Help/ guidance with new seat cover

[gerstec]

Hey everyone,
I hope you all have been enjoying your Jet skis this summer! So, my 97 GSX seat finally bit the dust and has torn in several places. Just so you are aware, I have done a bunch of replacement seat covers but they were all for Yahmaha skis. I had no issues with those. Unfortunately with mine I'm having a really hard time. I can't seem to get the center (where the seat bends or arches down) tight. It keeps pulling upward causing there to be a lifted pocket of air. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong and would love to get this done before I go away for a week of riding.

Does anyone have any advice on how to do this correctly? Where should I start stapling so I avoid the bubble at the inward bend?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to read this!

 

[GGuillot]

I just did this on my 97" GTX earlier in year, I don't recall too much of an issue. Are you installing a Hydro Turf or Black Tip cover? On my Hydro Turf I slipped the front on first but didn't staple it, then snugged it in the rear and got it lined up (seam) started stapling there then worked my way back to the front. The last part I stapled was in the front latch area. I had a heat gun which helped soften it up. To avoid that air bubble in the bend I didn't staple the front by the latch very tight.

 

[gerstec]

I just did this on my 97" GTX earlier in year, I don't recall too much of an issue. Are you installing a Hydro Turf or Black Tip cover? On my Hydro Turf I slipped the front on first but didn't staple it, then snugged it in the rear and got it lined up (seam) started stapling there then worked my way back to the front. The last part I stapled was in the front latch area. I had a heat gun which helped soften it up. To avoid that air bubble in the bend I didn't staple the front by the latch very tight.

Hey thank you for the response. I'm using the black tip. I had started at the rear of the seat and it was really tight and centered. As I worked my way to the front I began to have the issue of it wrinkling and then bubbling. By the way what type of staple gun did you use? Pneumatic or the manual squeeze stapler?

 

[gerstec]

Thanks again to anyone who helps!

 

[GGuillot]

Hey thank you for the response. I'm using the black tip. I had started at the rear of the seat and it was really tight and centered. As I worked my way to the front I began to have the issue of it wrinkling and then bubbling. By the way what type of staple gun did you use? Pneumatic or the manual squeeze stapler?

Manual gun, a Black and Decker Sure Shot I've had forever and 3/8" T-50 stainless staples from Home Depot.

 

[gerstec]

Manual gun, a Black and Decker Sure Shot I've had forever and 3/8" T-50 stainless staples from Home Depot.

Alright cool. Thank you for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it

 

[racerxxx]

Go pneumatic. Only way to fly. I couldn't imaging doing it manual. Not to mention can you get in tight places? Harbor Freight 68029 is the model number. Best $20 I ever spent. Iv'e done numerous seadoo seats for my self and others, dirt bikes and some other staple fastening.

This was one I did a few weeks back.

 

[racerxxx]

I position the cover where i "think" I want it. Staple in far (look at my seat pics above, see the old staple holes in far) to start with. a few in the back and few in the front, stretch the sides tight and toss a few in there. Stretch, manipulate, what ever a staple here a staple there until you see where it's gonna wrinkle, bolster or fold. Then you need to adjust your technique. Measure the logos from the bottom of them to the seat pan on both sides, make sure they're the same distance. Once you have it where you can work with it, staple in the original location at the edge of the pan. Always working, stretching, pulling etc.... Then trim around the edge to get rid of the excess material. That seat cover took me about 1.5 hours start to finish.

 

[jjsinaz]

I have one of those staple guns too. Used it to recover my GTX seats. Best 20 bucks I ever spent as well. Another HF tool I got when I was redoing my GTX was the $8.99 heat gun. I've used it for many things and if it broke tomorrow, it wouldn't owe me a dime

 

[GGuillot]

I have one of those staple guns too. Used it to recover my GTX seats. Best 20 bucks I ever spent as well. Another HF tool I got when I was redoing my GTX was the $8.99 heat gun. I've used it for many things and if it broke tomorrow, it wouldn't owe me a dime

Harbor Freight is great, I also got that special at $8.99 on the heat gun, and the best tool ever is the 2 inch air sander for $22. I can run it all day at 45 psi when sanding gelcoat. Also a $35 7 inch digital buffer and $35 for a 12 volt viking charger. RESTO on my GTX over the last year gave me all the excuses to run out to HF.

