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fuel/oil ratio question
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timmyboy76
New Member
I'd bypass it. then mix 40/1...16oz oil=5gals. 50/1=6gals...:cheers:
Nate Surveyor
New Member
It is handy to know the effects of what you are doing...
If the injector is working properly, I think it is better than pre mix.
Injector is a variable rate system.
At WOT, it is probably injecting around 40:1
At idle, it is probably injecting 100:1.
I'm guessing these numbers, but you get the idea.
This means that there is not a bunch of UNBURNED oil in the crankcase, after an extended "no wake" zone, like if you pre mix it.
So, if you pre mix it, you will have alot more smoke, and more fouled plugs. However, you can be sure it gets oil. (This is the main incentive to pre mix)
I favor a properly working injection system, over pre mix.
I favor pre mix over a broken injection system!
For a while, I'd stay with BOTH, until I determine what I really knew what I wanted to doo.
IF you decide to go pre-mix, watch this:
If you use 50:1 ratio, then your fuel mix is THICKER, (than straigh gas) and runs through the carb slower, resulting in LEAN condition, so, you re jet it, for the thicker fuel. Then, if you change and run 40:1, it is thicker still, and can go lean again, so, you wind up re jetting for 40:1. Then, you go back to 50:1, and you are too rich!
And, if you run lean, with a pre mix system, then it will now be running TOO HOT, and LESS OIL. This can cook a motor. Think in terms of Revolutions per cc of oil, instead of mix ratio.
With pre mix, (and a lean condition) you have a high reving engine, with virtually no oil, with alot of heat.
My personal taste is pre mix for a while, while you make sure the injection system is going right, and then go back to injection. And, adding a bit of oil to the gas WITH the pre mix system (say to 110:1) then you can be sure everything gets lubed.
Anyway, you will get info on both sides of this issue, and I hope I have given you some to think about.
Nate
If the injector is working properly, I think it is better than pre mix.
Injector is a variable rate system.
At WOT, it is probably injecting around 40:1
At idle, it is probably injecting 100:1.
I'm guessing these numbers, but you get the idea.
This means that there is not a bunch of UNBURNED oil in the crankcase, after an extended "no wake" zone, like if you pre mix it.
So, if you pre mix it, you will have alot more smoke, and more fouled plugs. However, you can be sure it gets oil. (This is the main incentive to pre mix)
I favor a properly working injection system, over pre mix.
I favor pre mix over a broken injection system!
For a while, I'd stay with BOTH, until I determine what I really knew what I wanted to doo.
IF you decide to go pre-mix, watch this:
If you use 50:1 ratio, then your fuel mix is THICKER, (than straigh gas) and runs through the carb slower, resulting in LEAN condition, so, you re jet it, for the thicker fuel. Then, if you change and run 40:1, it is thicker still, and can go lean again, so, you wind up re jetting for 40:1. Then, you go back to 50:1, and you are too rich!
And, if you run lean, with a pre mix system, then it will now be running TOO HOT, and LESS OIL. This can cook a motor. Think in terms of Revolutions per cc of oil, instead of mix ratio.
With pre mix, (and a lean condition) you have a high reving engine, with virtually no oil, with alot of heat.
My personal taste is pre mix for a while, while you make sure the injection system is going right, and then go back to injection. And, adding a bit of oil to the gas WITH the pre mix system (say to 110:1) then you can be sure everything gets lubed.
Anyway, you will get info on both sides of this issue, and I hope I have given you some to think about.
Nate
timmyboy76
New Member
Put'n it in that perspective, you would think so, but I hav'n trouble pick'n it up.
...only 1/50 of the part/fluid running thru the jet is oil...?Nate Surveyor
New Member
Sea poo,
One way to be sure that it is injecting is to cut the line between the injector pump, and the intake manifold (or wherever yours hooks on) and (with pre mix in it) run it on the trailer, with deep enough water to NOT suck up trash, and manually turn the injector pump, and watch the increase in oil.
OR
you can manually turn it up, (Like above) without cutting the line, and see a bunch of smoke come up while running a little above an idle, while TIED to the trailer.
But, it is always a good idea to check the oil lines, to be SURE that they are in good condition. Probably better to REPLACE them. There are some funny metal crimp squish ties that secure the lines, between the pump and the manifold, to be SURE they don't come loose. I don't know if PROPERLY installed zip ties would work or not. I have not replaced my oil lines. Everything looks new on mine, and I inspect it regularly.
I doo not really know if there is another oil that is good enough for these machines. I know that they are kinda particular. CANNOT use regular 2 stroke boat oil.
High performance machines require better lube.
Maybe there is something better, and cheaper, but I don't know about it.
My memory says that mine has quicksilver full synthetic in it right now. It is an oil that is PWC rated. I don't have alot of hrs on mine, and it still has the original oil, and I have not added any. When you have a wife and 6 young 'uns, not alot of lake time this yr.
Nate
One way to be sure that it is injecting is to cut the line between the injector pump, and the intake manifold (or wherever yours hooks on) and (with pre mix in it) run it on the trailer, with deep enough water to NOT suck up trash, and manually turn the injector pump, and watch the increase in oil.
OR
you can manually turn it up, (Like above) without cutting the line, and see a bunch of smoke come up while running a little above an idle, while TIED to the trailer.
But, it is always a good idea to check the oil lines, to be SURE that they are in good condition. Probably better to REPLACE them. There are some funny metal crimp squish ties that secure the lines, between the pump and the manifold, to be SURE they don't come loose. I don't know if PROPERLY installed zip ties would work or not. I have not replaced my oil lines. Everything looks new on mine, and I inspect it regularly.
I doo not really know if there is another oil that is good enough for these machines. I know that they are kinda particular. CANNOT use regular 2 stroke boat oil.
High performance machines require better lube.
Maybe there is something better, and cheaper, but I don't know about it.
My memory says that mine has quicksilver full synthetic in it right now. It is an oil that is PWC rated. I don't have alot of hrs on mine, and it still has the original oil, and I have not added any. When you have a wife and 6 young 'uns, not alot of lake time this yr.
Nate
Just don't mix synthetic with mineral oil. I asked a guy at my shop what oil to use, and he sold me mineral oil. Found out that the ski was filled with synthetic, and the mix created a jello mixture that clogged my entire system.
Luckily, I noticed that the oil reservoir wasn't draining as fast as normal, so I started to premix.
Then I had to do a full drain, purge, and refill, as well as a priming of the system, to get it all out and get it running like it was supposed to.
So, long story short, use what the book tells you to use...
Luckily, I noticed that the oil reservoir wasn't draining as fast as normal, so I started to premix.
Then I had to do a full drain, purge, and refill, as well as a priming of the system, to get it all out and get it running like it was supposed to.
So, long story short, use what the book tells you to use...
Nate Surveyor
New Member
scooper:agree::agree::agree::agree::agree:
Nate
Nate
fireball451
New Member
Premix, 40:1 Amsoil Interceptor.
Would rather buy plugs @ $1.30 than a motor at $1500.00 (951 prices).
Lesson been learned......
more info:
http://server1.sbtontheweb.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13962
Would rather buy plugs @ $1.30 than a motor at $1500.00 (951 prices).
Lesson been learned......
more info:
http://server1.sbtontheweb.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13962
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