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got my engine back!!!, but have a couple concerns

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1800chall_tim

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delivery man came today with my fully rebuilt 787 from fullbore in MI. i was quick to open it up and do a quick inspection just a few minutes ago. first off, it is gloss black! now i have one black engine and one silver one.....not the end of the world i guess because if it holds up like they say it will, then in a year or two the other engine will also be black. now onto my concerns with this engine..... when the oil pump isn't bolted on is there supposed to be side play (about 1/16" either way) in the drive that sits in the mag cover. i know i could pull the mag cover to get a full understanding of this but i don't want to chip the fresh paint. secondly, in the other pics. you can see dried remnants of whatever they used around the inner crankshaft seals. what is this dried resin and is it something to worry about if is comes dislodged? and lastly i was wondering if the counterbalance shaft oil resivior is sealed completely? if the engine was on its side or upside down could the counterbalance oil get into the rest of the crankcase? it appears the lower end on the pto side has the same blue synthetic oil they used in the counterbalance shaft res. sorry about all the questions, in case you haven't noticed i tend to worry about things a little!!! i give a huge THANK YOU to all of you who have given me answers in the past year. and if my challenger could talk it would really thank you guys. much appreciated,TIM
 

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BTW (my counterbalance question), i do have the crankcase with a filler and drain for the counterbalance shaft. is there a seal in this area that could be compromised when putting the two halves back together? i knew i should have done it myself....
 
hey Tim, The play you feel in the oil pump drive is bc the oil pump is not installed. Once it is installed it will be ok.
Important! The black plastic drive coupler surrounds the nut that holds the flywheel onto the crank, so it is not a very precise or tight fit. The oil pump drive tang will center the drive coupler.
PRIOR to installing the oil pump onto the drive and Mag housing push synthetic grease like Molykote, Dow Corning 111, or Super lube grease (clear) it resembles dielectric grease. Push is between the plastic coupler and mag housing, this will also hold and help center the drive coupler when installing the oil pump...

I don`t not see what resin you are referring to. If you are talking about the excess sealant between the case halves, do not worry about it. It should be pliable and not cause any harm if a tiny piece does break loose.

counterbalance shaft res> there is a very small hole under the cylinder that was used to fill the cavity prior to the new case design of the 787.
You can drain the res by removing the drain plug, measuring the amount that was in there, and reinstalling the 30wt oil again...
or call the company and ask questions.
seals, I guess anything is possible, but I`m sure they did a decent job at aligning the halves.
I`m assuming you have a warranty, so you may be limited to what you can take apart, and it is there responsibilty if adding 30wt was part of the deal... but does not hurt to ask and verify...

Good Luck, bummer about the engine being black tho! I`m guessing that info was not mentioned up front...
 
paint it !!! another 10 bucks aint the end of the world -- lol , they do good work there though, and black paint is a good base coat, sand it a little and paint it
 
hey pale, thanks for the big relief about the oil pump drive coupler! and yes if i do any major disassembly it will most likely void the warranty. i'm starting to think the whitish grey resin dried in the case is excess sealant from putting the halves together. altho it is quite a bit i believe it won't cause harm. i'm still a little unclear about the 30w synthetic in the lower end, outside of the counterbalance res. i think i will drain it, put in the specific amount, wait a couple days then drain and measure it to see if oil is escaping the cavity. GRIZ400, i think i just might paint it! you're right it wouldn't take much right now to paint it. and yes i do believe they do good work. all parts i can see with a flashlight and a dentist mirror appear new. i like the large oil feeders on the rods. thanks,tim
 
did you paint that motor up tim ??? here is a paint color Duplicolor HPW101 Wheel silver , this was off another post here on seadooforums, i belive it was racer who posted color and pics, he said it was like 7-8 bucks a can like at pep boys -- maybe he will post pics he got ???
 
did you paint that motor up tim ??? here is a paint color Duplicolor HPW101 Wheel silver , this was off another post here on seadooforums, i belive it was racer who posted color and pics, he said it was like 7-8 bucks a can like at pep boys -- maybe he will post pics he got ???

Here's my engines, both painted with the Wheel silver, if you look at the waterboxes they are still the OEM silver, it's real damn close. I'd wipe you engine down with acetone and a lint free rag then hit it with some cheese cloth and spray and pray.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/wheelCoating/ HPW101 Silver is the color

Thanks Griz! You have a good memory.


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The counter balancer oil most likely did not leave that cavity, when they rebuilt your motor they also installed new seals on the counter balancer. When they line the crank and counterbalancer up it can only sit in the case one way. The seal on the crank and the counter balancer keep the oil in the cavity. The only time the oil leaves the cavity is when you seal has blown out. But you can just open the plug and drain it. Measure it and make sure the correct amount was in there. Do not overfill that cavity or you can blow a seal.
 
Griz400/Racerxxx, no i haven't painted it yet, but thanks for the info. the pics look great, looks to be a perfect match. i haven't logged on in a few days, but was going to ask if anyone had tried to match the factory paint color. who carries duplicolor? i have been slow at tackling this project because right now i am on a tight budget.here are some of the things i've rounded up so far. i've gotten the treadlocker, high temp permatex, good quality zip ties, hose clamps,copper spray for gaskets, 3/32 line (injection lines). i still need the larger oil lines, paint,couple gallons synthetic oil, and since it is the same engine going back in, i might hold off on the alignment tool until it is back in then see how it lines up. i've went through carbs and the fuel lines appear to be good. is there any thing i'm forgetting??? thanks,tim
 
you`ll still need the alignment tool Tim. the front mag housing hole is slotted, as is the rear bracket. the engines mounts themselves are also slotted so they can move left to right for the rear mounts and front to back for the front mount. The engine mag cover mount and the rear bracket do just the opposite. The rear bracket is slotted so the engine can be moved forward or rearward and the mag cover so it can go left or right... if you didn`t remove the mounts themselves then the only thing that remained was the depth of the engine and driveshaft engagement, and even that can move a little with the slop in the mounting holes...

so it is best that you align the engine so you know it is right, son`t want to eat up the splines on a shaft...
 
Just about any bigger chain autoparts store should carry the paint, if they carry duplicolor paints and if it's not with the spray paint check in the "tuner" section. By "tuner" I mean the kids who drive the rice burners (flat black spray painted Honda Civics etc...)with the Maxwell House coffee can mufflers on them to make them "go fast"(yeah, right).
 
pale, your right i shouldn't take shortcuts. i've gotta talk to my local dealer about renting one. i don't think they rent anything out but maybe i can talk them into it. maybe get it for cheap as long as they don't look on sbt site. Racer, i'm headed to o'riellys today,thanks tim
 
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