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Fuel baffle.. broken?

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sony224422

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Today I finally got around to taking my fuel baffle out. Well, after getting it out, i noticed that the float and the bottom piece, (not sure what is are still in the tank) I got the float out but not the other piece. Does this mean the thing is broken, or can i reattach it somehow. Or, can i use it still as a fuel pick up while i order a new one. Also, what year skis fuel baffle will fit in mine? I looks like any of them would fit but i want to make sure. I found a good used one from a 96 gsx for $50 so if that fits i'd get that. Unless i can fix mine. Thanks
 
Well, the bottom pc is a pc of plastic, that snaps on. It keeps the float in. And, it has a screen filter in it.

You will either need to fish this pc out of the tank, or replace the baffle.

There is some sort of glue that you can use to re-assemble it, but I can't think of it right now. You could use a soldiering gun, and a pc of zip tie, and weld the zip tie across the bottom to hold it together.

I'd try to fix it, but you can buy another one.

Nate
 
Nate Surveyor said:
Well, the bottom pc is a pc of plastic, that snaps on. It keeps the float in. And, it has a screen filter in it.

You will either need to fish this pc out of the tank, or replace the baffle.

There is some sort of glue that you can use to re-assemble it, but I can't think of it right now. You could use a soldiering gun, and a pc of zip tie, and weld the zip tie across the bottom to hold it together.

I'd try to fix it, but you can buy another one.

Nate
Click to expand...

Ahhh i see i see. So the float is "free floating" if you will in there. My float is full of gas.. i guess i need to drill a hole in it and drain it and then seal it back up. I will see if i can get that little peice back out but i don't think i can. Is the screen on the little piece of plastic?
 
The float is a piece of solid foam type of material. If you drill it, it won't drain...it is kinda like a small sponge when it comes to gas. The small cap that holds the float on, has a plastic screen mesh that holds the float in and filters large pieces that could plug the fuel system check on e-bay for a float for the baffle. I have heard other members buy them for like $15.00. The baffle assy. is like $200.00.

Karl
 
It is just a thought, but you can take a pc of cork, or Styrofoam and glue the magnet to it, and probably get it. (make your own float) You would probably have to seal it with epoxy glue. But, it is just a thought. And it might "waterlog" with gas eventually.

Karl is right about the bottom pc to the baffle. Dig 'er out, so she does not cause trouble. I was not saying to leave the screen filter off. But to say that if you replaced the whole baffle, you might get away with leaving it in the tank.

I say get the old one out, so nothing bad can happen.

N
 
You need to get the old one out...to save you a bunch of money. If it is broken off and won't stay on the baffle tube, use 2 part quick dry epoxy, from Walmarts and epoxy it in place...don't try the cork thing...it will never fit or work right...save it for you fishing outing.:ack: :rofl:

Karl
 
kustomkarl said:
You need to get the old one out...to save you a bunch of money. If it is broken off and won't stay on the baffle tube, use 2 part quick dry epoxy, from Walmarts and epoxy it in place...don't try the cork thing...it will never fit or work right...save it for you fishing outing.:ack: :rofl:

Karl
Click to expand...

So, i can't reuse my old float? I did actually just see a new float on ebay for $15.. i will have to see if i can fish out the little plastic piece for the bottom though.
 
Here is how to test it ....be careful with gas...add gas into a cup...drop float in it ...if it sinks it's garbage. If you float it in water it will float, but your seadoo runs on gas...not water..that's because water is heavier than gas.

Karl
 
I just did the same thing, and thought the same way as you. I figured I would drill it out, blow it out, and glue the hole up, but as mentioned, the float is a dense foam, and over time (apparently around 10 years) it absorbs enough fuel to stop floating. Anyway, drilled into it and it pretty much broke into pieces in my hand. Then I could actually squeeze it and force fuel out of the foam.

The ebay one I got was a shinier plastic that will not absorb at all. $20 shipped, and has been working great.
 
scooper77515 said:
I just did the same thing, and thought the same way as you. I figured I would drill it out, blow it out, and glue the hole up, but as mentioned, the float is a dense foam, and over time (apparently around 10 years) it absorbs enough fuel to stop floating. Anyway, drilled into it and it pretty much broke into pieces in my hand. Then I could actually squeeze it and force fuel out of the foam.

The ebay one I got was a shinier plastic that will not absorb at all. $20 shipped, and has been working great.
Click to expand...

Always such great advise on here. I actually just read thru the seadoo manual and it looks like slidding the tank forward is easier than trying to move all the stuff out of the way heh.

But, So to recap.. my float sinks so i will get the new one on ebay. Then i will fish out the bottom piece from my tank. I will then just put the float inside there.. does it hook to anything or is it free floating in there? After that i will epoxy the bottom piece back on and reinstall it.

Can i put a magnet inside the baffle while its out to test it? I don't want to hurt the circuit board at all
 
What I would do is pull the baffle and insert the old float. temporarily attach the bottom. Connect the wire plug connector and attach the lanyard. Now with the baffle in your hand tip in you hand and see if the guage works. If it works order the new float re assemble it and glue the bottom back on and let it rip...

Karl
 
kustomkarl said:
What I would do is pull the baffle and insert the old float. temporarily attach the bottom. Connect the wire plug connector and attach the lanyard. Now with the baffle in your hand tip in you hand and see if the guage works. If it works order the new float re assemble it and glue the bottom back on and let it rip...

Karl
Click to expand...

Lol this would be much easier. Can i just tip it sideways so the float is like rolling down the sides and stuff? and the float just litterally floats in there.. its not attached at all? just self contained in there?
 
sony224422 said:
Lol this would be much easier. Can i just tip it sideways so the float is like rolling down the sides and stuff? and the float just litterally floats in there.. its not attached at all? just self contained in there?
Click to expand...

The float is just set inside the baffle. The bottom is the only thing that holds it in. The float only fits in one way...and yes the little magnets just make contact to the electronics inside. It is a real simple guage. If it still doesn't work unplug the connector from the baffle and with a multi meter set to ohms, put each probe inside each wire of the connector plug and as the float moves up or down it will indicate in ohms. If you get no reading, the float magnets are bad of the baffle itself is bad. To test the guage just put a jumper wire in the connector going to the guage and attach the lanyard or just hit the stop/start button(no lanyard attached) and the guage will go to full.

Karl
 
Really, if you want to save a bunch of money, you could put water in the gas tank, and then it would float, as water is denser than gas.

But, the down side is they won't start good....

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

N
 
Im not sure if my gauge works or if im jumping the right wires..

I am using the two pinks that connect to the baffle.. is this correct? If so im getting no reading..
 
sony224422 said:
Im not sure if my gauge works or if im jumping the right wires..

I am using the two pinks that connect to the baffle.. is this correct? If so im getting no reading..
Click to expand...

update! sucess. I have found that if you plug the oil sensor and fuel sensor into eachother the guage will work (to test it) yay my gauge works!
 
robin savell lloyd said:
Intresting could you give a litle more detail? :cheers:
Click to expand...

Surely... take the oil sensors (blue wires i believe) and unplug them. Unplug your fuel baffle as well. You will end up with 4 plugs, two female and 2 male. They are opposites, IE, theres a male end on one of the sensors and a female end on the other sensor. I took the two plugs coming from the wiring loom and plugged them into eachother and got a "full" tank reading on my gauge, but low oil warning (obviously since its unplugged) When unplugged and replugged into eachothers correct positions, i do not get the low oil warning but i also have no gauge. So my LCD part of my gauge is working, just need to cut open the baffle and re solder the connections, and get a new float. Should be around $20 to fix if you have the nessecary tools described in the other thread. Beats spending $150 + shipping in my book. Also, if the mods want they can add this to the other thread..
 
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