Fuel baffle?

[Toolanddiemaker]

Does anyone know if you can remove the fuel baffle and work on it when you have a full tank of gas? My fuel gauge isn't working and I watched a vid on the magnet falling out of the slide into the gas tank causing the prob. I actually intend on siphoning the gas out for winter storage but I'm being lazy. Any ideas thanks!

 

[Coastiejoe]

Some skis there is room without moving the tank. Others require moving the tank but leaving it in the ski. I have no idea about the boats. [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] will though.

There are 3 common issues.

Defective fuel baffle
Magnet issue
Blown integrated fuse.

You have to pull it no mater which if the three is your problem. All can be tested once pulled.

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Some skis there is room without moving the tank. Others require moving the tank but leaving it in the ski. I have no idea about the boats. [MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] will though.

There are 3 common issues.

Defective fuel baffle
Magnet issue
Blown integrated fuse.

You have to pull it no mater which if the three is your problem. All can be tested once pulled.

Cool thanks! It looks like its fairly long and the electrical box is right above it so I might need to move the tank to get to it. Thanks for the input though!

 

[LouDoo]

The only reason you would need to drain the gas would be if you need to move or remove the tank, which on a boat you shouldn't need too. Nine times out of ten the problem is the fuel float, replace the one you have with the new molded type. If a magnet has fallen off the old float, I wouldn't worry about it.

Lou

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

The only reason you would need to drain the gas would be if you need to move or remove the tank, which on a boat you shouldn't need too. Nine times out of ten the problem is the fuel float, replace the one you have with the new molded type. If a magnet has fallen off the old float, I wouldn't worry about it.

Lou

Ok thanks will do!

 

[USAF_Pride]

Ok thanks will do!

Test it before you pull it out. The shop manual should have the steps to test both the gauge and the sender. No reason to pull the sender if the gauge is bad.

See this thread, post #4.

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

Test it before you pull it out. The shop manual should have the steps to test both the gauge and the sender. No reason to pull the sender if the gauge is bad.

See this thread, post #4.

That's true thanks

 

[pdasimcoe]

I have the baffle out, it reads 3.3 when float is at top and 43 when the float is at bottom. I read it should be at 90 when float is at bottom, any thoughts, my fuel gauge reads empty...no needle movement

 

[Coastiejoe]

I have the baffle out, it reads 3.3 when float is at top and 43 when the float is at bottom. I read it should be at 90 when float is at bottom, any thoughts, my fuel gauge reads empty...no needle movement

The units do fail fairly often. Floats, magnets and the baffle itself...

One of the members rebuilds them, don't recall who.

I have not had one in my hand yet so I can't offer great advice. But many have and one will step in and help out I would think.

 

[LouDoo]

I would say that's close enough for government work. The fuel gauges are very inaccurate at best so if your getting a difference in readings top to bottom it's most likely working. Nine times out of ten when the gauge stops working, (shows empty) and the red light is on replacing the float with the newer white molded type will fix it.

Lou

 

[Coastiejoe]

I would say that's close enough for government work. The fuel gauges are very inaccurate at best so if your getting a difference in readings top to bottom it's most likely working. Nine times out of ten when the gauge stops working, (shows empty) and the red light is on replacing the float with the newer white molded type will fix it.

Lou

I will second that... With the newer skis a good float is important as a low fuel situation will put the ski in limp mode to conserve fuel. I do not know if this is the case with the boats.

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

The only reason you would need to drain the gas would be if you need to move or remove the tank, which on a boat you shouldn't need too. Nine times out of ten the problem is the fuel float, replace the one you have with the new molded type. If a magnet has fallen off the old float, I wouldn't worry about it.

Lou

Just got around to pulling out the fuel baffle today and took it apart to get a closer look,sure enough you were right the magnets fell out of the float! I replaced it with the molded type you suggested I know this thread is old but thanks for they advise!