 

[gerstec]

Go pneumatic. Only way to fly. I couldn't imaging doing it manual. Not to mention can you get in tight places? Harbor Freight 68029 is the model number. Best $20 I ever spent. Iv'e done numerous seadoo seats for my self and others, dirt bikes and some other staple fastening.

This was one I did a few weeks back.

Wow that seat came out incredible. Where did you start in order to not have the bubble?

 

[gerstec]

I position the cover where i "think" I want it. Staple in far (look at my seat pics above, see the old staple holes in far) to start with. a few in the back and few in the front, stretch the sides tight and toss a few in there. Stretch, manipulate, what ever a staple here a staple there until you see where it's gonna wrinkle, bolster or fold. Then you need to adjust your technique. Measure the logos from the bottom of them to the seat pan on both sides, make sure they're the same distance. Once you have it where you can work with it, staple in the original location at the edge of the pan. Always working, stretching, pulling etc.... Then trim around the edge to get rid of the excess material. That seat cover took me about 1.5 hours start to finish.

I didn't realize you had already answered my question. Thank you so much. That is very helpful.

 

[gerstec]

Thank you everyone who responded with advice. I really appreciate it and I'm grateful to be part of a community that is so helpful and kind.

 

[mikidymac]

So to add to this, if you aren't putting the new cover over the old you will need to cover the foam in plastic or it will soak up water through the seams. Also you need to use Monel staples or they will rust out, even the stainless will in salt.

 

[racerxxx]

So to add to this, if you aren't putting the new cover over the old you will need to cover the foam in plastic or it will soak up water through the seams. Also you need to use Monel staples or they will rust out, even the stainless will in salt.

I never put plastic over the foam, it's meant to get wet, seadoo never put plastic on them, I've taken many seats apart that were wet with original covers on them. I've also never used monel staples, T50 from home depot, stainless. I ride in salt water 75 percent of the time.

Here's my HX seat cover, just took the pic. Never left the house this year, sitting covered outside all year. No rust, t50 stainless staples.

 

[mikidymac]

It’s typically the stitched covers like the blacktip and jet trim that will let water into the foam, acts as a big sponge and the stock covers have no stitches to let water in. On the staples the stainless ones say not for marine use on the box. But in the end use whatever you prefer.

 

[racerxxx]

It’s typically the stitched covers like the blacktip and jet trim that will let water into the foam, acts as a big sponge and the stock covers have no stitches to let water in. On the staples the stainless ones say not for marine use on the box. But in the end use whatever you prefer.

I hear you on the staples. I'm sure its just a cover your azz by the manufacturer so guys aren't out covering $2k in seats only to find out they might rust cause the cheap Chinese stainless they use. I think the Monel staples are 304 stainless, still good enough for water use and won't rust. I was just giving my real world experience with the Home Depot T50 staples in salt water usage. That cover was put on in 2013, 5 years no rust. I always cringe when guys gripe about salt water, honestly it's not that bad........if people would actually care for their toys. Sorry if I came off the wrong way Mik.

 

[mikidymac]

I hear you on the staples. I'm sure its just a cover your azz by the manufacturer so guys aren't out covering $2k in seats only to find out they might rust cause the cheap Chinese stainless they use. I think the Monel staples are 304 stainless, still good enough for water use and won't rust. I was just giving my real world experience with the Home Depot T50 staples in salt water usage. That cover was put on in 2013, 5 years no rust. I always cringe when guys gripe about salt water, honestly it's not that bad........if people would actually care for their toys. Sorry if I came off the wrong way Mik.

Not at all Racer. If everyone took as good of care of their toys as some of us we wouldn't need the forum. Don't get me started on cheap stainless parts.