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help me find a good mechanic to work on a 98 sporster 1800 in Daytona

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jeffbeckib

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I'm in Daytona, and I would like a qualified technician to just take a look at this boat I purchased and give me an honest opinion about how it's running. I can't find anybody within 100 miles, and I would prefer somebody closer, or somebody who can come to me. Anybody have any buddies out here? Plenty of places to work on Jet Ski's around here, but nobody wants to even look at a seadoo Jetboat. And I'm getting tired of hearing the giggling when I tell them what boat I have.
 
Being that you live in FL, there should be PLENTY of people to help you.

It is winter time and the forum slows down a bit. Be patient, I am sure someone from your general area will chime in...
 
one would think, but I have yet to find anybody that will even entertain HEARING the words Seadoo Jet Boat without Running for the hills.
God, is this boat really this bad???
 
Macon, ga

It is funny to them, because you have to be a bat to work on them.

Mercury power or Rotax?

Plus the tools are becoming antiques.
 
Try PM'ing [MENTION=35752]Rampage[/MENTION], he's a SeaDoo mechanic in Bradenton, maybe y'all can work something out or he may know someone closer to you.

Lou
 
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If you are even the slightest bit mechanically inclined, you can probably handle it yourself with the help of the members here. Do you have a specific concern or is there an obvious problem?
 
Try PM'ing [MENTION=35752]Rampage[/MENTION], he's a SeaDoo mechanic in Bradenton, maybe y'all can work something out or he may know someone closer to you.

Lou

great idea, I also mention PPG, but he is to far from them...

I think the best thing is to find someone who works on these on the side, like a few of us here. It may be time consuming, but not knowing how to repair your boat is and can be frustrating. I can see why the dealers don`t work on these anymore, but besides that, there are a few that do, just have to dig in and call around and make contact...

Good luck...

Sorry I couldn`t be more helpful...
 
I would say I can probably handle anything with good instructions. I'm not up on abbreviated terminology for certain things so I need clear instructions. I've replaced valve gaskets on my BMW using instructions I found on Google, I can't imagine I couldn't handle some basic troubleshooting. When it comes to using meters I just need to know exactly what to set the meter to when testing voltage etc.

So right now, my main concerns are:

1) why the riders side motor cuts out when idle, and this only started happening after the motor was nice and warmed up from riding around. It did not do this when I launched the boat and had both engines running while tied up at the dock. To keep that engine running I need to start it while giving the boat some throttle, then she's fine. Once I get the boat moving it seems to be running good.

2) Why did my tacho for that same motor suddenly die at the same time I had the above issue.

the rest are small things like gauges not working etc.

Leo


If you are even the slightest bit mechanically inclined, you can probably handle it yourself with the help of the members here. Do you have a specific concern or is there an obvious problem?
 
Not trying to be funny.

the site apparently will not let you embed links, so you will have to put this one together.

google this phrase > seadoo shop manual > it will be the first link, free download, get an appropriate manual.

start with a compression test.

1 st problem sounds like fuel, now is the time to go through it , new selectors, fuel filter assemblies, fuel line, rebuild carbs, not hard\ < maybe even pickup / baffle if the connections look bad.

really just a few Saturdays of tinkering, you will spend more time reading the instructions for the carb rebuild than it will take you to do it.

when you open up the old carbs, remove strainer and inspect, probably going to be full of junk.

need to check pop-off , easy to build a tool on that one, do you own an air compressor?, you will have to make a screw driver to get the low jets out, I usually just take a grinder and whittle one down.

but really , you could just pull the carbs and mail them to someone for rebuild, it is a little job, very easy, probably $200 in labor at my rate.

but always start diagnosis with a compression test, post back results, try to get it from a snap on gauge, if you do not have one pick one up NOW if you are going to stay in this hobby.

just ask if you have any more questions.

I would also buy some otiker pliers off ebay < double sided, and place an order to McMaster for clamps.
 
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Gauges will be a little more in depth, but I can scrounge you up a pdf for that boat, with a wiring diagram.
 
For reference, the above job would probably be close to 600, at my location, I would usually pull the tank and dump it, but that can not happen on the boats with out pulling the engines.
 
sorry, when I saw ****** thought it was a joke. I went to that site but there's no manual for the sportster, it only lists jet skis.
 
I always try to keep things simple first. With any 2 stroke I've ever had, when it started running rough i threw in new spark plugs. A lot of times that fixed the issue. If that doesn't fix it, I would then start with the fuel system. Make sure the gas is fresh. Make sure the tank isn't full of crud. Then check your fuel lines and filters. Read up here on the grey fuel line issue. I think 98 is the year they switched over, so you may have the old grey lines or the newer regular black fuel lines. Finally, i would look into a carb rebuild. If you aren't comfortable with doing that, there are several guys that you can send em to that rebuild them very reasonably priced.
 
same engine as the skis, everything in those manuals is applicable up to wiring and even that is standard back to the engines.

if your savy do some googling and you will find the specific manual for your year jet boat, but any one of those from about 95 and up will have the 720 in them,is that the engine you are working with? It should say on the front top of the magneto cover in cc's.

The only differences I ever found were older Loctite numbers vs the newer manuals.
 
I do not think they used the tempo [grey lines] on the boats, the only lines I have ever seen were the uscg approved thick wall lines, but I usually just go to oriellys and get regular fuel line, not the preferred coast guard option but the cost effective one.

it has to do with permeation = vapor in bulk and burn time = I think they are rated for 1 hour, I don't remember all the research I have done on that subject , they are about 3 times in cost.

Also check the vent at that time , dirt dobbers love to make them homes.

I always dissasmble it all and blow and suck to make sure every valve is working as it should, there should be about 5 psi before it releases + or - and there should be 2 an in and an out.

Warning : I will not say to replace the uscg lines to a customer, just my personal boats, I always let them make the decision on what material they want after a counsel.

but I would say that the life of the rubber is past = particles in carb strainers and they get loose on the nipples after time = lean.
 
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