Flushing w/ pump and fogging.

[GotTheRuns]

Good morning, all...

I can't apologize enough for having to ask this question. It is evident that this topic has been beaten up enough... but I've combed through the forum and have yet to find an answer to my specific question.

I have a '99 Challenger w/ Twin Rotax engines. This is my first year of ownership and have decided to tackle the winterizing project myself. After researching the topic, it seems as though pumping RV antifreeze through the hose intake ports (back of boat) may be the simplest method of flushing the water out and the antifreeze in. For those of you who are familiar with this method, how/when are you fogging the engines?

My hope was to spray the fogging oil into each air intake box, until the engines choke out. I would then follow this up with spraying the fogging oil directly into the top of the cylinders. Doing this prior to flushing would be counter productive to fogging, correct? And doing this after flushing would be counter productive to flushing, correct?

What am I missing here?

Thank you for your time and input.

 

[GotTheRuns]

My apologies, folks. I may have incorrectly assumed that, after turning off the pump, that the running engine would continue to evacuate the RV antifreeze that was pumped into it. Apparently, this is not the case.

To answer my own question...

Start the engine.
Start the pump (to push the rv antifreeze completely through the system).
Stop the pump.
Apply fogging oil to the air box (to choke the engine out).

The entire process should take no more than 2 minutes per engine.

If this is wrong... please feel free to stop me!
Thank you.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If you apply the fogging at such a rate that it stalls the engine, just run the pump off the moment it stalls. That is what I would do. This will keep the fogging oil within the cylinders as well as the system full of you RV fluid..

 

[Dr Honda]

I don't use a pump. Here's what I do...

1) I simply pull the intake hose off the head of the engine, and stick on a hose, with a funnel. Then, I slowly pour in 1/2 gal of the RV antifreeze into the engine.

2) start the engine, and at an idel... hose the airbox with fogging oil. (This doesn't allways kill the engine)

3) Pull the sparkplugs, and shoot fogging oil in the holes. (then replace the plugs)

Note: do not start the engine again, or you will have to re-fog.

4) Pull the nozzle off the pump, and check/change the oil in the pump. (reassemble)

5) hose off all metal parts with storage oil. (silicon oil works well)


And that's it.

AND... for the guys who want to dispute things...

A) I've been doing it this way (on Seadoo's) for +15 years, and I never had an issue. Yes... it's best to really get it into the system... but when it comes down to it... the only "Critical" place, is the water that sits in the Cyl's. Any water in the pipe, or waterbox has room to expand if it freezes. Also... by fogging the engine after you put in the antifreeze... the engine pressure will push out a lot of liquid in the exhaust.

B) Remember to put a good dose of Marine Stay-Bil in the fuel on your last trip out. You need to have it pumped into the carbs before you winterize. I run it all year long to keep water and alcohol issues at bay.


That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

 

[Coastiejoe]

When I had my Polris skis I did it just like Doc explained above.

I would start to use fuel stabilizer about a month or two before I thought my season would end. Reason why,,, in Ohio you just never knew when winter would suddenly be right on top of you. I have had a few seasons where I could not get out from mid-August and later...

 

[GotTheRuns]

All went as planned, folks! I couldn't be happier with how the process went. Thank you for your feedback!

 

[Dr Honda]

When I had my Polris skis I did it just like Doc explained above.

I would start to use fuel stabilizer about a month or two before I thought my season would end. Reason why,,, in Ohio you just never knew when winter would suddenly be right on top of you. I have had a few seasons where I could not get out from mid-August and later...

I can't tell you how many times now (living in Pitt PA) I will literally, run out to wal-mart to get RV anti-freeze, at 9 PM... then start working on the boat in the dark... because the news will say... "Tonight will be are fist HARD freeze of the year".

With the ski's... I will throw a small shop light in the engine compartment, and work on them the next day.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I have done the shop light trick myself. LOL. You can NOT trust the weather up there. It does what it wants when it wants to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bigJake]

I don't use a pump. Here's what I do...

1) I simply pull the intake hose off the head of the engine, and stick on a hose, with a funnel. Then, I slowly pour in 1/2 gal of the RV antifreeze into the engine.

2) start the engine, and at an idel... hose the airbox with fogging oil. (This doesn't allways kill the engine)

3) Pull the sparkplugs, and shoot fogging oil in the holes. (then replace the plugs)

Note: do not start the engine again, or you will have to re-fog.

4) Pull the nozzle off the pump, and check/change the oil in the pump. (reassemble)

5) hose off all metal parts with storage oil. (silicon oil works well)


And that's it.

AND... for the guys who want to dispute things...

A) I've been doing it this way (on Seadoo's) for +15 years, and I never had an issue. Yes... it's best to really get it into the system... but when it comes down to it... the only "Critical" place, is the water that sits in the Cyl's. Any water in the pipe, or waterbox has room to expand if it freezes. Also... by fogging the engine after you put in the antifreeze... the engine pressure will push out a lot of liquid in the exhaust.

B) Remember to put a good dose of Marine Stay-Bil in the fuel on your last trip out. You need to have it pumped into the carbs before you winterize. I run it all year long to keep water and alcohol issues at bay.


That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

I do pretty much the same thing except I've been disconnecting the input line from the back of the ski (which is a real pain in the butt to reach) and then funnel into it, because I keep forgetting to buy an extra section of hose to attach to the head of the engine. What is the size of that hose on a 787 ( I can't seem to find it in the manual) so I can pick up a section before heading up to the lake to winterize?

 

[Dr Honda]

As I recall... My custom winterizing tool (funnel, with a hose shoved on the end) has a 1/2 hose. If you go up to a 5/8"... it's easier to push on... but it will leak, and/or fall off once it gets wet. the 1/2" hose pushes on tight, and then you don't need a clamp when you are just pouring in the anti-freeze.

 

[bigJake]

As I recall... My custom winterizing tool (funnel, with a hose shoved on the end) has a 1/2 hose. If you go up to a 5/8"... it's easier to push on... but it will leak, and/or fall off once it gets wet. the 1/2" hose pushes on tight, and then you don't need a clamp when you are just pouring in the anti-freeze.

Thanks Tony, I thought it was 1/2" from memory but wasn't positive.