Mechanicallychallenged
Member
I have a 717 with a stuck fly wheel, I tried puller on it and it won’t come off, is it OK to use a little heat on it or is there seals that may melt?
Or is there a better option
Or is there a better option
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Flywheel
- Thread starter Mechanicallychallenged
- Start date
- Status
AKnarrowback
Well-Known Member
A little heat is OK. Have the puller on and tightened down so you have tension built up. At this point, before the heat, you can take a hammer and give a tap on the big flywheel bolt that is pushing against the crank end. Not a hard hit, but a short, sharp tap to send a shock into everything and that might be enough to pop it off. Give it a tap and see if the puller will tighten down any more, do this a couple of times, tap with tension. If things are still not letting loose then leave the puller in place with tension and heat the flywheel a little, try the tap again. You want to use as little heat as possible. DO NOT slam the hammer with any muscle, just a gentle swing as straight into the puller as you can.
Mechanicallychallenged
Member
Thank you for the detailed response, I will try the tapping first I’m trying to get it off without pulling motor
Okay,,,why are you pulling the flywheel if the motor is in the hull?,,,put tension on the puller,,,heat the flywheel,,,buy the loktite website,,,you need enough heat to melt the red loktite,,,assuming someone put on a lot,,,be carefull with the shock tap,,,it can deform the head of the puller bolt and your socket will not go back on.
Mechanicallychallenged
Member
Was having trouble with it running the last time I had it out on the lake. Wouldn’t do over a. Few MPH so I changed gray lines and rebuilt carbs. Now it won’t start.
put a bit of gas in it the first time it fired up. Tried Priming it again and it wouldn’t fire after several attempts it started backfiring both through the carburetor and the muffler.
Had a guy look at it and he says it’s the timing and that is the flywheel has a crack in it. he tried to get the fly wheel off and can’t without pulling the motor.
Have never seen a cracked fly wheel ever,,,could be the rotary valve,,check that timing,,could be brass gear has slipped on the crank,,,then you would need to pull the motor,,.check your spark as well,,,check the easy stuff,,,battery up to snuff,,,load tested,,,did it run before you did the fuel lines and carb?
Mechanicallychallenged
Member
That’s what I would think too. But why wouldn’t it not try to start if I primed it. Even after sitting for a day ?
AKnarrowback
Well-Known Member
DO NOT pull the flywheel. Look at the fuel system.
Could be flooded. That would also explain the backfire.
Pull the sparkplugs and check for spark.
Mechanicallychallenged
Member
Could be flooded. That would also explain the backfire.
I did get it to start on the trailer if I give it throttle it backfires through the carburetor and dies
I did not pull the flywheel!
I did get it to start on the trailer if I give it throttle it backfires through the carburetor and dies
Mechanicallychallenged
Member
I did not pull the fly wheel but I did get it to start on the trailer, it’ll Idol a little bit if I give it Throttle it backfires through the carb and dies
Mechanicallychallenged
Member
Explain please
Dennis weimer
New Member
so this guy says he needed maybe a carb job because his 1995 587 was backfiring. did one. still backfiring. took off the mag side cover and descovered the big crank nut had backed off. (this thing would still run if you can believe that) you'll know if the nut if lose . do a timming check with a timming light before pulling the flywheel. I'd concentrate on fuel system.
Attachments
Poormanracing
Active Member
Flooded motor shut the fuel off then pull the plugs put a couple rags over spark plug holes put your plug caps on the grounding post so you don't explode.pump out by turning motor with starter with the throttle wide open.do that at 30 second intervals so starter and wires don't get hot and go boom.then with the fuel valve still off put plugs back in hold wide open try and start it.keep holding wide open till it runs.make sure your flame arrestor screen is still on
Poormanracing
Active Member
And if you insist on taking fly wheel off.take pto plug out bring piston to tdc.back off piston about 10 15 degrees.then get yourself some rope and stuff it into the plug hole.so you can't stuff anymore.that will hold the crank from moving.the trick is trying to get crank to stay as you tighten your puller.i wouldn't use an impact if it's on that tight the haring will break the magnets use a breaker bar and a pipe.
Mechanicallychallenged
Member
ThAnk you for the detailed response it is greatly appreciated, I got it to fire up a few times and dies sometimes it backfires through the carb. I do not have the flame arrestor on.
im not trying to pull flywheel at all. Last resort.
Any idea why it would act this way ?
Poormanracing
Active Member
Could be a couple things is there an excessive amount of fuel comming out of carb or carbs.it could be loaded up in the crankcase and it's firing off and flashing thru the rotary valve.also what can cause a misfire is the 4 plug connector on some 717 has a ground wire going to mag cover and it could be not grounding.rotary valve timing could be off or the brass gear could be sheared and valve not spinning
- Status
