I have a 2000 GTI , do I have to do anything special to remove the glove box screws ? I'm trying to get at the fuel baffle and the direction says to remove the glove box. The four screws just turn on themselves and never draw out of where they are at. If I do remove them will I need anything new to put them back in ?
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Glove Box
- Thread starter dlowings
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The screws are just turning because of possible corrosion to the clips on the under side. Use a little pressure from under the box area or the screw head and it should turn out. A little penetrating oil wouldn't hurt either.
Karl
Karl
They should have a mark on the baffle tube, but I usually make them so I can save time and just reconnect them. Each line has a special job. Don't mix them up.
Karl
Karl
Yep, after I pulled the baffle out of the tank I seen the markings on the top. I should be able to put the hoses back right. After I put the tester probes in the female part of the float and tipped it upside down I got no reading. does that mean the baffle is bad ? I see no magnets but there is a screen, and I can see the slider inside that. I was reading another post and seen some models the magnets are inside the baffle, is that the case here... I don't see any mention of magnets in the manual. Does the baffle have to be in the tank to get a reading ? Out of the tank all I'm getting is zero.
You need to check the Pink and Pink/Black wire coming out of the baffle tube in the gas tank. The sending unit works off resistance. Pull the plug apart at the tank, and use an ohm meter to check for resistance between the two pink wires. The resistance will be different depending on how much fuel is in the fuel tank. If you get no resistance, remove the clamps off the sender, and pull the sending unit out of the fuel tank. Check the magnets on the float in the sending unit. To get to the float out, pop the bottom off and look for the 4 magnets on the float. If they are missing use a strong magnet to get them out of the tank bottom. If they are dirty clean them and re-insert it back in the baffle tube and check the wires again to check for readings of resistance depending on where the float is in the baffle tube. If still no reading of resistance replace the sender. If you get readings, check continuity of wiring to gauge. If all wiring checks out ok the gauge is bad. Keep me posted on your progress.
Karl
Karl
The screen is what has to come off the bottom. If you tip it back and forth you hear the float slide back and forth. Do this and test resistance at the 2 pink wires.
Karl
Karl
Will do... Thanks for all the help. I'm trying to get this thing fixed so I can take it out this week end. If all goes well I should be able to have it back together tomorrow... I picked up my Oil seal today and they said the have a baffle if needed, so it looks like one way or another I should have it done by Saturday :cheers: Thanks again for all the help. When I put the Oil and Fuel lines back together will I need to do anything about the air in the lines ?
well, its been a good news bad news day.. after all the dinking around with the fuel baffle I never did end up getting a reading from it. I went and picked up a new one and it worked as soon as I put it back in..... So that issue is off the list.... Then I focus back on the darn oil tank, I had also picked up a new grommet and thought I would put that one in. I felt up under the tank so that I could place the new one and noticed a burr on the opening... I thought I better pull the whole tank just to play it safe and found a crack moving from the drain opening to the side of the tank. :ack: I called the dealer and have a new one on the way, so bad news is I don't make it to the lake this week end 
The new one will be in on Wednesday so I'm looking forward to that. When I get the new one, Do I place the grommet in the tank and then insert the drain T valve. Or do I put the Grommet on the T valve and then insert the whole thing in the new tank. I know it sounds dumb but I don't want to end up cracking the new tank, it ended up being like 75 bucks.... And all that aside, do I need to be concerned about all this air in the oil line ?
The new one will be in on Wednesday so I'm looking forward to that. When I get the new one, Do I place the grommet in the tank and then insert the drain T valve. Or do I put the Grommet on the T valve and then insert the whole thing in the new tank. I know it sounds dumb but I don't want to end up cracking the new tank, it ended up being like 75 bucks.... And all that aside, do I need to be concerned about all this air in the oil line ?If it is the line going to the oil pump most definitley bleed the air out of it!
Put the grommet in the bottom of the tank first. Then insert the fitting into the grommet. use a little oil to lubricate the fitting and it will slip right in. If the oil lines are held up and not much oil comes out of the lines than air shouldn't be a concern. If the oil is low in the lines and air does get trapped than you need to bleed the lines. Let me know if you need the procedure for bleeding the lines to the oil pump.
Karl
Karl
I will give that a try as soon as my new tank comes in, thanks ... As far as air in the lines I kinda see the procedure in the manual but it looks very complex. Me and my fat hands always tent to get in the way of complex cramped work areas. :rofl: I did some research, and someone said you can pull the spark plugs and turn the engine over for a while to purges the system of air, is there any truth to that at all ?
NO...here is the process to do it correctly.
Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;
I attach the lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting that allows the oil to flow to the pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil.
If you still have any questions give me a shout. This should get you ready to go have fun in the water.
Karl
Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;
I attach the lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting that allows the oil to flow to the pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil.
If you still have any questions give me a shout. This should get you ready to go have fun in the water.
Karl
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