple of minutes hose it down.
 
9 trouble free hours Sunday on Lake Erie Sunday! Got a job offer in Tampa Monday morning unfortunately have to sell the boat before relocating.
 
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