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Gray fuel lines
- Thread starter ou812143
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CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Sure. Yup, the ethanol in gas over the years deteriorates the lines and sends gunk into your carbs, leaning out your engine. The fix is to
1) Replace ALL fuel lines
2) Clean/ Replace fuel selector knob
3) Clean out your carbs and the internal filters in them
If your ski is still running good, replace them now before the engine leans out too much and goes KABOOOM
1) Replace ALL fuel lines
2) Clean/ Replace fuel selector knob
3) Clean out your carbs and the internal filters in them
If your ski is still running good, replace them now before the engine leans out too much and goes KABOOOM
doberdann1019
New Member
The ethanol in gas eats away at the old fuel lines and clogs all the lines, filters and gets in your carbs. You are going to want to replace the grey lines if you have them.
I'm in the middle of doing it now on my 97 XP. It's not difficult, I used 1/4" and 5/16" auto fuel line, maybe 10 ft of each and 35 stainless steel hose clamps. Not sure how different it will be for your gtx.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?45862-1997-XP-Fuel-Line-Replacement
alcaidinho
New Member
does it matter if you use high pressure fuel line or just the regular fuel line?
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Regular is fine
FloridaBound0911
New Member
like JSG said, regular line will work just fine.
I just got some cheap auto grade black fuel line. On the 95 if I'm not mistaken I think you'll need around 20-25' of fuel line to get all of the lines changed. I purchased 20' on mine (I'm changing my lines on the 95 GTX too lol.) and I think you'll need 25 stainless steel screw clamps. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone else will come along and correct me. These guys are awesome at this kind of stuff.
20-25' Automotive grade fuel line.
25 stainless steel screw clamps.
Also, when you get in there to take off those factory clamps, take an awl and wedge up under the little lip where the clamp fastens and pry it off. I have tried cutting them off, pinching them with pliers, and various other things. All of them are a PITA, but this is the easiest way to get them off that I have found.
I just got some cheap auto grade black fuel line. On the 95 if I'm not mistaken I think you'll need around 20-25' of fuel line to get all of the lines changed. I purchased 20' on mine (I'm changing my lines on the 95 GTX too lol.) and I think you'll need 25 stainless steel screw clamps. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone else will come along and correct me. These guys are awesome at this kind of stuff.
20-25' Automotive grade fuel line.
25 stainless steel screw clamps.
Also, when you get in there to take off those factory clamps, take an awl and wedge up under the little lip where the clamp fastens and pry it off. I have tried cutting them off, pinching them with pliers, and various other things. All of them are a PITA, but this is the easiest way to get them off that I have found.
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Heres some advice tho about those clamps, they are a total BIOTCH. I stabbed my thumb pretty good with a screwdriver a few weeks ago trying to pry them off, probably shoulda got stiches, but I didnt. My message is, wear some decent gloves lol
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Here is a tip too, use oetiker clamp tool. You can get one side under the end lip and the other on one of the little humps. Squeeze and it will peel right off
bell99man
Active Member
Do one hose at a time to keep from getting them mixed up. Carb cleaner is the ticket. It may cause the rubber inside to swell a little so wait to put it back together. If it seems too snug put a little fuel oil on it. If that still doesn't work, order a new one. I had to on mine because the rubber was a bit stubborn, or dry rotting I think, and tore when I was trying to put back. It's got to seal or it will draw air through, run lean and make starting a pain. I used q-tips with a twisting motion in all the carb nipples but be careful not to jam that crud up into the carb body. If that happens you just have to soak it over night. Good luck.
kicker
Well-Known Member
Before trying to unloosen the clamps try just pulling the hose off the nipple, alot of time the hose is shrunken enough that the hose can be pulled off without undoing the clamp, might not work for all but will work for some. For some reason, I have the best luck with the fuel baffle using this method.
FloridaBound0911
New Member
Not mine man, some of the lines on my 95 were like rocks, I literally had to cut the end of the line open with a pocket knife and PEEL the line off of the nipple... It's a wonder I didn't stab myself lol.
bigJake
Well-Known Member
If you don't want to buy the tool, I've had good success just sticking a flat blade screwdriver under the "knuckle" on the okeiter clamp and giving it a twist. That usually pops it open pretty easily.
Also, while changing the hoses is a good time to install an inline fuel filter.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
no worries about the plastic, spray away
bigJake
Well-Known Member
I use one of the smalll long shank craftsman screwdrivers, get it inside the little loop and twist and wiggle it and it will loosen the clamp enough to slide it off on the continuous one. On the other ones that have teeth that kind of ratchet you can peel the outside layer off the teath ant it will pop open. There are two different clamps. As others have said use regular auto fuel line. You can use the fuel injection hose but you are just wasting money, this is not a high pressure system.
For the clamps I have always used the good ziptyes with the stainless lock. You can get them by the 50 or 100 from McMastercar.
For the clamps I have always used the good ziptyes with the stainless lock. You can get them by the 50 or 100 from McMastercar.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yip, and i almost never put clamps back on, good zipties and carry on. clamps are a pain, and i've never had a zippy come off (even the cheapo ones from the dolla' sto' but I do buy the good ones.
anthonygrato
New Member
Ok I know this has been discussed a thousand times. Nobody is mentioning that the new line has to be able to withstand the ethonal also. Or is all the new fuel ok for ethonal.
kicker
Well-Known Member
It is my understanding that since 2009 all fuel line produced had to be ethanol safe. As long as SAE-30R7 is printed on the hose, you will have ethanol safe fuel line.
SAE-30R7 is rated for Leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel, gasoline blends of ethanol (E10), E-85 and sour gas.
Has any used trident B1 line to replace their fuel lines? I have access to about 25 ft of this in 1/4" - and may have a possible 96 GTI project ski that will need the old lines replaced.
Here a link to a site with a write up.... the outer casing is not as thick as the old gray lines or some of the auto lines mentioned - but it is USCG rated as the previous lines which helps with possible on-water inspections here in PNW...
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Fuel_Hoses-Trident_Marine_B1_Fuel_Hose.html
Here a link to a site with a write up.... the outer casing is not as thick as the old gray lines or some of the auto lines mentioned - but it is USCG rated as the previous lines which helps with possible on-water inspections here in PNW...
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Fuel_Hoses-Trident_Marine_B1_Fuel_Hose.html
hobby_jebb
New Member
I used Tygon yellow fuel line on one ski, and some bluish/greenish on another. The Tygon I special ordered, and the blueish was from the local Carquest car. I did not use any black or high pressure line.
I also installed a simple inline fuel filter just before the carbs. My carb screens are not ever going to get plugged with fuel line debris again.
I also installed a simple inline fuel filter just before the carbs. My carb screens are not ever going to get plugged with fuel line debris again.
Can't answer the question in regards to DI having the same issue as I do not know where the high pressure pump is relative then other fuel components.
Early 2000's the lines started to disappear. I think around 04 they were suppose to be gone.
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