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Getting boat on Wednesday, things to do and check?

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ericbesso

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Hey Guys,

So I am getting the boat on wednesday and I am super excited! Had it mechanically inspected and it needed an exhsaust gasket and the intake valve was leaking oil so I got that fixed.

When I get it, I am planning on doing some maintenance and stuff before taking it out on the water. So far here is what I have planned:

- Emptying the oil and replacing with new
- Changing the oil filter
- checking for old gray lines and replacing as necessary
- changing the plug (plugs?)

What else should I be doing/looking for?

I have been reading and there keeps being a mention of a seal that could break and sink your boat. Which seal is this exactly? I should be getting a carbon one from what I have read? How hard is it to change? How much would it cost?

Also, the gauges do not work on this boat. I figured it wasnt a big deal since i got the boat pretty cheap and am willing to tinker with it. I will check the fuses first of course but what else could be causing this? Easily fixable?

This forum has been awesome so far and I look forward to being able to contribute more once i start doing all these things! Once it is running properly, it will be a stereo install next!
 
The only oil to change is the oil in the pump, no need to replace the oil in the DI system. No oil filter to change. Definitely put on new plugS. The carbon seal is the little carbon ring that goes around the driveshaft and is pressed against the stainless ring on the driveshaft by a rubber bellows. If this fails you will take on water. This is fairly easy to replace, but you have to take the pump off and remove the driveshaft. If you do this, take the opportunity to replace the rubber bellows and the rubber PTO boot while your at it. Those parts tend to wear out with age. It's about $10-$15 for each of those three parts if I recall correctly.
 
thank you for the reply! Excuse my noobiness! Are there any special tools required to remvoe the driveshaft? How long should I expect this to take? I am really freaked out that a small 10$ can cause my boat to sink lol and need to change this asap for peace of mind.
 
Congrats on the new boat... but the advice above, isn't exactly correct.

There is a filter in the hose, going down the the oil injection pump. If you are unsure of the oil that the last owner was using... then go ahead with your plan on draining the oil tank, replace the filter, and re-fill with a good API-TC oil.


That boat shouldn't have any gray hoses... but inspect what's there... and replace as needed.


The '95 models were the last with the seal type, that could fail and sink you. With that said... the newer carbon seal will leak by design. So... because of that... seadoo boats are not rated to be left in the water. Take it out for it's first ride... and if you don't have any real cavitation... then don't worry about the seals.


Other than that... just go out and enjoy.
 
The last owner told me he always used the SeaDoo BRP Oil and to make sure I did as well so I would guess that is not a problem. Is the filter still something I should be looking at changing?

As per the seal, OMFG that is such a load off my back I was really worried. So basically, just to make sure that I understand well, this boat does not have the Seal that can sink me? if it leaks the bilge pump and at worse manual bailer will save me enough to get back so i can change it?

Basically then, anything other than spark plugs I should be checking before taking it out on its first run? Just had am echanical inspection and a few things changed so mechanically it should be sound, but any other maintenance things I should be doing before taking it out?

Thanks a million Dr Honda
 
Oil: Since he was using BRP... then there isn't a reason to drain... as long as that's what you are going to use. 2-stroke oils do not mix all the time. So... stick with one brand. The seadoo engines need an API-TC oil. DO NOT use a TC-w3 oil!!!!!! (that's regular outboard oil)

As far as the filter... just look at it. If it's old and funky... then change it. If it's clean, and looks like it's been serviced... then continue to use it.


The Seal: Here's the deal. The old seal was a "Pack" with 2 seals, and a roller bearing. The bearing was greased, and the seals keep out the water. Well... some people would fail to maintain it... and the grease would wash out. Then... the bearing would rust up. Eventually... it will seize to the driveshaft, and when that happens... it will spin... ripping the fitting out of the hull, leaving you with a 2" hole in the boat.

Dont get me wrong... if maintained... it's a better seal.


The carbon seal in the 96 and newer seadoo, is simply a carbon ring, that is stationary... and it's pressed onto a stainless ring, that spins with the driveshaft. It's impossible for it to have a catastrophic failure. When they wear... they leak... and you will get cavitation. But... even when they are in good shape... they leak. (a little) The water that comes in, keeps the seal cool.

The drawback is... you can't run the engine long on the trailer. Without the lake water... the seal will overheat, and wear.



Finally... just give it a good once over, and look for lose clamps, fray wires, or any major leaks.
 
Wow man you are awesome!

Much appreciated feedback! too bad you arent close cause I would gladly take you out for some drinks and also pick your brain hahah
 
Wow man you are awesome!

Much appreciated feedback! too bad you arent close cause I would gladly take you out for some drinks and also pick your brain hahah
Yes sir! Tony knows a lot of stuff on these boats!

heck last night I was looking at houses in Pittsburgh to Johnstown...lol there goes the neighborhood! :lols:
 
Woops, I didn't know there was a filter on the DI system. Guess we both learned something :).

No harm, No foul. :thumbsup: Just an FYI... all the oil injection systems have a filter on the feed hose. On MOST ski's... you dont see it, since it's normally laying under something.
 
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