Had an issue on the water, and now I have a bigger issue

[loungn14]

First thanks for taking time to read the thread

I need some guidance. Took my 95 GTX out on the water with my little man and was going great. Next thing we know we heard a thud, and the engine died.

Basic troubleshooting, and couldn't turn the engine. Tried by hand eta nada, so towed back to the shore and threw her on the trailer to look at when we got home.

So started ripping her apart and found the issue (or issues I guess as it may seem)

I purchased the ski used and it looks like when the last person did the carbs they didn't use locktite. Apparently one of the screws came lose, and found its way down the carb and was lodged. I was able to find it and remove it after removing the carbs. When I did that I felt a door almost spring shut. (for reference I assume thats the rotary valve?)

I put the carbs back in and also had ordered the top part of the intake as apparently I was missing pieces and started her up. It was rough at first, and after giving it some gas, engine seems fine. BUT....now It seems to shoot a decent amount of oil out of the exhaust that continued after turning it off. I never let it run for more then 30 seconds off the hose. Its not a ton of oil, but a decent puddle that I have never had seen before.

I assume a seal or something is screwed up, and can appreciate any guidance. Sorry for not giving more proper terms as I am a rookie at ski repair, but reading almost all the threads on the board daily and learning a ton. I am going to perform a compression test today to see what I am dealing with.

Thanks again for reading, and thanks in advance for any advice

 

[loungn14]

Pic of what I am seeing

 

[mikidymac]

Every time I have seen that is has been a leaky needle and seat. Rebuild the carbs with new genuine Mikuni kits and needle and seats. Get new carb base gaskets and reuse your factory springs ans the ones in the kit are wrong.

 

[loungn14]

Every time I have seen that is has been a leaky needle and seat. Rebuild the carbs with new genuine Mikuni kits and needle and seats. Get new carb base gaskets and reuse your factory springs ans the ones in the kit are wrong.

ok great, really appreciate the advice. I just figured something broke as the ski was working perfectly fine before. I guess maybe the screw going through the carb could have damaged something in the carbs themselves.

 

[mikidymac]

There isn't anything that the screw would have damaged going through the carb. Typically just old.

Did the screw make it into the rotary valve or did it just get stuck in the carb butterfly valve?

 

[loungn14]

There isn't anything that the screw would have damaged going through the carb. Typically just old.

Did the screw make it into the rotary valve or did it just get stuck in the carb butterfly valve?

ah gotcha, as I had the carbs rebuilt last year.

It made it to the rotary valve, and cause the engine not to turn. I was able to remove the carbs themselves and reach in and put it out as it was lodged

 

[mikidymac]

You are going to have to pull the rotary cover and check for damage.

 

[Luv2Camp]

When the engine gets stuck, the brass rotary valve gear will most likely strip. The rotary valve in turn spins the oil pump so a stripped or partially stripped gear can also impact your ability to get the correct amount of oil to the engine.

 

[mikidymac]

Not to mention the damage a bolt can have on the rotary valve, the cases and the surface of the cover.

 

[loungn14]

Hey guys thanks for the replies. I removed the cover as requested and here are some pictures. I unfortunately don't know what I'm looking at to see an issue. There was a decent size pool of oil that I needed to drain once I removed the carbs down to the rotary valve

 

[loungn14]

I assume from the research I have done that I need a new rotary valve cover as the very slight grooves will cause blow by? Is this correct? (is this also why I have a ton of oil in the engine?)

 

[mikidymac]

Rotary valve and cover look good to me. None of those grooves look to be more than normal wear.
For 1 thing you are using the wrong oil. No seadoo oil should ever be blue. The oil could be coming from either your inner crank seals or the rotary shaft seal. There has been some evidence found by members hear that suggest the wrong oil can cause the seals to leak and flushing and switching to the correct oil can solve some of the leaks.

 

[FaceDeAce]

No such thing as wrong oil color! Just be running TCW3 and go play.

 

[Luv2Camp]

No such thing as wrong oil color! Just be running TCW3 and go play.

Wrong. Tcw3 is 100% the incorrect oil to be using for this engine. It has to be a low ash api-tc rated oil.

 

[mikidymac]

Good to know. That is the only mention I have seen of approved blue oil. All the newer approved quicksilver I have seen is purple if I recall. Lets call it a rule of thumb that blue and green are wrong.

For me unless I see the bottle it came from I don't trust it. Drain, clean, flush and refill on any new to me ski.

And as Luv2camp sit to FaceMan DO NOT run TCW2 or 3 in a seadoo.

 

[FaceDeAce]

Hehehe, my apologies to all for the min-itroll, quickly caught by Luv2Camp. A twist into a debate/discussion over oil can get very long and opinionated! See how quickly it sparked?

My main point was - calling out an oil based on color is superficial and misleading. The colour tells you nothing about the oil.

Just ensure you know what you have for an engine and run the oil that you are most comfortable with.

 

[mikidymac]

Well said FaceMan. I guess the color is just a rule I use, your mileage may vary.

 

[Luv2Camp]

Good to know. That is the only mention I have seen of approved blue oil. All the newer approved quicksilver I have seen is purple if I recall. Lets call it a rule of thumb that blue and green are wrong.

For me unless I see the bottle it came from I don't trust it. Drain, clean, flush and refill on any new to me ski.

And as Luv2camp sit to FaceMan DO NOT run TCW2 or 3 in a seadoo.

I STAND CORRECTED. I was wrong. My oil is purple. We have enough of mis information that get an posted so I apologize for adding to the confusion. Just edited my post and removed the part about the color of the oil.

 

[FaceDeAce]

For us Canucks, pretty much all oil is blue. Chainsaw, weedwacker, dirtbike, boat, snowmobile, etc etc. Know what your engine needs for spec and read the jug you are going to buy. Btw - everyone knows that this "special" api-tc oil is the oldest spec out there and is actually just regular good old snowmobile oil - right?