Fogging: run engine& fog or shoot into open injectors??

[renomaan]

So I know by now everyone has beat this to death but I have come accross 2 recommended fogging methods:

1) as mentioned in the forum and in the shop manual: pull the injector rail, pull the injectors and shoot the fogging into the cylinders then inspect orings reassemble and fog the throttle body while holding it open.

2) a dealer said to run the engine, spray the fogging into the intake until the engine fouls out-then replace your sparkplugs in the spring. I also saw a prev post mentioning fogging till it dies out.

SO WHICH IS IT?? BOTH WORK? ONE IS EASIER? ONE IS MORE THOROUGH?

Thx in advance-Al in PA

 

[seadoosnipe]

Over done.....

This is probably over done. The reason you fog your engine is to create a moisture barrier inside the engine. This way, you'll slow the oxidation (rust) process.

This process has a different affect depending on where you live. If you live in an area that is low in humidity, then you'll need less fogging than someone who lives, say where I live, along the gulf coast where relative humidity is constantly in the 80 to 100% range.

I would not pull the fuel rails on an injected engine. I think this is overkill. If you remove the flame arrestor and spray through the throttle body till the engine begins to choke, ease up, spray again, you should be fine.

I personally use a white lithium grease, that I spray through my intake and down into my spark plug holes. That's if I'm not going to run it. But in the south, it only freezes maybe 3 or 4 times a year. I don't use anti-freeze because I keep a portable, ceramic heater in the back of my engine compartment (1997 Challenger). This keeps the humidity at bay also. When I do this, the heat selection is at minimum, about 40*F and the engine bay divider tray is removed and the hood cover is left cracked open to prevent flammable vapors from building. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT ANYONE DO THIS. I have been a mechanic for over 35 years and know what to look for and how to prepare my engine compartment to keep it from building flammable vapors.

If you are thinking about keeping your engine compartment warm through the coldest of the winter months, I would say use a 75 watt light bulb, low to the engine block with a piece of aluminum foil to help shield it. This way, the most important part of the engine (the block) is protected from freezing. The anti freeze is going to do it's job. If you want added protection, then the light buld will suffice. Please, be careful with adding heat to your ski or boat because of the explosive conditions that may be present.:cheers:

 

[scooper77515]

Snipe...Thanks for posting about FREEZING conditions...I never thought about that. Yes, it freezes 2-3 times a year here, but I would have never thought about protecting the boat from it.

So, to not sound too dumb, what parts of the engine are at risk, and why? Doesn't most of the water leave the system when you run it out of the water for a few seconds? Is there enough in there to expand and crack the engine, and if so, what parts of the engine?

I found a gallon of stuff to run with the hose that coats the internal water passages to reduce rusting. Is that stuff worth the money?

I am looking at a 3 month set up, and would like it to run when I pull it out in the spring.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Water pockets...?

Yes Scooper, the 2 strokes run a TLCS (total loss cooling system). There are areas that may hold a little water, but not much. Because we normally associate a "busted block" with the idea that the engine cooling system is full, like a radiator and isn't protected. When the water freezes, it expands. With the waters expansion (takes 8 hours at just below 32*F to freeze a block solid) comes pressure against the block till it either pops out a freeze plug or cracks the block.......

But, like you said, we don't hold any real liquids in the block of our Rotax. If expansion was to occur, you would think there is enough area to expand without cracking. But if the water was at the bottom of the cylinder and is just laying in a "dead pocket", then maybe it can put pressure against the side to the point it cracks. Not really sure ......even the exhaust doesn't fill with water. At the bottom of our cylinders, there is a drain for both of them, that "t" into each other as they drain.........so, your guess is as good as mine.
:cheers: